Get a module with the same module number and then no coding required 👍

tested it yesterday with iid tool
OX421 camshaft control bank 1 fault
OX4DD bus missing node ABS ECU
and lots of other faults
cleared all the faults except the two above, i think RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

I can't tell you about the ABS fault but since you have issues already then perhaps a new module would sort things out.
The camshaft control fault could be vanos related. But could also be as simple as a camshaft position sensor, which is easily accessible and fairly inexpensive to replace.

i did swap the camshaft position sensors left to right, made no diffrence RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

That doesn't sound encouraging but if all you're getting is a fault code I would schedule (rather than rush to) a visit to the garage for a thorough investigation. If you're not completely satisfied with what you'll hear, get a second opinion too.

My experience with these engines is that no garage wants to touch these engines, land rover or BMW RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Garages are all the same over here, I know. I've been doing my research on who would take on a heavy job on a M62 ff ever since I bought mine. I narrowed it down to three places. When the time came, only one of them came back to me with a quote. Then they took ages but fixed it right. Finding a proper garage for our engines is not easy and much of a lucky draw.
Which is surprising, considering how common these lumps are. But this also speaks volumes about just how much incompetence is out there, unfortunately.

The vehicle drives great but it has lots of faults
While checking the faults yesterday, it told me the battery was low.
When I looked it was reading 13.6, then 13.8, 14, then 13.6 again.
Before I do anything else, I will pull the alternator to bits for a look RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Before taking the alternator apart, for accurate readings I would suggest using a simple voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket instead of the IID or any diagnostic tool. My experience is that diagnostic tools do not always display the correct voltage.

OK i will give that a go RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

vs322 wrote:

To remove the multiplug you need to insert a flat head screwdriver at the end D rind and pull it sideways. Then lift up the plug. There are videos for it, I'm pretty sure. Unbolting the ECU is pretty straightforward. All in all a 2 minute job

vs322 wrote:

Any progress with yours?
If you can find one from a 4.4 V8 petrol, it should be a straight swap; no coding needed.
Several on Ebay and I certainly regret not having ordered one by myself in the first place. But I thought why wait when I can get mine fixed in a day or two for the same money. Never thought the ECU "specialists" would be so incompetent. Worst service ever.

As discussed on this thread, an ABS module repair or replacement will sort your issue. Being in Greece, I cannot recommend you an expert for the repair option but I assume any reputable ECU shop can handle that. A used unit coming from a M62 V8 will need no programming and is a straight swap. The TD6 installed units are identical but they will require recoding which is as simple as changing 2 digits. Provided you have the right tools /software which again, any reputable ECU shop or LR/BMW garage should.
I'm sur I've ran into a web page/forum where the recoding process is being explained but it's been a while...Try searching and see if that would be something you're willing to tackle yourself.

Good luck

Thanks. While I was considering options to buy used one like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/325634430706 on ebay, this and other pages are saying that programming is required...

Will try to send for repair, here in States it will cost you $200 minimum. Will update once done.

For those eBay listings you could ask about the donor vehicle/engine. But they could of course be wrong or unable to provide that info, thus the "programming requirement".
On the other hand, your own module may or may not be repairable. So I suggest you discuss charges with the ECU store. I would certainly prefer having my own module repaired locally and with some sort of warranty even though it didn't work out for me this way.