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Ajmngn



Member Since: 25 May 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black
JXB Performance Driveshaft Carrier Upgrade

So, it appears that I might be the first on the forum to upgrade their propshaft/driveshaft carrier using the JXB Performance Driveshaft Carrier. If not the first to upgrade, I’m certainly the first to make a post about it as can’t find anything else on this forum.

If anyone is wondering what I’m on about, the JXB carrier is a bespoke solution that will sit around the bearing on the propshaft, and aims to reduce excess movement of the shaft through a more robust carrier, whilst providing better damping to minimise vibration. Installation does not require the propshaft to be removed, and the carrier can be fitted in about 90 mins with some basic tools. Here it is installed on my truck:



I bought my carrier from here:
https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/pro...-0-v8.html

Fitting requires you to drop (not disconnect) the exhaust. You do this by unbolting the 2 rear and single centre exhaust brackets to allow the exhaust to hang lower. I supported mine with some blocks of wood so as not to put much stress on it. Then, you can unscrew and remove the heat shield that prevents you getting to the carrier. If you don’t drop the exhaust, you won’t be able to remove the heat shield and get to the carrier to do the work.

Once this prelim work is done you can then unbolt the existing carrier. Then, use an angle grinder or hacksaw to cut away the carrier. Once done, cut away the rubber from the bearing to release it, then trim the rubber down on the existing bearing to get a flush(ish) surface.

Once done, installation is super easy. Bolt the new JXB carrier onto the existing bearing using a 5mm allen, then mount the carrier onto the existing studs in the L322 body using the JXB mounting kit. There’s a video on their website for an L405 which is basically the same process.

For me personally, my bearing is shot. I couldn’t ascertain this until I’d managed to get to it and cut it away from the rubber so it could spin independently of the shaft. It’s definitely well beyond its useful life and is certainly causing the droning sound I can hear when driving. I am happy that these bearings can indeed be replaced without needing to buy a new propshaft. Demonstration video of this is here:
?si=JTPvF40Vi317eIar
Replacement bearing is here:
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/range-rover-l322-...e-bearing/

Once I have the replacement bearing, I’ll just cut the new carrier off it, trim back the rubber, and then get the new bearing mounted with my JXB carrier. That should last me a long time and return my driveline noise and vibration to be smooth as butter again!

If you have questions on this just shout. I’m no expert and have no affiliation with JXB or Darkside Developments, but all the info is out there should you care to look. Finally, just a few thoughts in anticipation of the inevitable comebacks:

1. why didn’t I just buy the Terrafirma carrier and fit that?
- I want to modify my truck and am happy spending money on good aftermarket parts to do so. I also like experimenting. I’ve done this with using Superpro polyurethane bushes on my front suspension arms (no one else seems to have done this on their L322 who has posted as such, yet), and I am happy to try this JXB carrier out too. It seems like a better solution and means significantly less movement other than pure rotation in the driveline.
2. If I’m willing to spend £282 on just a propshaft carrier, why not just buy a replacement OEM propshaft like a GKN for £452 from Advanced Factors?
- as above, I’m into trying new things and experimenting with mods. I know a lot of ppl will say there’s nothing wrong with the GKN prop and they’re almost certainly correct. However, there’s also nothing wrong with my 120k mile LR original prop either; it’s just the bearing that needs changing. I’m happy that if I can get the bearing off and replace it with new, I can do that process as many times as is needed in the future for very little cost. And, I’ll have a superior bearing carrier to hold it in that should perform significantly better than the stock carrier. So significantly cheaper in the long run. Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Post #689548 31st Mar 2024 8:49pm
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Dolphinboy



Member Since: 07 Dec 2009
Location: Bristol
Posts: 3161

United Kingdom 2015 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Baltic Blue

great write up and possibly timely for me. I have just noticed a very slight vibration through the dvr seat on my 130k miler. What were your symptoms before fixing?

Post #689566 1st Apr 2024 10:29am
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Ajmngn



Member Since: 25 May 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

I’ve noticed two symptoms that are related but not the same.

