I have a diesel fuel smell that seems to be coming from around the near side of the engine bay, possibly from fuel filter area.

Has anyone else had this if so what are the possible causes to explore ?

I intend to replace the fuel filter anyway but I'm not sure if this can be done with the filter unit in situ or does it need to be removed for access ?

Info gratefully received.

2011 L322 4.4 RR owner

You can do it in situ, but the job is much easier if you take out the N.S. air filter box first. (5 minutes max) extra work ).
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

The fuel cooler is to the left (when viewed from the driving position) of the fuel filter. It cools fuel unburned returning from the engine. I would check the cooler and all the fuel hoses - they're all the quick release type so I would also check they're all firmly clicked in place.


Also check the filter for any resiue around the housing, the filter itself, it's plastic securing nut (the big plastic thing you put a strap wrench on) or on the underside of the filter, which is where the water separator is - it's entirely possible this is leaking or is faulty and is triggering a water release when it is in fact fuel.

Also, if you don't know when the fuel filter was last changed, it might be worth doing anyway and this gives a good opportunity to inspect everything else.

You can remove the fuel filter in situ but it does require spaghetti arms. As suggested by Baltic Blue, quickly removing the airbox makes life easy. Follow step 3 in this guide I wrote for replacing the air con compressor. Ignore photos 2, 6, 7 and 8 under that step. All you need to do is release the glow plug assemply, disconnect the MAF Sensor and loosen the one jubilee clip then pull the airbox out.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post635799.html#635799 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Gary, thanks for your very helpful info I will check everything you suggest after removing the air box.

The present filter has no manufacturers name on it and is blank? it is also has a light covering of residue on it which suggests that I may be looking in the right area and I will replace it with the genuine thing.

Also is the water separator an integral part of the filter or independent of it, if so is it easily replaced ?

I intend to work on the job this weekend and will duly report here. RR owner

The water seaparator unscrews from the bottom and has a little O ring on. It may be damaged or faulty or not tight enough. If you need a new one, they're easy to get.

If the fuel filter has residue on that makes me think it's not secured to the housing correctly - either not pushed on sufficiently, the seal has gone or the securing nut (big plastic thing) isn't tight enough.

You don't need to buy genuine - the OEM one is MAHLE KC 521. It's about £40. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Finally found time between domestic chores to replace the fuel filter, Mahle as suggested ,£40 Ebay.

I initially intended to tackle the job as per a U tube Demo by removing the filter and mounting after disconnecting the fuel lines and electric connector. However after experiencing difficulty unsnapping the electric connection and fuel lines which
seemed to require more brute force than I was prepared to risk I decided to do the job in situ by removing the top half of the air filter box, exposing the filter itself, pulling the box away from the inner wing mountings which left enough room to get my hand around the fuel filter to unscrew thereby omitting the need to disconnect fuel lines.

It took quite a bit of force to pull the old filter down from the fitting and I noted where the keyways were positioned intending to position the new filter in the same place, however there was no way it would fit in that position but the new filter slipped in easily when rotated round an inch or so and duly screwed in place.

Therefore, I believe it's possible the old filter had been ill fitted in the first place resulting in the leak that caused my problem fuel smell ? Anyway all's well that ends well and my previously smelly engine is now sweet again.  RR owner

Glad it's sorted misaligned filters is a common problem, do it to the oil filter and it can wreck the engine..!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
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garyRR wrote:

The water seaparator unscrews from the bottom and has a little O ring on. It may be damaged or faulty or not tight enough. If you need a new one, they're easy to get.

garyRR wrote:

it's entirely possible this is leaking or is faulty and is triggering a water release when it is in fact fuel.

It can't be triggering water release by itself, since it's not an actuator, just a 1-wire sensor. Only thing it is triggering is the message on the display, so you can release it by hand.

When it leaks through drain port, it is not sealed properly, when it leaks through the wire connection, it means the plastic core is broken and not hermetic anymore.

I have the latter problem, so need a new separator, which is a real pain to find.

It's not a separator, it's a sensor - the separation is done by physics and the design of the filter.
I'm not aware of it being available as a spare, only as part of the filter housing assembly. I've seen many L322's with the drain screw still fitted, either because someone changed the filter and didn't know to swap over the sensor, or the sensor was leaking and it was cheaper/easier to leave the drain screw and seal in place.
It's very rare to get enough water in fuel between services to trigger a warning, sources tend to be a leaking filler neck / cap, contaminated fuel or a fuel tank kept very low, leaving a large surface area for condensation to form (although this was more of an issue with metal tanks).
Personally, I'd leave the plastic drain tap in place and bleed off the bottom of the filter every two or three months, just for peace of mind.

*I do remember a L322 being brought in due to a 'loose wire that wouldn't connect', turned out the guy had done his own fuel filter change and tried to connect the sensor wire to the drain tap, when we told him he was frantically ringing home to get his Mrs. to get the old one out of the bin which was due to be emptied that day!*

Yep, at the moment I just put the plastic screw and seal, that came with new filter, on and left the sensor attached to the wire and fixed somewhere with cable ties. At least it doesn't leak and no fault codes either. Not gonna pay stupid amount for it. Pretty useless thing anyway.

Would it be worth you having a browse around a breakers yard with a spanner in your pocket?