fullfatrr.com - View topic - 10 years maintenance (Front dismantled)

Advertise on fullfatrr.com »

Forum · Gallery · Wiki · Shop · Sponsors

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical (L322) > 10 years maintenance (Front dismantled)

Page 4 of 5

Print this entire topic ·

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Jayk69 wrote:
shinchan wrote:
Jayk69 wrote:
While you have it in bits consider a new alternator!! my car has covered 130k and alternator failed yesterday i nearly replaced it when i had the front end off doing all belts and pullies but it tested fine!!
new Denso unit is on it's way!!
But i do not have time to fit it so it is off to local garage!!

Understood! Just ordered a new alternator! Thanks!!

Sinchan, i did my belts and pullies 18 months ago, i also changed the water pump as it was in bits and seemed like a good idea as these can go when changing to new belts and tensioners. Since i have done that my AC compressor failed in spring this year and as you already know my alternator failed this winter. the AC compressor is a simple fix there is an electric valve in the back of it. this is cheap to replace and i would also recommend replacing it while you car is in bits. I will try to find a link on here that explains it. You cannot replace this valve with the compressor in place it has to come out, which is why i replaced the whole thing. had i know all this when i did my belts i would have changed the valve at that point. Keep up the good work

Hi Jaik, AC valve ordered!! Alternator, starter motor, water pump, pulleys, o-rings, oil retainers, oil cooler, bolts, .... I hope it's the last thing I´ve to change! Thank you!!

Last edited by shinchan on 22nd Dec 2022 6:35am. Edited 1 time in total

21st Dec 2022 5:26pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Diff in site...

21st Dec 2022 5:29pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Calipers done!
After vapour blasted and mask a Cerakote treatment...second time for me to apply this, first time in H-series (oven cured). Astonished with results but stressful process...

Click image to enlarge

21st Dec 2022 5:35pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Hi guys, Merry Christmas!!
A lot of work done this week and very tired. Cerakote again in the hubs (oven cure) and right support of transmission (air cure) and stainless bolts...some errors with caliper pistons seals (trash) and ordered again.
Impossible to find info about torque of hardline in steering rack, finally tight to 20 Nm and crossed fingers!
Axles refurbished, engine mounts painted, some stainless bolts, new starter motor, alternator, bolts, o-rings, seals...

Click image to enlarge

29th Dec 2022 11:34pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

I'm very impressed with the level of detail you're working to - but why stainless bolts? I'd be concerned about galling and chemical corrosion - the OEM bolts of many vehicle manufacturers are Zinc-Nickel plated with a higher shear strength than the equivalent stainless steel bolts, how are you adjusting the torque for the new fasteners?

29th Dec 2022 11:56pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Hi Phoenix, thanks for your message. I'm also concerned about. All structural bolts are OEM zinc plated, some refurbished and others all new. I use stainless in mudguards (plastic vs plastic) and brake dust cover with the exception of transmission bracket than I painted with cerakote. Torque is transmission bracket bolts is only 22Nm and I decided to try with stainless to see the behavior. In wheels I use titanium nuts after a while and very happy with results.

30th Dec 2022 10:28am

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

Ah right, I thought you were replacing assembly fixture bolts! That would be a bad idea...

30th Dec 2022 10:46am

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Jayk69 wrote:
While you have it in bits consider a new alternator!! my car has covered 130k and alternator failed yesterday i nearly replaced it when i had the front end off doing all belts and pullies but it tested fine!!
new Denso unit is on it's way!!
But i do not have time to fit it so it is off to local garage!!

Hi Jayk, finally compressor removed to gain access to the valve, quite difficult because tried to keep the tubes to avoid order more parts (o-rings). I ordered a valve in a web dealer (43 pounds) specialized in HVAc stuff thinking that was a EU vendor but finally the track start in China...I´m waiting for!

4th Jan 2023 6:12pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Impossible to extract the turbo plastic inlet...

Click image to enlarge

Most difficult bolt to remove in the operation...I wish I´d have done this before mounting the subframe

Maybe in RHD is more easily?

Click image to enlarge

Last edited by shinchan on 4th Jan 2023 6:42pm. Edited 1 time in total

4th Jan 2023 6:18pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

John w ......FFRR Hero, I can´t imagine to make this reparation with the front installed...

John w wrote:
OK, work is under way.
Rain keeps stopping play, but so far:
Plastic sump panel off,
lhs air filter/box removed:

In this pic, you can see the electronics that sit over the airbox sat on the strut. One bolt out (on right of pic where white wax oil is), unplug the connector on the pipe, and undo both clamps of pipe.

next remove the airbox to turbo pipe,which covers the aircon pump.
This is bolted to the rad cowling which needs removing first.
It also has a smaller pipe on the back side of it that needs it's clamp undoing, plus a small pipe clipped to it in 2 places.

It also has a clamp at the other end, that is a bitch to get to. If you zoom in on the pic you can just make it out.

Jobs yet to do:
The ribbed belt will need to come off, though not entirely.
I might have to remove a coolant pipe, we shall see.
Then unbolt the aircon pump. Whether I can actually remove it completely is questionable at the moment.

