It's a lot easier if you brace the knuckle on something solid (like an axle stand) to focus all the energy into the balljoint. Rather than a gas torch, do you have access to a TIG welder? they're great for putting heat exactly where you want it.

I've used a hydraulic hub tool similar to below on driveshafts on LR's of all types, never let me down in 12 years.

Click image to enlarge

I'm in the process of replacing the front wheel bearings, both arms and all other bits, I managed to get the driveshaft loosened, removed steering arm, and then removed the bolts holding the arms to the sub front, took it to my handy press and pressed everything out. Even with a press it's a job to get it all to move, some fair noise when things come loose, the main problem is getting things solid and level enough to put force to the various bits out, getting the driveshaft back in is still a work of violence and persuasion though, I do like your hub puller, better than a couple of big hammers..
The only damage was 2 new sensors, both did not want to move and snapped off.

Will

EDITED - Ignore this post, I'm getting mixed up and have deleted advice to use a universal sleeve press kit.

A sleeve press kit won't work on the bottom ball joint. I used another tool like a big G clamp with a winding nut and a receiver last time I replaced bottom ball joint on the car.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Phoenix wrote:

It's a lot easier if you brace the knuckle on something solid (like an axle stand) to focus all the energy into the balljoint. Rather than a gas torch, do you have access to a TIG welder? they're great for putting heat exactly where you want it.

I've used a hydraulic hub tool similar to below on driveshafts on LR's of all types, never let me down in 12 years.

Click image to enlarge

This is the one I have, https://www.garagediagnostictools.co.uk/pr...ww-1017ww/
There's probably cheaper copies on fleabay which may be fine for occasional use.
What I would say, is use full nuts & washers to hold the flange onto the wheel studs, using the conical wheel nuts will damage the flange of the tool. They don't need to be death tight, just 'nipped'.

WRT getting the driveshaft back in the L322 hubs, I drill the centre about 10mm deep and tap to M8 so I can attach a small slide hammer. After cleaning the splines and lubricating with a bit of Moly grease (the same that the CV joint is filled with), the driveshaft is much easier to refit.

Thanks for that last bit of advise Phoenix , I am having a real struggle fitting the L/H shaft, Right went easy enough but the left is putting up a struggle.

Will

If you can't drill & tap, I've known people put a big pair of mole grips around the driveshaft and beat them with a copper hammer whilst rotating the driveshaft back & forth, I've seen one tech build it all back up and run the engine in gear (all the wheels off the floor, obviously!) whilst tapping the side of the CV joint with a small(ish) hammer, took a few minutes but worked.

Many thanks, good to know what works and worth the investment👍 Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Quote:

WRT getting the driveshaft back in the L322 hubs, I drill the centre about 10mm deep and tap to M8 so I can attach a small slide hammer. After cleaning the splines and lubricating with a bit of Moly grease (the same that the CV joint is filled with), the driveshaft is much easier to refit.

I was recommended this tool for refitting the shaft to the hub, which I have bought but not used yet.

Click image to enlarge

So gents, it's back to a nightmare yet again!! It would seem that the CV joint and I are at an impasse

I managed to split the CV joint with the knuckle still attached from the drive shaft without too much trouble for a change, my engineer's brain thinking that once off I'd set it up on my bench vice, soak it for 24 hours in penetrating fluid and knock the CV joint out from above. NO SUCH FLIPPING LUCK. So here's how today's short workshop trials have been abandoned....

Click image to enlarge

The best penetrating fluid for that sort of job is 1:1 brake fluid & Acetone.
A bit late now admittedly, I've slackened off driveshaft nuts and accelerated / braked sharply a dozen times or so before doing battle with L322 driveshafts that look like they may be problematic. I can't say it definitely helped, logically, it should have.

My experience of such jobs has led me to the conclusion that if anything like this needs replacing, off to my local Indy it goes.
Life’s too short to fight with these things  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey