Hi guys. Any ideas as to what would cause a steering judder/vibration feeling only when accelerating gently and turning full lock or close to full lock, ie when turning out of a junction. Feels as if something is slightly sticking.
I have 2 bottom arms being delivered next week and front discs are a little worn so I'm going to change those at the same time. Could worn, cracked bottom arms cause this?
What else should he be looking at when I have it up on a neighbours lift. ?

By the way, should I be able to move this when the car is stationary. I take it this is the bottom arm ? I'm not the most mechanically minded unfortunately

Have you tried putting your Terrain Response into manual mode - with the button up? I had exactly this with my last L405, and it stopped as soon as I put it into manual, it seems that a hard lock pulling out of a junction and applying power caused this issue - totally solved in manual - or keep the button down and just live with it 2021 L405 Vogue SE 4.4 V8 DIESEL ~ #17

Thanks. Ive Just been out there and unfortunately it's still the same. Any ideas what could be causing this?

That front lower arm - yes you can move it with your hand. The large bush has quite a bit of give.

If it's definitely the front wheels experiencing the issue, that points towards something wrong with your front diff. The job of the front diff is to split the power between and also enable the two front wheels to rotate at different rates. Pulling out of a junction, obviously one wheel is rotating more than the other. It's worth therefore investigating further in this area.

Note that there is the known transfer case issue that exposes itself when turning sharply out of junctions. That manifests itself as a thumping under the car though and not a shaking of the steering wheel so that doesn't necessarily align with the issue you are experiencing. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

It`s almost certainly the rear diff, but only if you have a lockable rear, the rear has a clutch pack that requires the oil flushed and refilled, which should be done when serviced.

Mine has been getting worse over the last couple of months it`s going in for a service in a couple of weeks so will report back if it works. 2017 SDV8 4.4 silicon silver AB
2012 TDV8 4.4 Stornaway Grey AB
2011 TDV8 4.4 Buckingham Blue
2012 VW V6 3.0 Tougreg

So I had the chance earlier today to get into a car park and replicate me pulling out from junctions, both left and right , I hope on one was watching, it's definitely a thumping , juddering sound until I've straightened or nearly straightened up. Roughly from half lock on.
Yesterday as per my post I initially thought it was the steering vibrating but I don't think it is. I'm leaning more towards the transfer case, info that I've learned from here.
I've ordered 3 litres of Land Rover special oil and will do the double flush , followed by the calibration, next week when it arrives and fingers crossed that works.
Il keep updating for any future buyers reference points, I'm learning as I go, and this forum if full of great info and help.

Worth doing a transfer case double flush and clutch calibration by the sounds of it. I had the same issue and it ended up resolving the symptom for a couple of weeks only. I did this three times and each time was the same whereby the problem reared its head after a couple of weeks.

A couple of well respected independents wanted to replace the transfer case at a significant cost. In the end I took a £9 punt and put in a tube of Lubeguard Dr Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx and I've done over 5k miles since with no symptoms whatsoever. May be worth keeping this in mind if your double flush doesn't fix your issue. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Hopefully getting the special oil tomorrow at some point, if not then it will be Monday. Called on the way past Land Rover today and got a couple of the copper washers for the hex nuts.

Is the procedure just removing the old oil, re filling, then draining the new oil again straight away or am I supposed to drive it firstly, before draining the new oil, then filling for a 2nd time?

Also, is there any way to re calibrate without a dealer visit.
I'm not sure if an Autel mk808s is able to re calibrate an L405 transfer box.

If that doesn't work then il try the Dr Tranny lube, worth a go.

Prepare for a world of fun doing those arms. The ball joints are tapered into a steel sleeve in the aluminium hub

We had one in this week, and our 30 ton press struggled

Double flush of the transfer case seems to have solved the juddering. Only got to try a few turns earlier but seems to have solved it. . Fingers crossed

Hi Jecks what was the final result? Did the low speed knock go away? I have just started to get exactly the same symptom on mine. My local Indy tells me its the clutch pack inside the transfer case that is worn (I had hoped it was the propshaft center bearing)

Mine is under the LR approved warranty so will be interesting to see if they will cover it when it next goes in. 2015 Range Rover L405 SDV8 AB Corris grey
2010 Range Rover TDV6 HSE Narra Bronze sold
2006 Discovery 3 SE green sold
Defender 90 td5 sold
Defender 90 soft top sold

Hi. Yea the double flush cured that problem, though shortly after i had further problems and developed an engine oil leak or 2 and decided to move it on as was out of LR warranty.