Jobs being avoided:
To actually replace the belt you need to remove a pipe on the drivers side as it's support bracket is within the belt. Also remove the cooling fan belt, which is a stretchy one, and is usually cut to remove and replaced. That means rad and cooling fan out.
Trying to avoid having to do that

Rain has eased, back it

Job completed.
Can't tell if it's fixed it yet as i have to wait until Monday to recharge the aircon.

I followed the workshop manual instructions,but didn't disconnect or remove anything to do with coolant.

I have more pictures but can't upload them Rolling Eyes

With the plastic inlet pipe removed, I took the ribbed belt off. 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 22mm socket made light work of it.

Next, the top aircon pipe was unbolted from the pump, and the retaining bolt on the front corner. I just rested the end in the space left by the airbox.

Now the bottom aircon pipe. Undoing the retaining nut from the pump is the easy bit.
The pipe runs across the lower front of the engine, and is held in place by 2 studs.
Before you can do this, you need to remove at least one end of the turbocharger bypass hose by the valve. I just undid the end on the connector to the pipe that goes up to the turbo, and pushed the pipe out of the way.
Now you can get to the retaining studs with a spanner (can't get a socket in there). I used a ratchet spanner.
On top of the pipe is also some wiring, so you have to remove the 10mm nuts for them first, then the 13mm studs.
Now you have the slack to remove the pipe from the pump.

The manual says to remove the long bypass hose. I couldn't get on the clip as it had presumably been done up with the engine out of the car. This was to cause a lot of problems.

So now I could remove the aircon pump.
You can undo and remove the bolts as you go, as the pump sits on bushes to hold it in place.
Top bolt out is easy with a suitable socket extension.
So is the lower bolt.
The rear one however is a nightmare because of that damned hose.
The manual says to swing the plastic inlet hose out of the way, but I couldn't do that.
I therefore had to get creative and used a selection of tools, sockets,spanners,different length extensions etc. It took me over 30 minutes to get this bolt out, and then the same to get it back in afterwards.

Anyway, with the bolt out you can lever the pump off the bushes, andwith a bit of effort rotate it so you can get to the pcv (yay).
I unplugged the connector, and removed the retaining circlip, plus gave it a clean with some brake cleaner.
I then attempted to remove it by levering against the connector. Not enough room.
Got out some special pliers I have and tried a strait pull. Connector head disintegrated. Feck ! Rolling Eyes

So now to remove the pump, I had no choice.
In order to do this you need to remove the connector. You can't see this from underneath, but you can see the cable is secured to the back of the pump with a push in clip. Wiggle that to pull it out.
Now from the top you can rotate the pump to get a clear view of the connector and undo it.

The pump come's out towards the front, and up. Fiddly to do, but not too bad.

To remove the pcv I screwed a wood screw into the end and used a pair of pliers levering against something to pull it out. It came out easy.
There is still a bit of oil in the pump so I used this to coat the o rings before fitting the new one.

Refitting is a reversal, and went pretty easy (aside from the rear bolt as already noted).

Would I do it again ?
Sure,if I had to. No special tools required, just time and patience.
I reckon it took me about 5 to 6 hours. If I didn't have the issues I reckon I could easily knock 90 mins off that.

If I can get the pictures to upload I will put them in my gallery.
I can't figure out how to post a pic from there into here though.

Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black

Last edited by John w on 11th Aug 2018 12:12pm. Edited 1 time in total

4th Jan 2023 6:38pm

Jayk69

Member Since: 08 Feb 2018
Location: Daventry
Posts: 601

2012 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Barolo Black

any updates and finished pics? 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

2nd Feb 2023 3:16pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Hi,
Yes, finally the car is ready and run perfectly. A lot of money and time but very happy with results and a new challenge acomplished. During the process I thought plenty times about all the mechanics that work in these type of complex machines...respect!!
Brake disc also painted with Cerakote and a friend made the vinyls of calipers.
After recharging AC and align the wheels I test the car, very smooth and pleasant, no more chirrups of pulleys.

Click image to enlarge

Last edited by shinchan on 2nd Feb 2023 8:44pm. Edited 1 time in total

2nd Feb 2023 8:30pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

That's a massive task you've undertaken there, well done on seeing it through - even in a specialist refurb. workshop it'd be a daunting task, be proud of what you've achieved.

2nd Feb 2023 8:39pm

shinchan

Member Since: 05 May 2015
Location: santiago de compostela
Posts: 109

Thanks a lot! Now I´m preparing the second shot, rear subframe.

2nd Feb 2023 8:49pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3073

2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Baltic Blue

That’s a great achievement

I’ve just finished doing a huge amount of restoration work on my 2007 SC and have only just got it to a point where I’m happy with it now. Including the rear subframe. I rebuilt the top end of my engine too but didn’t do the subframe. That’s on the to do list at some point.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic57991-270.html

I love seeing people putting this much effort into cars and preserving them

I hope you have many more enjoyable miles in it now after all of your efforts.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

2nd Feb 2023 8:54pm

Page 4 of 5

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum