Hi, I wondered if anyone could shed any light on all the fault codes attached in the picture.
There are 7 in total and only flag up if you throttle hard through the gears (redline)..
It is a 2011 4.4 tdv8 and once you hit the redline, it goes into restricted performance mode.
Once I clear the codes, all is fine again until you hit the redline..

There's no picture attached. Also, not sure why you're reaching redline? Even when towing and accelerating fairly hard, mine rarely goes above 3,000rpm.

However on the 4.4 TDV8, it's usually related to intake issues. The symptom will be a full DPF (eventually).

A) dirty MAP sensor. Remove the engine cover and clean the sensor and the well every 1,000 miles (just 1x T20 screw). This gets really gunked up

B) failed o-ring inside the plastic pipe connection on the throttle body - check for oily soot in the vicinity or if you wobble it and it's not steadfast. Diagnostic / temporary fix is to use gas spec PTFE tape or silicone tape wrapped around the throttle body union

C) A split donut hose or top intercooler hose. Check for splits in the small 4 hoses on the donut and the 2 large ones near the front of the engine bay. A length of 70mm 3mm hose can be used to replace the 4x donut hoses, and the 2x top charged air hoses are available cheaply from various suppliers on ebay

Occasionally there is a split donut (intake manifold) or rocker cover, although not common. Worth checking the free/cheap bits above first. Next best course of action is a smoke test to identify any leaks. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Last edited by garyRR on 24th Jan 2023 2:32pm. Edited 3 times in total

Sorry I forgot to upload.

Thanks for your suggestions, it gives me somewhere to start.

I don't want to redline it, but I want everything to be correct and have no faults.

Read the diagnostic codes? I'd not set foot in my L322 without my GAP IID Bluetooth. Guessing game otherwise.
Gary's pointers are spot on but also get codes read by a good, reliable, independent specialist if necessary e.g. Glenrands, New Forest Garage Services etc. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Apologies, I am new to this forum so I have only just worked out how to add the photos of my codes.

Loads of info on the common P040D code (Exhaust manifold temperature sensor on passengers side, UK) but it won’t cause the RP. It can affect DPF regen (allegedly) and there is a diy guide on how to change the sensor in the Wiki area of this forum. I’ll let you peruse and decide if you get a specialist to do it...like I did
Personally, I’d get it to a decent local specialist and leave it with them for a proper diagnosis. I can highly recommend Glenrands in east Hampshire but others around you too e.g. New Forest Garage Services in Cadnam. Tech there is highly experienced and regarded on here  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

You can also download the workshop manual off the Wiki which has a chapter on Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Thank you DrRob, I drive through Cadnam to work so I will look that garage up. I prefer to do the work myself but I did not have the knowledge to know where to start with all the codes.

Usually a lot cheaper in the long run to take it to someone who really knows these inside and out.... Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

if you are ok with the spanners with the exception of the P0040 code i would be inspecting all the induction hoses for loose connections, improper fitting and cracks. if you dont have the equipment it would be worth a garage running a smoke test. Manly due to this not happening until you redline.
I would also check all vac hoses too.

the P0195-00 code would worry me a bit too it is classified as medium to severe risk for the cost of a new one i would replace and check all the wiring to make sure there is no damage + check cooling system is holding a stable temp.

Problem is it is only happening when the car is under extreme load so just a visual inspection may not reveal anything.

I cannot remember the last time i even got to redline my car, if i prod the throttle hard by the time i hit 70 car still has 2 gears to go and i have probably not got past 3500rpm! Even when towing my TA caravan i don't think i have gone past 3000rpm  2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Update - My restricted performance issue is fixed. I spent yesterday afternoon stripping down the inlet plenum, cleaning it all including map sensor, butterfly etc and replacing the four rubber hoses. It now runs perfectly and seems to be a lot more responsive.
Thanks for all your help.
Next thing to fix is the parking sensors.

Were the hoses split?
Replaced with silicone? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

The front right one had been replaced with a silicone one, but not very well as there was soot alround the perimeter. The rest were original and not showing any signs leaking but I replaced them all with silicone. Cost me a grand total of £13 for 300mm and I just used a jubilee clip to cut 4 lengths at 55mm. Good result.