Hi all,

I'm fitting a towbar to my 2011 4.4tdv8 vogue. I've seen different electrics listed on various sites and want to get the most plug and play version as long as its not ridiculously priced.

Are kits such as the below what I'm looking for, It seems cheap for a kit with an ecu of sorts and correct plugs?

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/land-rover-range...506pf.html

Also if anyone has any opinions on which actual bar to buy I'd appreciate any insight. I'm considering a flange style rather than detachable due to historic issues with a disco 3 detachable.

Wiring

I also have a 2011. The 2011 has the tow ECU built into the car. All you're actually buying is a wiring harness. So, to that end, the dedicated electrics are actually quite expensive for what they are.

As you're going through the trouble of fitting a tow bar, personally I'd fit the 13 pin harness and use a 7 pin adapter so that way, you can hitch up any trailer.

This is the kit I used (ECS) which was very well made and a straight plug and play. Wiring the socket was also very easy, as all the cable ends are pre-cut and soldered from factory so, no loose strands anywhere.

https://www.towbars-uk.co.uk/shop/wiring-k.../lr01713u/

They also sell the 7 pin version for £7 less.


Tow Bar

Re tow bar, I fitted the Tow Trust tow bar (again from the above company). It is extremely robust but also very discreet. I too don't trust any kind of detachable version (through fear of failure or SEIZING INSIDE THE FITTING!!) but what I liked about the Tow Trust fixed flange bar (along with how helpful a manufacturer they are) is that the cross bar is very discreet and to remove the armature (a bit like a detachable), there's just 2 bolts.

https://www.towbars-uk.co.uk/shop/towbars/...ge-towbar/

Just the sort of reply I was looking for, thanks a lot. I'll have another peruse over the options... witter, tow trust or pct but a review like this helps the decision!

I can highly recommend the Tow Trust bar and if you call their customer support, they're especially helpful. Fitting any tow bar to an L322, please budget an entire day for fitting, especially if you're fitting alone. There's a lot of work involved to fit one but, it's very rewarding when the car is all back together!

You don't need anything more than a jack and axle stands (to support the exhaust whilst changing the brackets over and for lifting the cross bar into place), blanket, some spanners and a socket set. For removing the nuts which retain the bumper on the inside of the boot, I recommend a deep socket set, ratchet spanners or some box spanners (normally used on sinks - very cheap to buy a kit).

I was unlucky enough to have a seized nut on one of my exhaust hangers, so i lost an hour or two messing around with it. Eventually I removed the exhaust bungee, removed the entire exhaust hanger and had to angle grind off the welded nut. I then refitted with a marine grade bolt instead.

I think the bar gave a good middle ground for discreetness, price and durability. I use mine on trailers of 2 tonnes and over. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Last edited by garyRR on 21st Sep 2022 8:09am. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks again... I have seen a detachable tow trust in perfect slightly used condition. Has anyone independent used one of these?

Just to echo GaryRR's comments about fitting a 13-pin and then using an adaptor. You'll be equipped for everything that way.

When I got my VSE it had twin electrics fittied so I swapped to a dedicated 13-pin from PF Jones:
https://www.pfjones.co.uk/land-rover-range...506pf.html

It was a simple swap - just needed plugging into to existing connector. Looks to be a tiny bit cheaper that the unit noted if this is a consideration.

Can also recommend Tow-Trust. Manufactured in UK and you're able to chat with someone who really knows the product if you have any queries. Used there products on several D4s - also due to concerns re LR removables.

Hope this helps.


Regards,
JED

I'd check a caravanning forum because Tow Trust are a major manufacturer and they have a common detachable fitment across most of their tow bars on all kinds of vehicles.

As with any detachable bar, they're subject to being stiff to insert and can get stuck on the tow bar fitting. A quick look at any LR forum will show many threads of people struggling to get the genuine ones back out again! I'm sure however that the occasional preventative grease would have helped in many of these scenarios. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

I will get a 13 pin and adaptor then - seems sound advice.

The PF Jones one was the one I saw and if that is also plug and play with a good review I could be onto a winner.

Unless I'm missing anything glaringly obvious my shopping list is...

Tow trust flange tow bar
Upgraded al-ko ball
Pf Jones 13 pin dedicated wiring kit
13- 7 pin adaptor.

Will that see me good?

- Tow trust flange tow bar
- Upgraded al-ko ball
- Pf Jones 13 pin dedicated wiring kit (as it's dedicated, it should be plug and play (if you take out the spare wheel, you'll see the socket it plugs into tucked inside the boot. You'll also see the grommet the wiring pushes through to reach the bumper)
- 13- 7 pin adaptor.
- bumper guard (mine has saved me already ‐ the guard will bend instead of your bumper!!)

If you don't have an IID tool, it's not a major issue, as your tow wiring will still work but at some point, change the CCF settings to tell the car a tow bar is fitted and 13pin electrics are fitted. This will turn off the rear parking sensors in reverse when a trailer is connected, let the car know to modify it's stability and traction control settings when a trailer is connected and prevent any spurious light bulb out errors. Not essential but to be done at some point. An independent can also do this for you. It takes about 10 minutes. I imagine they'd charge a diagnostics fee for the work. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Perfect, thanks chaps. Have been considering an IID tool at some point as I'm sure it will pay for itself in a year or two anyway.

Only thing i've just notcied about the Tow trust rather than the witter is that the tow trust doesn't seem to have an obvious place to secure the breakaway cable?

It's on the armature.

Here's a photo:

Click image to enlarge

Thanks Gary, that should be fine then. I usually go through and hook back on itself but not a big issue!