Try this, try that...too expensive just try to change parts one by one, and without result quite often.
Problem is known: not efective drain system. Why? Because the pump is not able to suck the oil when get air with low RPM.
Solutions:
1) JLR turbo drain mode. Fix the problem? Not always. Why? Because first turbo still dont have separate drain hole. Aux. sump still fill up and not drained. High price as well.
2) Change the oil pump. Again, not sure it fix the problem. Why? Because the problem is not the pump is wear out, even brand new oil pump can not suck the oil sometime. Dont belive? Check 2015+ 4,4TDV8 engines, turbo drain mode installed from factory. Why, what you think guys? Of course, to avoid same old problem. And new pump is also not cheap.
3) Change turbos. It will fix the problem temporary due new turbocharger not let the oil so easy out, even without proper drain. Very expensive solution.
4) Use thicker oil. Maybe help, maybe not, I dont know.
5) Rebuild the oil pump and make it pumping. I got info how. Its so logical, when I saw the first picture I dont need any other information anymore, all was clear immidietly. Its so simple actually. I have no clue why JLR didnt do it from factory, seems they didnt understand whats going on with the pump and what is wrong.
And of course I do this work on my car immidietly.
1h disassembling the pump, 1h rebuild it, and 1h put all back together. And WOW, smoke gone compleatly. Why? Because the pump start pumping as it should, system start working as it was designed in the beginning, turbo drain start working properly, aux. sump is always empty now.
First 1000km done. No smoke at all. I drive 1,5h urban, then to highway and full kickdown 0-150km/h, and zero smoke. Just unbeliveble. Before I need lets say 15-20min urban mode only to get smoke with acceleration, now its gone.
You guys can find my old posts how I make JLR turbo drain mode, how it seems its even helps for a while, but only in winter time. Already next spring I got smoke back again, so I can confirm JLR drain mode not working. Conclusion was, its impossible to fix it. But I was wrong, its very possible.
Now I will test couple monts and check how its going. I will clean intercooler lower hoses and check after couple of monts are those going oily or not. Last time when I open hoses I got couple drops of oil from there.
Unfortunately, I have no rights at the moment to open the secret how to rebuild the oil pump. Its not fair to designer of this project in my opinion, he is the author and he still selling this information. But I can confirm its really working.
But lets see.

Click image to enlarge

Is there any update L322 TDV8 2011 Autobiography
Working for an OE aftermarket car parts suppler

1500km, all fine.

So….do we just strip pump down and try and work it out? Is it obvious then? Got a few days off this week and a brand new pump to put on. Might have a play with the one I remove to see if I can work out what the issue with them is then. Wish me luck. 2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography Ipanema sand
2007 3.6 TDV8 RRS HSE Black
2003 4.6is V8 BMW X5 Black
2000 2.5 TD5 Discovery Blue
2000 1.8 Freelander Black

Hi Yellopin

That's what i was wondering as i also have next week off work, and i would love to get this sorted.
And yes i wish you luck. L322 TDV8 2011 Autobiography
Working for an OE aftermarket car parts suppler

I’ll have a look Shaun. I can’t promise anything but I’ll have a play. I was going to write more but deleted it and will just see what I find, if anything and share my findings. 2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography Ipanema sand
2007 3.6 TDV8 RRS HSE Black
2003 4.6is V8 BMW X5 Black
2000 2.5 TD5 Discovery Blue
2000 1.8 Freelander Black

Sorry for the novice question but what is the Turbo oil drain mod? I have no idea

It’s detailed on the forum in quite a few posts. Essentially some cars smoked under acceleration as the oil built up as it didn’t drain from the turbos properly when driven at low rpm for days on end. An extra drain pipe was added as the fix by LR that needed a hole drilling in the engine block for the oil to get back to the sump. It was fitted by the factory during the L405 production but never on the L322. Other garages can do it, seems it’s about £1000. Some cars never need it though.

Others may give a better explanation 🤣.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Thanks for the explanation. Mine doesn't smoke to I assume its fine.

If you drive around for 20 or 30 miles keeping below 2500 rpm, in 'waft' mode. Then you give it a bootful and go above 2500 rpm, thats when the smoke appeared, in my case it was like something from James Bond, an absolute smoke screen. I had the turbo drain mod done by Green Oval Garage, and the problem was cured. It seems now however there are other theories relating to scavenge pump which may also resolve the problem by different means and much cheaper. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

It's an interesting subject and it seems some engines have this problem and some don't.

For example, my 4.4TDV8 has never had any smoke whatsoever from the tailpipe. 240K km on the clock, original scavenge pump, and no oil drain mod done.

glenney wrote:

Thanks for the explanation. Mine doesn't smoke to I assume its fine.

I do some higher revs most of the time I drive, no smoke ever. Very clean exhaust gases always.

Ok guys, Iam ready to do for one of you scavange pump mod. For free, only shipping cost.
Good if you dont have JLR turbo drain mode, then we can proof its not needed. Or, you have drain mode but it not solve the smoking issue, like my car.
If someone interested write PM.

I am happy to send you my vacuum pump. I am actually planning to replace it with a new one, hoping it will address the problem. I am actually not getting any smoke issues, but there is some oil in the intercooler and exhaust pipe from the second LH turbo charger.

I am located in Poland and have issues sending any money to a russian mechanic/business man.

Also I will be happy to make his invention open source. I have also a significant engineering experience as an aviation lube system designer, so I quite know what to expect and will be able to comment on how proper this solution is.

Someone mentioned about adding a check valve on the scavenge line between sump and the pump, which is a valid idea. Other things to consider would be to reduce internal clearance in the geared scavenge pump itself to increase its suction pressure and reduce it's sensitivity to air and priming issues.
There is also a vacuum system nearby, so maybe there is a smart way to connect the scavenge oil pump side to the vacuum side to help it's priming and low rpm scavenge potential.

Bart Barted