1. I’ve been getting a droning noise that directly relates to vehicle speed. It happens in gear and also in neutral so definitely driveline and not engine/gearbox. I narrowed it down to under the centre armrest area so assumed it was the bearing. When installing the JXB I was able to get to the point where I could spin the bearing freely as the old carrier and rubber damping was removed. My bearing is absolutely dead: it’s loose, and is no longer smooth to spin. One can never be 100% with these things but I’d be amazed if this wasn’t the source of the droning sound.
2. I also have been experiencing intermittent vibration through the cabin. I can feel it through my seat and also the steering wheel. I’ve had the wheel balance checked and def not that. It was intermittent as it happened most commonly on a long steady cruise. It would sometimes be fine and smooth, and then the vibration would start. I think it was the prop moving excessively in the old carrier as the rubber had perished too far to hold it steady. It makes sense that this happens on a steady cruise as, once it gets going it would keep going. Whereas on a town drive where always speeding up and slowing down, there wouldn’t be a chance for the wobble to get going. I am optimistic that a new OEM bearing carrier would’ve solved this. However, I am more optimistic that the JXB solution would never allow this to happen as the rubber in the carrier is significantly more robust.

I hope this helps and good luck sorting yours… Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Post #689590 1st Apr 2024 1:57pm
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Ajmngn



Member Since: 25 May 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

One final post to close this down from my side: I’ve now managed to replace the propshaft bearing. And, great news, I now have a silent running and very smooth driveline again.

If you wish to replace your own propshaft bearing, this is certainly achievable on the driveway. I managed to remove my propshaft just using my vehicle ramps on the rear wheels to get enough access underneath to work and not needing to remove the wheels either.

Once the exhaust is dropped down and heat shields removed (I advise also doing the front shield for better access to transfer case end of shaft), you just need to undo the 6 T12 Torx bolts on each end of the prop. I was able to get to all 6 using my ratchet set without needing to rotate the prop. Fiddly for the two least accessible bolts on the top, but easily achievable with patience.

With the prop off the vehicle, the hardest bit was getting the prop split into two pieces. I had to apply a lot of heat and then use a lump hammer and large punch to get the shaft to split. You will unlikely be able to achieve this without a very sturdy bench vice. However, once the prop was split it was easy to get the old bearing removed and new one installed.

I cut my bearing out of the rubber on the new carrier, mounted it within the JXB carrier and got everything installed back on the vehicle. Once complete, a thorough test drive both cross country and at healthy motorway speed confirmed no more droning and thankfully, no more vibration. If anything, the truck has never driven better in my ownership as very, very smooth driveline now, especially when coming off or going back on the power. I can only attribute that to the new bearing and the really nice JXB Carrier solution. I really would recommend this option of new bearing annd JXB carrier instead of wasting twice the money on a new prop.

For clarity, the bearing used was a Terrafirma TF2428. It seems good quality and only £25. Even if it only lasts me 20k miles, I can now replace for another £25 and reckon I could do the whole thing in 90 mins without rushing, now that my prop splines have been cleaned and greased!! Future me will almost certainly thank me for that if/when the time comes! Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Post #690777 16th Apr 2024 11:21pm
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BCrover



Member Since: 02 Aug 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2

2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

Great post, just ordered mine. Fingers crossed the bearing is good. Were you able to spin the bearing once cut away down the oem rubber in the carrier?

Post #698568 21st Aug 2024 11:35pm
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Ajmngn



Member Since: 25 May 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

Yes, the bearing will almost certainly still spin on prop shaft after you cut away the metal frame and trim back the rubber surround ready to fit the JXB. It’s at this point that you need to pay significant attention to the bearing. Spin it on the prop and if it is anything less than buttery smooth then you will likely need to replace the bearing too by splitting the prop. Any roughness or feeling like there is even the slightest of grinding and the bearing has basically failed and should be replaced.

My bearing was beyond shot and it must’ve reached that stage very quickly as my symptoms came on within about 1000 miles of driving. My new bearing was extremely smooth and the difference in feel was immediately obvious in comparison to the old.

Good luck with fitment and fingers crossed your current bearing has life left in it yet! Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Post #698646 22nd Aug 2024 8:47pm
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BCrover



Member Since: 02 Aug 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2

2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

ok thanks for the reply. I will have a bearing on hand I guess, and if the one in there is not perfect I will replace. Did you use new bolts for the driveshaft or re-use the existing ones?

Post #698647 22nd Aug 2024 8:59pm
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Ajmngn



Member Since: 25 May 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Santorini Black

No reason why driveshaft bolts can’t be reused as not high-torque stretch bolts. Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Post #698761 24th Aug 2024 11:26am
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