So just had new tyres fitted by a National Tyre company and used their mobile service.

Before starting he said something like:
You need to lock the suspension. Set it to its lowest height and that locks it otherwise the air bags will burst.

Is this total rubbish?

And later the conversation, starting with me, went something like:
What are you tightening the nuts to?
160 Nm
The handbook says 133
No, all range rover and volvo are 160. I've been doing this 10 years including as a branch manager.
Got handbook out and showed him.
That only applies to small wheels. You've got bigger wheels.
No mention of different torque for different wheel sizes and handbook lists tyre pressures for this size wheel and tyres.
Needs to be higher because the wheels are heavier.
Can you show me any documentation to that effect.
Haven't got anything with me as it's a new van.
He then supposedly messaged the branch to send me proof but nothing has arrived in over two weeks.

Is this more total rubbish? Chris

2014 FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Barolo Black
2012 RRS SDV6 HSE Baltic Blue
and before I saw the light:
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara SZ5
1998 Ford Mondeo V6 Ghia X
1990 Citroen BX GTi
1973 Triumph GT6

Local tyre place asked my mate to put his D3 in access mode before changing his tyres as it was there policy. My mates a mechanic and wasn't happy todo it but said if anything goes wrong it's down to them so did as asked but checked every height setting before leaving and fully tested his suspension.

They could supply and fit cheaper then he could get them for soooo .....

That's about wheel nuts tho......

Yes, and yes.

Makes a change from opening the tailgate and putting the hazards on, though.

Now you know why he is a tyre fitter.

Good to know I've not gone senile yet. Thanks guys. Chris

2014 FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Barolo Black
2012 RRS SDV6 HSE Baltic Blue
and before I saw the light:
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara SZ5
1998 Ford Mondeo V6 Ghia X
1990 Citroen BX GTi
1973 Triumph GT6

Complete rubbish. Hope you've re-torqued your nuts.

It amazes me how people continue to stick to their line to save face - even when they know in their heads they are talking complete rubbish and they don't know. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

My nuts were lowered slackened the next day to the correct tightness. Chris

2014 FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Barolo Black
2012 RRS SDV6 HSE Baltic Blue
and before I saw the light:
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara SZ5
1998 Ford Mondeo V6 Ghia X
1990 Citroen BX GTi
1973 Triumph GT6

In the correct sequence I hope!

They're known as 'tyre monkeys' for a reason, although to be fair, some vehicles with air suspension (Volvo & Audi spring to mind) do complain after the event if not locked or shut down correctly.
Other than over-torquing the road wheel nuts, his abundance of caution wouldn't do any harm - it was just his bit of 'theatre' to show how knowledgable he was and to reinforce his 10 mins. of being 'in charge'.

I always advise them of the tyre pressures & torque setting. It worries me that these large tyre companies still think that they know best - without double checking

Whilst on the general subject, the wheel studs should be 'dry' - i.e. no lubricant, if they are lubricated, you can over-torque the road wheel nuts due to lack of friction, conversely, the hub centre should be clean and a free fit, optionally lubricated with a non-metallic lubricant. It's no good if you have to force the wheel on as some of the torque will be 'used up' pulling the wheel onto the hub centre, leaving the wheel nuts under-torqued.

Some manufacturers do specify 'wet' wheel hub threads, not JLR though.

Yes, all torqued in correct order.

Didn't even ask him what pressures has was doing as i deemed that as very minor and easily fixed. As it turned out the fronts were 37 and 35, the rears 34 and 35. At least they all started with a 3. B post plate says front 33 rear 36. Chris

2014 FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Barolo Black
2012 RRS SDV6 HSE Baltic Blue
and before I saw the light:
2011 Suzuki Grand Vitara SZ5
1998 Ford Mondeo V6 Ghia X
1990 Citroen BX GTi
1973 Triumph GT6

The 'best' worst i've seen was 350kPa all round, they should have been 230 & 200 Front & Rear respectively, delivery pressures were 300kPa so significantly over that - customer was made aware, the tyre monkey said 'it was to allow for the beads settling and to stop the TPMS coming on if they lost a bit' - which was ironic given the vehicle was in for TPMS issues - all four sensors were detached from the valve stems and rolling around in the tyres.....

I had a front tyre replaced on Monday after it was ruined by hitting a pothole. I told the tyre fitter 1 wanted 35psi (a tad higher than normal as I was about to leave on a 300+km trip.
As soon as I left the tyre service, I checked the pressure -yep, high. 45psi.

I’d ooly just checked my wife’s Subaru Forester front tyre after a puncture and it was 50psi! Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

When LR assist came to sort out a puncture on a motorway hard shoulder I asked about locking the suspension in access mode. Chap said it wasn’t necessary and just slid a trolley jack under the back axle. Used an air gun on the wheel nuts and confirmed the appropriate torque setting by ref to his tablet. So no, you don’t need to lock in access.