Next on my list is a full under car waxoil which has been recommended by a few people who have seen under my car, the latest being Bodsy who came over last week.

Overall it’s in decent condition with the usual surface rust but it could do with some protection for the future it seems.
How long does it usually take?! Any and all tips welcome.

If you have any recommendations of places that do it in the Essex or Herts area that would be great. 2009 pre-facelift 3.6 TDV8.

My tip would be avoid waxoil. Have a look at Lanoguard. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I'll second don't use waxoil, they were the market leader 30+ years ago but have not updated anything since...

Far better products out there...

I like the sound of Lanoguard but they advise you do it every year which seems a bit of a faf...!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks. Ideally looking for someone to do it and it to last longer than a year unless that’s unrealistic! 2009 pre-facelift 3.6 TDV8.

Although relating to Defenders, this thread provides loads of general advice 👍

Although it’s over 10 years old, the more recent posts provide advice on the latest products, Lanoguard etc.

Zagato comes highly recommended if you want to pay someone to do it and does all sorts of vehicles, not just Defenders.

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html

If you can wait a couple of months for the update I’ll let you know how it goes. Zagato is doing my 2010 RRS in March. Graham

____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey

Thanks. Yes please update this thread if you can.

Is there a link to his website or an email for him/them? 2009 pre-facelift 3.6 TDV8.

Will do. Had a long chat with him about the car and everything that needs doing. Seems to be very knowledgeable about what works and what doesn’t.

Website has his contact details
www.ccautomotive.co.uk

Chris Calvert. Graham

____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey

As a former defender owner, I had success with Dintrol but only if I used something to kill/stabilise the corrosion first and if required use mechanical removal followed by something like the buzzweld products to paint prior to coating.

Currently using Lanoguard on the L405 and it doesn’t even last a year in my experience, but easy enough to spray on in a spray bottle and it’s actually nice because it allows for regular inspections when you renew it.

Personally I’m always wary about buying a used car that’s been wax oiled, have viewed one two many defenders where it’s just been either used to hide corrosion or has been applied without first cleaning up and the rust has just eaten away under the wax oil.

Dintrol et al all have some kind of rust converter for the worst, and the cavity wax’s are suppose to help stop existing rust, I used the ML underneath the final coating and used to scrape random pieces off the defender to check and it always looked great. Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

I had mine fully treated with Dinitrol underneath by https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/

The car was stripped of the plastics, thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated then coated including in the box sections/sill cavities. It was quite expensive but worth it for me as I plan to keep the car long term.

Dinitrol needs to be redone every 3 to 5 years depending on use as I understand. TDV8 4.4 2012

TJH, I was speaking to a local firm called Chassis Seal NI. He specialises in doing Landrover Defender chassis' prior to restorations. He has been using Dinitrol for many years and apparently the new Dinitrol product has a rust inhibitor / convertor built in, making it a single stage application. The process involves pressure injection spraying inside the chassis box sections, then plastic arch liners removed, brake pipes and flexible masked to enable underside to be sprayed. Process takes 2-3 days and I was quoted £850. He said it is a one off application and he would never expect to need to reapply it.

He previously worked for a bus company applying it to buses every 5 years and he said even after 5 years of bus miles, they were like new underneath. I thought it was expensive but Lanoguard kit is £135 and you have to apply it yourself. And it needs reapplied every year or every other year. I guess it depends how long you plan to own your FF too.

Ramblin Man wrote:

I had mine fully treated with Dinitrol underneath by https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/

The car was stripped of the plastics, thoroughly cleaned and pre-treated then coated including in the box sections/sill cavities. It was quite expensive but worth it for me as I plan to keep the car long term.

Dinitrol needs to be redone every 3 to 5 years depending on use as I understand.

Proftinkerpot wrote:

TJH, I was speaking to a local firm called Chassis Seal NI. He specialises in doing Landrover Defender chassis' prior to restorations. He has been using Dinitrol for many years and apparently the new Dinitrol product has a rust inhibitor / convertor built in, making it a single stage application. The process involves pressure injection spraying inside the chassis box sections, then plastic arch liners removed, brake pipes and flexible masked to enable underside to be sprayed. Process takes 2-3 days and I was quoted £850. He said it is a one off application and he would never expect to need to reapply it.

He previously worked for a bus company applying it to buses every 5 years and he said even after 5 years of bus miles, they were like new underneath. I thought it was expensive but Lanoguard kit is £135 and you have to apply it yourself. And it needs reapplied every year or every other year. I guess it depends how long you plan to own your FF too.

Good to know, I’ve always used a fine covering of Dinitrol ML and then overcoat with Dinitrol 4941 as AFAIK on its own the 4941 was just a coating. Do you happen to know which new product he’s referring to? wouldn’t mind doing the Skoda.

The main reason for Lanoguard on the L405 is just the ability to remove it / see through it when it comes to selling it, as above I worry with anything that’s black that people would get nervous that it’s hiding something or that’s it’s a particularly rusty example to require it. There’s not as much on the L405 to cover to it’s easy work, I make a habit to do it whenever I work on it.

I buy Lanoguard when they have a sale  Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

I'm not sure what particular product he was referring too. Hopefully there is info on the Dinitrol site. My plan was to ask him to take a series of photos before and during the application process so I will have a record to prove the chassiscwas in good order and not applied as a cover up.

I think it’s different if it’s done by a reputable outfit, presumably they would want anything rectified prior given its their own reputation on the line as well vs my lathering it with something on my drive  Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

Last edited by TJH1985 on 23rd Jan 2023 10:56pm. Edited 1 time in total