Was the 12v readings previously when the engine was running?
Could there be something happening to affect the voltage but only sometimes? Could that be why you get inconsistent symptoms? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Yes, started from cold yesterday the autel was saying battery voltage was 12.75-12.85 volts when running.

(Fluctuating between those 2 numbers)

If you haven’t done so already, I’d suggest keeping that voltage screen open when driving and noting the voltage when the steering is heavy vs normal.

And maybe compare it with the harsh ride too… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

A vid from this morning:

It appears that the system reacts to try and address sudden rate of change, but will very quickly revert back into its default state when driving along normally.

For example, initial pull away as the car falls back onto its rear, the values change at first, but quickly go back to default as the car settles into steady acceleration.

The next changes are present when the gearbox changes, it clearly does something around a gear change to smooth out the let off and re-application of power around a gear change so the car doesn't lurch.

When cruising at around 60, it remains steady, unless you see an undulation in the road, and it'll do something around that bump.

Similarly, I brake for the car ahead deliberately late. You can see it change on initial braking ... but whats more apparent is letting off the brake, you can see a big dip in the numbers as braking is released ( i suppose its allowing the nose to rise back up, but in a controlled manner )

And then the pull out for the overtake, the gear changes are obvious in the figures.

- - - - - - - - - - -

Thinking over the figures, I think 1.5A is the max current it can give, and is the softest setting ( cause we know that disconnected ( 0A ), the dampers go firm. So the dropping of the numbers indicates the car is trying to firm up in those circumstances of dropped numbers.


Oh, and my dashcam looks pretty blurry ... I'll need to check that. V8 or else ...

Thanks for the very informative post Fisha.

I'll have to see if I can do similar to see if my functions as expected when riding hard/steering stiff/ feeling lethargic.

I will never get my head round why this feels the same as l322 no 2 and l322 no 3 I've owned.

I remember reading a post on here about a tuning box affecting someone's suspension on a 405.

I dont have a tuning box but I've been trying to think what I might have been doing/ plugging into the 3 cars that could affect all of them.

The only common denominator between the 3 is er... me!

No idea. I did notice as wel that when you go faster and above 60 , the default value begins to drop down to 1.3-1.4. So it must be firming up as the speed increases to improve handling. V8 or else ...

Having a new tyre fitted on the n/s/r on Friday to replace the one which can't be brought any lower than 110 newton's on the road force.

The o/s/r tyre is going to be moved on the rim in an attempt to lower its RFV from 90.

The alignment is also being checked whilst I'm there.

The technician knows all about tight tolerance mode whilst doing the alignment etc so feel I will be in good hands.

Will this make any difference? Who knows.

Last edited by MarianaWestminster on 5th Nov 2023 8:21pm. Edited 1 time in total

Just had a feel of the steering in my sisters Velar R dynamic SE (D180 diesel) only whilst sitting on her drive but I found I could dry steer that with 1 finger, no resistance at all!

Thats how my first L322 was and how I expect the 405 to be.

It's another Apples to Oranges comparison but the tech is likely similar between the 2 cars.

The tech will be similar, but the force programming might not be. I.e. the firmware of the L405 may be programmed to be stiffer than the Velar. Been a while since I last drove the evoque, but it was definitely lighter in feel, yet has the same tech as the L405. IIRC i remember the L322 being lighter than the L405 as well. The L322 had a lighter, smoother, yet more connected feel. It also had speed sensitive power assist, which I dont remember the reading the L405 having in the same manner.

i.e. at slow speeds, the power was increased for parking turns etc, but stiffened up at other times. V8 or else ...

You see I don't understand why that would be, I would expect the top of the line model to be better...

My first l322 was perfect and as you describe your own recollection.

The 59 plate facelift and the 2011 4.4 I had were both heavier like this 405.

Almost like resistance when turning rather than being smooth and light.

I'd imagine the electric steering does firm up at higher speeds like the servotronic hydraulic system in the 322.

The steering being like this and firm ride make it a chore to drive and certainly not like it appears in the many youtube videos and reviews I've read/watched.

I'm really struggling with this because I want to be able to love the car, but every drive annoys me and leaves me thinking 'why?'

I've driven another well sorted example (Haylands) and although it was similar to my own it wasn't annoying me.

We drove up the motorway and I was fairly relaxed driving (other than the nerves of driving someone else's pride and joy) I just can't relax driving my own.

I wonder ... if it could be related to the torque sensor on the rack. Really long shot stuff now.

Reading up on how electric assisted power steering works, where the steering shaft goes into the rack, its connected by a twistable coupling, and there are hall effect sensors which can detect that torque twist on each side of the coupling ... the system I presume then drives the motor (and rack) in the direction that reduces the torque ... in doing makes the steering go where your turning towards.

This would explain why I feel the L405 is a little disconnected ... the pinion shaft itself has a few degrees of twist in it compared to the L322 which wouldn't have that I dont think due to being hydraulic. Cause of your thread here, i've noticed that on straight ahead, there is a little bit of what feels like dead spot ... where you can move/shoogle the wheel, but not really get much of an immediate response out of the steering. Its not loose, but its not 100% direct either. I suppose in effect, the electric system is always a degree or two delayed from input of the driver.

What if the sensors weren't being sensitive enough, or being temperamental. If they were under-reading the torque, there would have to be more input from the driver i.e. turning force applied on the steering wheel before the system would apply assistance to reduce it. That would make the steering feel heavier as the assistance gets applied later.

Random thought as I say ... I'm off to bed now. Cheerie ! V8 or else ...

I dont know Fisha, it could be but I would of thought I'd get a fault unless it's just designed like that.

I've been in my mother's 2011 Freelander 2 (SD4 HSE auto) since last night when I picked it up and brought it home ready to take for an MOT today.

Swapping back to the 405 tonight felt like a downgrade, yes it's more refined but the drivetrain is laggy, the steering so much heavier than the Freelander and the ride just not soft compared.

Driving down the dual carriage way at 70 I think I realised all that vibration/shaking I feel might not be unbalanced wheels but the poor suspension struggling to absorb the bumps in the road instead transmitting them into the car as side to side shakes

For those who said alignment earlier in the thread, it's been checked today on hunter hawkeye, slightly out so adjusted to be correct and it makes no difference.

Last edited by MarianaWestminster on 5th Nov 2023 8:22pm. Edited 1 time in total

Is there any way to completely remove and reflash the firmware in all the modules?

I'd like to take everything back to factory but I know taking off the battery doesn't do this

I don't think that will do anything, if the modules were learning ones then they would have already learnt where they need to be, so no difference from resetting them and having them learn where they should be, a bit like going to the same location, but from a different start point...

If they aren't learning ones then they won't change... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-