Hi
I recently replaced the stock 20 inch low profile wheels on my range rover sport 2008 L320 V8 supercharged with a beautiful set of black MO1882 18 inch compomotive wheels as I cracked a low profile rim on the rough roads where I live (tropical hinterland near Byron Bay NSW Australia).
The MO1882 wheels are fantastic, but to fit the wheels I had to remove the brake calliper counterweights as the space is so tight and the calipers huge on the supercharged.
Now the front brakes squeal terribly when slowly braking to stop in traffic in town, intersections, pedestrian crossings, parking etc. No Problem slowing from higher speeds.
Obviously the counter weights are there to prevent this (which is annoying) but not enough room to put them back.
Have you heard of this problem before?
Is there a solution?
Not an option to go back to the stock wheels...

You could try copper grease on all the metal to metal contact surfaced and the pad backs.

It's a long shot but removing direct metal to metal contact should minimise the squeal, I can't prve that it will, it just feels right.

Worth a try for the price of a tube of grease

Andy Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Try asking this in the L320 forum. Copper grease should not be anywhere near a modern brake system although Ceramic grease may have specific uses. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Hi, I stand corrected, every day is a school day.

I'll have to get myself some ceramic paste for brakes now.

Andy Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

ByronBlay wrote:

Hi
I recently replaced the stock 20 inch low profile wheels on my range rover sport 2008 L320 V8 supercharged with a beautiful set of black MO1882 18 inch compomotive wheels as I cracked a low profile rim on the rough roads where I live (tropical hinterland near Byron Bay NSW Australia).
The MO1882 wheels are fantastic, but to fit the wheels I had to remove the brake calliper counterweights as the space is so tight and the calipers huge on the supercharged.
Now the front brakes squeal terribly when slowly braking to stop in traffic in town, intersections, pedestrian crossings, parking etc. No Problem slowing from higher speeds.
Obviously the counter weights are there to prevent this (which is annoying) but not enough room to put them back.
Have you heard of this problem before?
Is there a solution?
Not an option to go back to the stock wheels...

Hello,
Excuse my bad English, What is a counterweight on the brake? Ist it called “ Antiquitschblech“ in Germany? My car does the same but I had nothing removed from the brakes. Is it possible to post a picture of the counterweights?
Is there any other reason for that sound of an old train breaking?
Marcus

Excuse my ignorance, but what do you count as a 'modern' braking system, and what is the issue with using copper grease on them?

Thanks

Shaun 2012 TDV8 Westminster in the New Forest

Also: Land Rover Series 3 SWB, Mercedes 280SL, Classic Mini race replica, VW Golf SV
Previously: Audi A8, RR TDV8 Vogue, Audi Allroad, VW Golf GTI Edition 30, Audi A4 Avant, A8, A4 Sport, A6, VW Golf Mk5, Bora, Golf GTI Mk3, Jetta Mk3, Passat, Jetta Mk1, Golf Mk1

Hello,
My workshop tells me : dust sticks on the copper Paste an it could not stand as high temperatures as the ceramic paste. It was ok in the past, but not nowadays. Since they told me that and i saw the dirt and dust sticking on the copper paste i only use ceramic paste. The dust and dirt together with the copper paste is really hard and sticky. And again excuse my bad english.
Marcus

Copper grease should not be used on aluminium as it will set up electrolysis and corrode the aluminium, it is OK if you have steel callipers but shouldn't be anywhere near aluminium.

There are better modern alternatives for aluminium and steel though...

Years ago it was common to drill a 10mm hole in the middle of the pads, doesn't effect braking but sure helps with slow speed squealing... drill from the pad side to prevent blow out of the pad material.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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That's very interesting and good to know - thanks.

 2012 TDV8 Westminster in the New Forest

Also: Land Rover Series 3 SWB, Mercedes 280SL, Classic Mini race replica, VW Golf SV
Previously: Audi A8, RR TDV8 Vogue, Audi Allroad, VW Golf GTI Edition 30, Audi A4 Avant, A8, A4 Sport, A6, VW Golf Mk5, Bora, Golf GTI Mk3, Jetta Mk3, Passat, Jetta Mk1, Golf Mk1

I have been given conflicting opinions stating that it should no longer be necessary to grease the backs of the pads anymore? But surely that would depend on the quality of the pad in question. Also is using something like Ceratec more suitable to use for both the pads and retaining pins to help prevent the retaining pins from seizing in the calliper or do you still use copper grease for the pins/bolts?

I use this.

The issue with any form of grease these days is that the common use of pressure washers which are very good at removing built up brake dust on calipers can dislodge it and move it onto the friction surfaces. The only place for grease is on encapsulated sliding pins and then it's important to use the right amount and the right type. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

ReggieMac wrote:

I have been given conflicting opinions stating that it should no longer be necessary to grease the backs of the pads anymore? But surely that would depend on the quality of the pad in question. Also is using something like Ceratec more suitable to use for both the pads and retaining pins to help prevent the retaining pins from seizing in the calliper or do you still use copper grease for the pins/bolts?

There is specific piston seal grease that won't react with the rubber or more importantly the brake fluid. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)