I normally use my low range every 2nd or 3rd week to keep it mobile,altho its just a short trip in low range -- length of house/backyard and in/out of shed.(have large shed down the back where I park the beast as boat and trailer fit neatly in front garage)
Its normally quite good,but am having trouble getting it do go into low the last few days.
Tend to use it when the car has been for a run so the g/box and hopefully transfer box is up to temp.
Have tried to engage low for 5 days now and it still doesnt want to go into low.
Oil was changed approx 15000 k's ago.

Is there anything I can check too see if something is stuck/loose or any other method to see why it wont go into low.
NOTHING shows up on GAP tool either.

Thanks
littlecub

Does anyone have any suggestions......
48 people have looked at this thread.........and counting

You could use fuse 37 to put the transfer box in Neutral (providing you’re on the flat and the handbrake works). This would at least confirm that the shift motor and rotary potentiometer are functioning. Do you suspect that it might be the switch itself at fault?

Phil

So what exactly does it do when you try to select low range? Is it trying to change? Does it do anything at all?

RRPhil,
Have been busy today, will try your suggestion tomorrow.

Stuart,
It doesnt do anything when I press the lever. I normally hear a faint couple of clicks to let me know that it has engaged or disengaged as the case maybe. The symbol died after I was rear ended many years ago and I havent been bothered trying to find the cause.
As an aside......the symbol comes alive when I flick the gearshift over to sport mode and disappears when I put it back to normal mode.

cheers
littlecub

RRPhil,
I get nothing on dash to say "transfer neutral" with engine on or off

I did have the box redone 160000 K's ago but NOT the transfer case.

Have 185000 k's on the transfer case.

So what would you suggest I do..... rebuild/get new one( do they still make them?), recon model or second hand one.
Whats the cheaper option seeing as I am a pensioner now.

regards
littlecub

Have you tried googling the problem ... seems to be suggestions that the problem might be electrical rather than mechanical, so replacing the transfer case may not help.

Garry, did you see my reply on AULRO? Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

littlecub wrote:

RRPhil,
I get nothing on dash to say "transfer neutral" with engine on or off

I did have the box redone 160000 K's ago but NOT the transfer case.

Have 185000 k's on the transfer case.

So what would you suggest I do..... rebuild/get new one( do they still make them?), recon model or second hand one.
Whats the cheaper option seeing as I am a pensioner now.

regards
littlecub

Garry, on AULRO you said:

[QUOTE=disco gazza]Have had a "noise on actuator" on transfer case for a bit and now its gone as well as going into/out of low range.
Could this be the potentioner going out of wack.
If so is it reasonably easy to fix.
Any hints/tricks greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]

Was the noise mechanical or electrical noise reported by your electronic diagnostic system? Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

“Noise on actuator signal” is the usual diagnostic fault code for the potentiometer, sometimes together with an output speed signal error.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post491374.html#491374

Phil

I had both symptoms with mine and it did have cracked solder joints in the potentiometer. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Had to go down the shops,when I got back I parked on a bit of a slope.
Put fuse in "37", neutral-- no change,nothing on dash either. While still parked there,put it into park,handbrake off,
it settled in "park" NO movement. Also no drive either forward/backward whilst fuse is in "37".
Took fuse out, normal drive forward/backward resumed.
IID tool has in "Transfer Case" Gear Selection...LOW_STOP. But it is still in HIGH range.

Sorry but cant remember the code that used to come up with" noise on actuator" as it does not come up anymore.Cant find the piece of paper that I had it written on.

Am getting 2nd hand transfer case from a mob in Adelaide,so I'll put that in when I get it.

Does it need to be programmed into the system or is it plug and play.

Thanks for all the help so far, much appreciated.

cheers
littlecub

To be honest and being the cheapskate that I am, I’d check the potentiometer first.

However, I was an electronics technician so I’m not afraid to try a repair (which I did successfully). Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Mechanically the NV225 is pretty robust. I would certainly try swapping over the shift motors (just 3 bolts) before resorting to replacing the whole transfer case.