Hi all

Noticed some oil drops on my newly laid drive 😭 from the rear of my car.

Putting it on my mates ramp tomoz but he said he hopes it’s not the dynamic active anti roll bar or summat ?

BUT, he’s not sure if mine has one ?

2014 SDV8 4.4, does it have one ?

Common fault ? Easy or pricey fix IF it does ?

If not, could it be a diff seal ?

Thanks guys !

It’ll have the active roll bars if it’s a 4.4.

If you look under the rear end you’ll see the anti roll unit and 2 hydraulic pipes that do a 180 deg bend as they reach the unit . The unit is about 5to6 inch diameter and 10inch long . The pipe work will likely be rusty. Mine certainly is rusting.

I’ve not had to work on the pipes yet, but if I ever do I’m thinking I would replace the pipes with a single length of hydraulic tubing custom made to greatly reduce the potential for further corrosion. V8 or else ...

Now that’s a great idea !

Thanks for your reply.

I’ll soon see tomoz wat it is , hopefully it’s a simple fix 😂

We had the rear diff pinion seal go on ours, dealer suggested it was common when they fitted the repair kit, worth checking also. Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

Also thanks !

Big job ? Pricey ?

The active roll bar pipe replacement is many thousands of pounds at the dealer, I too have been looking at alternative pipes, the unit end is pretty straight forward but the other end may prove challenging... Hope it's a cheap fix for you...  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Rear diff pinion seal is a common issue. Had mine sorted under the AU warranty and no issues since.

Was it a simple job mate ?

Regarding the pipes, afaik, they are metal at each end to start off with, so not outwith the realms of possibility to use them to begin with and attach a new length of hose between.

Or, looking at the new ones, it seems like the pipe ends are held in by bracket clamps that ... they could be remade to suit whatever pipe end fitting you had made.

A decent hydraulics company would be able to advise.

Its a different topic in its own right I think ... but worth looking at further down the line. I imagine mine will go at some point. V8 or else ...

So had it on ramp, it’s the prop pinion seal at the inlet to the rear diff that leaking.
So, question, can I buy the special tool to remove it ?
The videos I’ve seen say you need a special tool ?
What sort of price would the job be at an Indy?

There is a LR tool for the pinion oil seal or you can by aftermarket spanners like this:

https://www.bearingkits.co.uk/RANGE-ROVER-...#gsc.tab=0

I have replaced the pinion oil seal on other cars and I found the hardest thing is to stop the axle turning so you have to lock the axle or use opposing spanners. These nuts are tight so you tend to need a breaker or long arm wrench to gain the required leverage.

It's a job in itself that isn't that difficult especially is you have access to a ramp. The seal replacement kits are inexpensive so its a low cost job if you do it yourself. I recon that I could do a replacement in 3 hours which in garage speak probably means 5hr book time at £100/hr plus £150 for the parts that cost around £70 or £30 if you go cheap.

On the car I did a replacement seal on I was servicing it and found the axle had no oil in it, none. Fortunately it was a seal failure on a car that only does 500 miles between services and fortunately no damage was done. Watchword is a leaking pinion seal can only get worse so best sorted ASAP.

PS - If you have watched some videos then you'll know how marking up the nut and shaft is important to set the pre-load on the bearing correctly.

&ab_channel=RKXTECH.com

Here they use paint, I prefer to punch mark as paint can get rubbed or smudged.

Thanks for the reply !
I’ve seen that video and it doesn’t seem to be overly complicated apart from the making sure it’s marked up and put back in the same place but ?

I’m surprised it matters but then it is a RR nothing is easy 🤨

I was a mechanic years ago in the days of crypton tuners, distributors and points etc and I don’t think it’s a hard job, it’s just the marking up bit and putting back correct that worry’s me a little !

The marking up is only to ensure you don't overtighten the bearing which would reduce the service life. It's only to return it to its original factory setting. Just think of it like setting the timing against some marks on the crank.

I had the front pipes for the ARC corrode at one of the clamps on the front offside chassis rail.

I had them replaced at the main stealers in Aberdeen and the cost would bring a tear to a glass eye!

Mike

I’m intrigued?
How much ?

Been quoted £770 to go the seal but after watching the video that seems way over priced, am I wrong ?