Hello Guys

Do you drain the coolant from the L322 TDV8 from the radiator bottom hose? Cannot see a drain outlet.

Anywhere else need draining?

I have an L405 workshop manual which shows a drain plug but that may have a different radiator.

I will be filling with a vacuum filler.

Cheers

Just drop the bottom hose off, making sure the pressure cap is off of course!
If you're draining for another procedure, then that'll be fine, if you're doing it to change the coolant, you'll need to take off other hoses to get most of the coolant out - heater hoses for example, a bit of low-ish pressure air will help get more out.

Vacuum fillers are ideal, just don't vac. too deep or you could flip the water pump seal lip which I've seen done a few times on LR and others - sometimes it's better to vac fairly low and do it in two goes.

Thanks Pheonix

I am doing a coolant change. So not sure what other hoses to remove?

The L405 TDV8 manual suggests just drain from radiator bottom drain plug unless the car has auxiliary rear heating which mine doesn't.

I was hoping there was a drain plug so I could catch what comes out to guestimate what needs to go back. Dropping the bottom hose will cause a deluge

Just clamp the hose and ease it off the rad., that way it'll empty the radiator and 'gracefully' empty the engine from the top, once that has slowed / stopped, point the hose into your container and open up the clamp to get more out.

The 3.6 TDV8 has a dedicated drain tap on the radiator and a proper vacuum fill and removal port.

It's a shame they didn't put these on the 4.4 TDV8. The procedure is a little clumsy. The workshop manual says to remove a few other hoses too. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Thanks Gary do you know where I can get a copy of the workshop manual? There are clearly some differences compared to the L405?

At the top of this forum there's the 'Wiki' link. The link to the workshop manual is in there to download.

Then you go Engine - Engine Cooling - Cooling General Procedures - Cooling System Draining, Filling & bleeding.pdf

It shows all the steps. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

I recently replaced the thermostat upper/lower housing and all of the hoses with O rings attached to it, through this process I renewed most of the coolant.

I found opening the bleed nipple and blowing into the coolant reservoir did the trick for me. No special tools here.


IMHO renew the housing/hoses as mine were done before renewing the coolant. SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

Thanks Gary and FFRR14

One more question, am I likely to use 15L of coolant or is 10L more realistic if the system will not fully drain. I imagine the heater matrix etc will still hold some coolant etc. I have 5L of concentrate = 10L mixed and wondered whether to buy another bottle before I start

That is a good question. You'll likely be on the limit. The workshop manual doesn't give any specifications for partial refill for the 2011, it just says total capacity is 14 litres of Texaco XLC.

I would say it's best to be prepared and have more ready in case you need it, seeing as coolant and water are pretty cheap. I'd probably expect around 80% of the coolant to be removed so maybe expect 11‐12L.

Also, just a note that there is a slight difference in the pink coolants. Whilst the standard pink coolant usually conforms to the same standard as XLC, the one used in the 4.4 TDV8 is the purpley/pink coolant, not the more true pink you might get from somewhere like Euro Car Parts. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Thanks again. I am using G12+ Febi. Which I believe is the correct spec. And mixing with deionised water. Never fancy ready mix because never 100% sure you get the true 50:50 mix.

Febi 19402 G12+ is the correct specification. Mix 50/50 with distilled water.

I too don't buy pre-mixed, simply because it's a bit of a con on price! And I always mix manually so I know the mix is exact. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

am about to do mine, going to use Holts Speedflush first ( Toolstation is doing it for £4.07 ) for 250ml, only because I have some grey sludge deposit in my coolant tank reservoir, and want to get it cleaned out as much as possible before using the Febi G12+ ( 50/50 mix with de-ionised water)

also, I have noticed there is a secondary aux radiator behind the drivers fog light, so I think I would like to drain that out and clean the aux rad I as it must be really filthy, if it even still works - so drivers wheel off and the wheel arch liner removed is probably the easiest way to get in there and properly clean it.