Have just seen that it's reccommended to change the Brake Fluid every 36 months, the Brake Hose recall was done on my car about 6 years ago, so I'm well overdue, but those Brembo 6 pots and Greenstuff brake pads still work well enough

does anyone know how many litres I need to buy, and I presume the ordinary Comma DOT 4 is still the correct one to buy ?

According to some flushing the brake fluid on these cars is not so easy - plenty of info on here so do a search. I ended up getting it done by a specialist indy. Make sure the bleed nipples on the fronts are not seized before you have a go at it. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

DoT4 is correct, personally I'd push 0.75l through each of the front calipers and 1.0l through each of the rears, using a pressure bleeder (i.e. pressurise the brake fluid reservoir, not vacuum the bleed nipples), I've been doing it that way for many years on JLR vehicles and others with no issues, problems seem to occur when changing components or not using sufficient pressure (2.0 bar seems to be the 'sweet spot') although I've yet to suffer any 'comeback' visits for brake concerns using the above methods.

thank you - I'll order 4 litres of DOT4

I have a friend who has a "Pressure Bleeder" , ex BMW mechanic, so we will have a go and take note of the 2.0 bar being the sweet spot

those M10 brake nipple bolts are not budging, the corrosion is shocking, what cheap bolts they used, have got the WRX spray out and sprayed on, will do again in 4 hours, and again at night, hopefully after 24 to 48 hours ( and maybe more WRX) we may get these out of the Brembo calipers ( maybe not ) , but worth a try

if I can get those four bolts out, I think I will replace with Titanium ones, the sales blurb sounds good - anyone used them ?

-----------------------------------------
Unrivalled anti-corrosion resistance. Titanium takes over 10 years to tarnish the surface and over 40 years to show microscopic signs of corrosion.

Twice as strong as stainless steel. We only use grade 5 6Al-4V titanium in our bleed nipples. With its high titanium content along with small amounts of aluminium and vanadium grade 5 6Al-4V titanium merges its superior anti-corrosion properties with high tensile strength giving you the strongest and most durable bleed nipples on the market.

Lightweight. Almost half the weight of stainless steel and twice as strong.

No more snapped bleed nipples. Saving yourself £100s in the future. Steel bleed nipples will always rust and seize. Its only a matter of time. Once seized they are prone to snapping when the brakes are bled.

Best case scenario, the snapped bleed nipple can be extracted
Worst case scenario, a new caliper is needed costing many hundreds

Our titanium 6Al-4V bleed nipples will never rust or seize
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by pcourtney on 24th Oct 2022 4:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

It's the seats that corrode more than the threads, I prefer to start drilling before they shear off, if nothing else, you have an un-stressed thread and a guide hole....
Get yourself a good quality M10 x 1.0 second and plug tap to clean the threads with, I've used these before where the taper seat is too pitted to get a good high pressure seal https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274684519152

pcourtney wrote:

if I can get those four bolts out, I think I will replace with Titanium ones, the sales blurb sounds good - anyone used them ?

-----------------------------------------
Unrivalled anti-corrosion resistance. Titanium takes over 10 years to tarnish the surface and over 40 years to show microscopic signs of corrosion.

Twice as strong as stainless steel. We only use grade 5 6Al-4V titanium in our bleed nipples. With its high titanium content along with small amounts of aluminium and vanadium grade 5 6Al-4V titanium merges its superior anti-corrosion properties with high tensile strength giving you the strongest and most durable bleed nipples on the market.

Lightweight. Almost half the weight of stainless steel and twice as strong.

No more snapped bleed nipples. Saving yourself £100s in the future. Steel bleed nipples will always rust and seize. Its only a matter of time. Once seized they are prone to snapping when the brakes are bled.

Best case scenario, the snapped bleed nipple can be extracted
Worst case scenario, a new caliper is needed costing many hundreds

Our titanium 6Al-4V bleed nipples will never rust or seize
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think you're right, I need to change the brake fluid more regularly, every 24 months, and change the M10 bleed nipple bolts at the same time, its going to be part of my maintainence regime from now on

Had success in the past drilling out the bore of the nipple and using a stud extractor but it was on cast iron callipers and likley they were not seized as much as they will be in alloy. I'd be wanting to do it on the bench as well and have the tap for a 12mm nipple ready if the threads were beyond chasing out. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

the bench idea is good, and a drilling station to boot - BUT - not without issues, getting out those bolts can be bloody difficult as well - nice blog here on Brembo's on a Suburu - I might be up for it - but Jesus it does seem a tedious time consuming ball ache

https://www.noisymini.com/forester-sti-how...r-threads/

The caliper bolts should be easy enough with a good impact wrench. The thread part is steel/steel. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

One can drill out Titanium. Cobalt drills and lots of pressure and use drill speed as for cast steel. Its awefull stuff to machine, but the right tools will work. Yes you need to take the Calipers off and use a proper drilling machine, or better still, a good universal milling machine. Use wizard machine taps to clean the threads out. A lot of people are seduced by stainless nuts and bolts in the Classic world. Most of the Stainless nuts and bolts one sees advertised are L306, which is soft and Galls into the thread, welding the metals together. Even Stainless High Tensile 13.2 Cap Heads will lock if you do not use graphite on the thread before putting it in. Many people "just try" a Stainless bolt for fit, and it welds itself in and will have to be drilled out. I used to do a lot of Vacuum testing on Stainless vessels, and drilled out many seized bolts over the years. The internals of Nuclear Reactors are a minefield of working with chemically pure Stainless componants. Titanium is fine as long as one knows the pitfalls as well, and I am sure Phoenix in his experience, would agree.

Just use stock HT steel bolts unless you are thinking of keeping the car for 10+ years.... 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

jagracer wrote:

One can drill out Titanium. Cobalt drills and lots of pressure and use drill speed as for cast steel. Its awefull stuff to machine, but the right tools will work. Yes you need to take the Calipers off and use a proper drilling machine, or better still, a good universal milling machine. Use wizard machine taps to clean the threads out. A lot of people are seduced by stainless nuts and bolts in the Classic world. Most of the Stainless nuts and bolts one sees advertised are L306, which is soft and Galls into the thread, welding the metals together. Even Stainless High Tensile 13.2 Cap Heads will lock if you do not use graphite on the thread before putting it in. Many people "just try" a Stainless bolt for fit, and it welds itself in and will have to be drilled out. I used to do a lot of Vacuum testing on Stainless vessels, and drilled out many seized bolts over the years. The internals of Nuclear Reactors are a minefield of working with chemically pure Stainless componants. Titanium is fine as long as one knows the pitfalls as well, and I am sure Phoenix in his experience, would agree.