Gotcha! Thanks
Non broken As above, short, sharp pull and it came off nicely
If anyone is reading this in order to get tips for changing the rear spoiler brake light and they have a factory fitted reversing camera then you need to undo the connectors for that and pop the grommet out too. That will then give you more slack to lay spoiler on a towel on the roof. Swap out light and feed brake wiring and grommet through a tight gap in the spoiler. Used silicone spray grease to aid. Feed back through the tailgate hole, reinsert grommets and then refit spoiler. Wiper arm will need to be a 6 o’clock to do this by opening tailgate mid sweep. Best to do this before starting anything to be honest . Then reconnect all wiring and refit trim
Brake light wiring is top one.

wayneg wrote:

adara wrote:

The seal ring is inside the plastic piece here:

just finished a refurb on my rear wiper motor, on inspection from the inside, there is an o ring at the inner edge, the arrow in the quoted picture points to it. Mine had disintegrated and was the obvious reason for the leak and subsequent seizure. I found a 16mm x 9mm x 3.5mm cross section o-ring that fits into the recess and seals against the shaft perfectly

Hi Wayne, was the o-ring shaped like the one below, where you have the nitrile rubber either side of the hole ?





https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/seals-o-rings/0749581/

or a different profile ?

Hi,

I have been having a problem with my rear washer jet, no motor noise on pushing the stalk. I replaced the fuse and it is no functioning again, with water getting through the NRV, so much so, that it popped the hose off the plastic elbow on the motor.

There is a thick brown rusty liquid seeping out of the washer nozzles above the wiper blade now, with no force. I have tried to put a needle in the nozzles to open up the passageway, but it doesn’t seem to have worked.

Seems that the fuse had blown as the motor is blocked with rusty crud.

Do I need a new motor or to repair the innards of the old motor, is there a link to the replacement o-ring and a suggestion as to the best place to buy a replacement motor for L322 2011?

Thanks very much for a very helpful thread.

James

Me again! Sorry

I replaced the motor on my L322 2011 plate, but still no water coming though the rear washer. I have replaced the non return valve with a new one and also tried directly connecting the hose to the motor, to bypass the valve, just to see if this was the problem. Still no water getting through to the rear wiper/screen.

When I removed the wiper arm to replace the motor, I put a wire through the nozzles and back to the arm spindle to ensure they were clear.

I am lost as to what else I need to do to get water to the rear screen. The front washer works, so there is water in the bottle!!

Any ideas learned ones?

Thanks
James

Jim,
do you get water out of the hose without the NRV or motor attached at all? Just put it in a bucket on the parcel shelf and test.
The motor has nothing to do with pumping the water and the NRV is a simple thing, just take them both off and see. If you get water from the first hose, then you know you have a gunked NRV, hose or motor.

Try poking a wire down all water holes but do not poke into the NRV against the direction of the NRV:

From the outside poke through the centre hole. Through both ends of the hose from NRV to motor, and in the hose from NRV towards reservoir. Just check all areas you can get to.

Check fuses for wash wipe.

The spindle inside the motor has the channel for the water to flow, and this can get gunked up too.

Mark

Rear Wiper has just started to play up. Washer fluid on the rear parcel shelf. Cleaned up nicely with carpet shampoo. Also noticed that the rear wiper blade failing to make contact with rear window. Started to investigate today. Trim covering the wiper unit came away with gentle pulling. Found that the washer fluid feed pipe had separated from the unit where it connects to the wiper unit spindle. Reconnected and tested for fluid and wiper operation - nothing. Should I start with the fuse or, assuming the unit is clogged and jammed at the spindle, remove the unit for de-gunging and lubrication. Any thoughts or advice welcome. Having read the experience of fellow RR travellers to date, I have some foreboding as to what lies ahead !

Sorry for reviving an old thread.
I have followed these instructions today and stripped my rear wash motor. I have no problems with the fluid but the motor just clicks and doesn't move the arm. I figured it was the cog but it looks fine. Time for a new motor? Front wipers and headlight wipers are fine but I replaced fuse 41 in the cabin fusebox any way with no joy.

Thanks, in advance

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Mine stopped working so I stripped it down and found it full of brown sludge. Cleaned it all out and filled it with lithium grease and it still doesn’t work. However I am getting an error message on IID tool saying it’s not parked so I think I might’ve put it back together wrong. 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Thanks, yeah, I think I reassembled it correctly, all the mechanical cogs move freely but the fact it's clicking and not turning makes me think that the motor itself has seized 👎🏻

Super helpful post again, thanks to everyone for the images and tips.

Managed to remove the trim without breaking any lugs, and cleaned out the water pipes and nozzles such that I now have a working and very strong rear washer again. Nothing more sinister for me with one way valves or anything, and all looks beautifully clean in there so far...

Noting Dr. Rob's additional comments above, I do have a new rear brake light to fit as well - now I know how it all comes apart will do that when I have some more light to work in, given I was doing tonight's attempt under the garage floodlight!

Has anyone tried this on a MY11 before I start stripping it down? I have the internal leak out of the motor shaft.

It looks like the part number changed to LR010920 for 2009+

I have. Same basic assembly but the electrical connections are somewhat different. I drilled out the shaft to 6.5mm and fitted a hose through it directly to the factory jet connection. Copes fine with the amount of movement. I was going to use a new seal but the shaft was too worn to seal.