Would it be possible to reset the car back to factory default ?
Ccf back to as built
Patrick at gap would be able to help with that if you haven’t already done this of ourselves 👍 Last night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and I thought to myself, where,s the f**king ceiling!!

I had asked about that on here aljo but the only suggestion was a battery off reset.

I would very much like to try a full reset of some kind that completely wipes and reinitialises all modules in the car so that's its like a newly built one.

I will ask GAP, just waiting on Pat to check the logs next week from my failed flashes of the CHCM and CHCMB then we can see if he can figure out how to make the updates take.

So it's got another problem that's developed today.

The front climate control fan runs when I get in the car (it's been quite hot today so set at 18 degrees front and back) and after a few minutes it slows to a stop whilst the rear climate control fan keeps blowing.

Manually adjusting fan speed to max or pressing max a/c does nothing (nothing in the front anyway, it makes the rear blower fan go beserk)

Pile of junk.

I’ve been keeping a keen eye on this thread hoping for you to find a fix to these issues…

Does the 405 have the same FSR issues as the 322? Could you have a parasitic draw that starves other systems enough to cause problems such as the heavy steering and harsh ride? Maybe pop the fuse to see if there is any change. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I'm trying my best ffrr, looking an all angles and noted down everything I've done,/tried in a book but I don't know how long my patience will last.

We were out today visiting a local classic car meet and then planning to do the food shopping after. My partner suggested going to a location 30 mins away for a walk and I turned her down explaining I didn't want to as I just didn't want to drive the car there.

I don't know if the 405 has FSR issues but I'll need to look into it as it makes an already uncomfortable car even less comfortable when you don't have working climate!

I like your train of thought re causing a draw connected to my main issues but its not done this before until today.

Although part of me does not want to say this, first it was abandoning a trip abroad, now it's smaller things like not wanting to drive 30 minutes for a nice walk. I think it is time for you to change your car and enjoy life a bit more. Another FFRR or something else, keep you and the Boss happy.

Yes Merchy your right I should sell it and as you quote enjoy my life a bit more.

But at this point, 3 cars and a lot of cash later its becoming a foolish case of a quest to figure this out, to fix it once and for all for myself and for the few other 405 guys and the 322 guys.

There has to be an angle I'm missing and not approaching it from.

If I give up and sell it then I will not be returning to RR ownership.

I want to be one of of the ones that sings the praises of RR instead of the many that bemoan it.

Will be manually checking the rear height sensors are good on my next day off.

I know when my L322 changed it was like flicking a switch, nothing gradual. It was parked in my garage. Parked up fine, next day fairly hard as soon as I drove it. A new height sensor and some calibration made it manageable, as on the other thread. I did wonder about the air bag rubber getting harder with age, but that would have been gradual.

Such a shame. Progress isn’t always….

There must be something we are missing, as you say, unless there are that many parameters and variables it’s different on each car, but I don’t think it can be that bad….. ffffffff

Putting me off a 405 now. I would have thought an LR specialist might have seen the issue a good few times now, but not much on the internet on it.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Funny how yours was like a switch being flicked mjdronfield.

My previous 2011 L322 developed the problem like that.

Drove over the poor excuse for a road below, parked up for lunch and when we came out it had gone hard. I even exclaimed to my friend 'somethings not right, its gone like my old one'

I had considered air bag rubber degradation too but its gradual not instant like you say.

Also suprised no specialist has heard of this... I am sure there are ones but have they cured it?

Click image to enlarge

Been out with the multimeter and checked the resistance of the solenoid in all 4 dampers.

I had to do this by disconnecting the multi plugs from the CHCM in the boot and measuring there as the multi meter probes were too large to fit together into the top of the shock and reach the pins without touching each other.

So in effect I've measured the resistance of the solenoid in the damper along with the wiring back to the CHCM.

All 4 metered out at the same value so I'm going to assume the solenoids themselves inside the shocks are okay.

GAP have come back to me today with another set of files to try and flash the CHCM and CHCMB.

Just need to upload them onto the IID and give it a go later.

Successfully updated the CHCM and CHCMB, there was a slight and I mean slight improvement but it was very similar to the improvement I experience when removing and re inserting the adaptive damping fuse so I don't expect it will last.

What was the resistance of the solenoids?

The meter read 3.4 ohms for each damper solenoid, less the test leads gives a result of 2.9 ohms which would include the wiring to the dampers themselves from the CHCM.

Hopefully I've read that correctly?

Click image to enlarge

Okay, I've found another line of inquiry.

Looking at the WSM the BBUS incorporates a tilt sensor which provides longitudinal and lateral angle of the vehicle to the BCM.

What I cannot identify is if this information is relayed along the CAN network and used by the CHCM to operate the adaptive damping or if its purpose is solely for operation of the cars anti theft systems.

Any one have any thoughts on this?

Last edited by MarianaWestminster on 5th Nov 2023 11:20pm. Edited 3 times in total

A resistance of 3.4 ohms would cause a current draw of nearly 4A at a constant 13V. According to my IIDtool my L322s draw about 1.5A which would mean less than 50% duty cycle if mine are 3.4 ohms. I'll check one of mine as soon as I get a chance. IIRC the WSM states 1.5A and around 6 ohms but I'll check.

You shouldn't be seeing 0.5 ohms in the test leads if they and the meter are any good.