[TLDR] Looking for someone who understands in detail the steering lock ...

This is coming at an existing issue I have from an entirely different direction.

My car is effectively "dead", and is going to need recovery to get it to a repairer.

As previously mentioned in another thread, it has the dreaded "Smart key not found" error, which in practice - at least for the current fault condition - nothing other than the interior light works. The ignition can't be enabled, so the steering lock is (obviously) engaged.

Currently, the car is in an "impossible to access due to height and width restrictions" hotel car park, so it is going to need to be rolled to a spot where it can be loaded onto a transporter. In order to do that I'm going to need to defeat the steering lock.

Having researched this, I *BELIEVE* there are only two options for this - either dismantle the upper column and "modify" the physical steering lock mechanism so as it is prevented from engaging or find a mechanism to energise the mechanism to "unlock" the steering.

From what I see, the lock mechanism is (electrically) simplistic having only a pair of CANBUS wires plus positive / negative 12VDC connections. So it seems to me that it MIGHT be possible to just disconnect it from the CANBUS, energise the motor for the requisite time to disengage the lock and the leave it unplugged.

Now, given this is a RANGE ROVER, that might just be too good to be true. Does anyone who actually knows about the the steering lock mechanism have a view on my supposition? Please?

It has alternatively been suggested that all I need to do is approach a couple of local kids and they'd have the car removed and on a ferry to the Far East in a heartbeat ...

H E L P !!!!! (please)

I would not expect that disconnecting the module from the canbus and connecting power and ground to the module will cause the motor to run, let alone in the correct direction. If you can't get to the motor wires then probably the only option is to drill out what I expect to be sheared-off, tamper-proof bolts if you cannot switch on the ignition.

Once the ignition can be switched on, an IIDTool can disable the steering lock permanently, as I have done to mine. I doubt that the lock can be disabled whilst the ignition is off.

Can you fit trolleys under the front wheels like those that are used to move racecars?

Can you use blocks of wood or similar between a front wheel that's angled towards a wall so that the body doesn't hit the wall when the vehicle is dragged?

Quote:

I would not expect that disconnecting the module from the canbus and connecting power and ground to the module will cause the motor to run, let alone in the correct direction.

I wasn't expecting ... I was hoping ...

From what I've seen it isn't at all clear that the motor on that thing runs bidirectionally. Given there's no apparent way for the polarity to reverse, my supposition is that it runs in the same direction to both lock and unlock for a specific duration, defined by signals from the CANBUS. Me being a software engineer of advancing years, that's how I would have done it given the wiring structure that is *apparent* from the diagram. Of course, the reality might be somewhat different.

What would be helpful would be if I could find someone nearby who has a steering column off of the car that I could test my theory against. But that ain't gonna happen, I don't suppose.

Quote:

Can you use blocks of wood or similar between a front wheel that's angled towards a wall so that the body doesn't hit the wall when the vehicle is dragged?

It's very easy with electronics to reverse the current flow through a DC motor to change its direction. As an example, the AFS headlamp module sends commands to the headlights via a LIN wire to raise, lower, move left and right.

DON'T go busting your steering lock just to overcome this (short-term) issue!!!

If your recovery chap has a dolly set, that will get the car into a winch position.

If not, I have a set here (680kg per wheel). Although I'm in Aberdeenshire, I would consider bringing them down (for a fair contribution to my costs) to help out a fellow 4.4 owner! Will only work if the car is on a level hard standing. The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

Quote:

If not, I have a set here (680kg per wheel). Although I'm in Aberdeenshire, I would consider bringing them down (for a fair contribution to my costs) to help out a fellow 4.4 owner!

You are indeed a legend in your own lifetime - bravo!

Neither of us need go that far; ultimately I will dump this in the hands of the AA (with whom I have "everything under the sun" coverage included in my bank account benefits).

The major difficulty is one of timing; the repair shop it is destined for (central Edinburgh) can only take it on a specific day three weeks hence, and getting recovery to coincide with that most likely is actually the remaining hardest part.

Notwithstanding all that, I'm really curious to do as much as I can in the "self help" department - you never know, I might actually fix it

So I'm going to probe the various BUS lines with a scope and try unplugging stuff to see what happens. Again, the hard part of this is going to be locating the various modules. I need an Idiot's Guide to L322 Module Locations (me being an idiot!)

All the best!!!

GraemeS wrote:

It's very easy with electronics to reverse the current flow through a DC motor to change its direction.

I *TOTALLY* get that, just as long as the physical implementation isn't that of the simplistic schematic in the workshop manual. For instance, if the -VE side depicted really is "chassis grounded" that that's not going to happen. If both lines of this are fed from (say) the BCM then it is trivial to do as you say.

Mostly this question is now moot, I think - thanks to your idea of the "dollies". I'd still like to understand exactly how it is implemented, though

Cheers!

Perhaps a silly question - have you done a hard reset by disconnecting the battery and touching the +ve & -ve cables together? The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

it is implemented this way, power and can bus are connected to the control bord. and putting reverse polarity will fry board or whole can bus. Good luck.

I believe you don't have idea how safety features should work if you think, that simply putting 12V to the lock mechanism will disable protection.

You need to open whole mechanism to get access to motor itself. then you can energise it.

Quote:

I believe you don't have idea how safety features should work if you think, that simply putting 12V to the lock mechanism will disable protection.

if fuses are ok fixing rest issues without knowing DTCs and without diagrams is wasting of time. Diagrams you will find in wiki. Or pay few £ and download from topix.

Quote:

if fuses are ok fixing rest issues without knowing DTCs and without diagrams is wasting of time.

before you ve got answer - you need physical access to steering motor to unlock or you need to fix immobiliser passive module. to unlock wheel. You trying to harm yourself badly, and when you get answers you don't like, because are not optimistic to your idea you asking again.
Disconnecting modules will not repair that magically. Thats all.

But ok, if you want:
Switch 12v in lock connector - it will disable steering lock (and whole car)

Here you have interior.

I mean that Mr. Grafe from m1n1.de just had a customer with the same problem and was able to solve it. I would just write him an email