Hi can anyone advise on accessing the FBH changeover valve on a 2011 TDv8

Thanks

Phil

There's loads of info on the FBH Changeover Valve on this thread:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61127.html
Give it a good read through, it covers loads on the Heating System.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I've read through the linked post, variously it talks about the valve being on the left hand or right hand of the engine bay (maybe it depends upon how you are looking at it!

If I may repeat the original question I would be interested to hear from anyone who has repaired this valve on my specific model. How did you access it?

The FBH Changeover valve is located on the inner wheel arch on the LHS of the vehicle if you are looking from the front of the vehicle into the engine bay. It is not difficult to access, but it is fiddly to remove from the mounting plate.
Can I ask what problem you have that requires needing access to the FBH Changeover Valve?
I'm afraid that there are no repair kits suitable for the FBH Changeover valve, it is a case of getting a new one or a 'functional' second hand one.

Thanks again for responding, I will take a look for it tomorrow. When you say on the inner wheel arch is it accessible from the top of the engine bay, underneath or through the wheel arch. My symptoms are that it is not closing hence the fbh is trying to heat the whole block during parking heat operation. My understanding was that half of the heater (dual) valve kits would effect a repair but I’m here to learn.

Hi, sorry for the delay in responding. The FBH Changeover Valve is accessed from the engine bay. If you have a look on the wheel arch to the LHS of the engine you will see it bolted to the arch. There aren't any specific repair kits for the Valve, most kits are for repairing the twin heater control valves. The Changeover Valve is different in that it has a different piston setup inside. I managed to hunt down a cheap genuine valve, after having purchased a 'repair' kit which didn't work.

Thanks again for your input and the info that you can’t repair using seals from the dual valve kit. I’ve seen the genuine valve at over £300 and copy parts at 1/10th of that. As it’s not exactly a crucial part I’m tempted to have a punt.

Any thoughts?

That's a dilemma, how long does it take to change, if not long maybe worth a punt...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

That’s a good point. I will have a proper look at the location before ordering

That Valve, part no. LR016848 will fir your Fattie and should work ok. It's the same Part No. as the replacement valve I got when I had the problem with my heater. I was lucky enough to get a genuine one of fleabay for £140.00, but the cheaper ones will be pretty much the same quality as the genuine article.
Fitted it and all good. You will need to remove the valve with it's mounting bracket and swap the bracket onto the new valve. You will need to be a bit careful not to lose too much coolant from the disconnected hoses as bleeding the system can be a bit fiddly. You can also top up any lost coolant by pouring fresh coolant into the disconnected hoses prior to connecting to the valve.

Westridge177 wrote:

My symptoms are that it is not closing hence the fbh is trying to heat the whole block during parking heat operation.

I also want to fix it permanently in the open position, how did you manage that? Just disconnecting the valve? 2012 Range Rover TDV8 4.4

Here you can read how I do it
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic41448-45.html

jaguar3 wrote:

Westridge177 wrote:

My symptoms are that it is not closing hence the fbh is trying to heat the whole block during parking heat operation.

Why you dont like the engine block is also preheated?
I doing exactly the same thing with my valve, fix it in open position forever.

Yes, thats true, RR have too big cabin, engine block, wrong air direction, so 20min (with older soft 30) heating time is not enough.
Yes, with -20 it will heat the block automatically. We also here almost never get -20 and below, but what about -10, -15, -19? Its already cold start and hard for the engine. To avoid that, I fix it permanently in open position to pre-heat the block.
Two heater control valves always stay open until you have too warm in the cabin and need to reduce the heat (FBH will anyway shut off in this case. FBH can not work with closed valves due coolant circulation will reduced/blocked by these valves).
In my opinion, there should be double battery and adjustible heating time, up to 1h. Only then you will get perect pre-heating system, for the cabin and engine block. Jump in and drive.
And even then, the direction of airflow is set to the windscreen only. Due cold windscreen, the air also cool down and not heat ut the cabin well. All must be open.
By the way, dont think if you will restore the changeover valve, you will get warm cabin. No, even when 100% heat directed to the cabin, it stay quite cold due short working time (with -5 already). Maximum, you will get windscreen open, but not warm cabin. And there is nothing to do with that, weak system. Thatwhy I rebuild mine compleatly.