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dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

2012 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Baltic Blue

Bit more progress today.

All under the boot floor putting things back as they should be.

When the LPG kit was fitted they cut the mounting plate for the jack and now I’m trying to put the car back to original this was one of the things I needed to do.

This is what I was left with after removing the LPG tank.

I drilled the spotwelds off an intact plate from a car that was being broken and was left with this.

I climbed into the boot today and centre punched the holes on my bracket and drilled the spotwelds out. I’m not keen on the idea of welding in the car so I decided to use some M8 rivnuts so that I could bolt this bracket on.

Unfortunately the robot must have had an off day or they changed slightly over the years (bracket was removed from an 03 plate car, mine is an 07 plate) as the holes on the intact bracket didn’t line up with the rivnuts on my car 😩

I re-drilled the bracket for the holes that were far enough out and then elongated the holes that weren’t that far out with a file. It’s not as neat as I’d hoped but it’ll do the job.

I’ll be taking it off again when I paint the spare wheel well so I might plug weld the holes that aren’t needed.

I then moved onto the brackets that go under the spare wheel to mount the compressor to. These were totally missing from my car as they’d been ripped out to get the gas tank closer to the boot floor.

Here‘s the ones on the boot floor that I cut out of a breaker:

I then mounted my compressor to the brackets and put them into the boot on my car so that I could mark out where the fixings to.

After marking out the position on the boot floor I then set about making and welding some new wings to the brackets so that I could reattach them to the boot floor. They need trimming down a bit so they’ll fit properly but they’re on and functional now.

I very, very rarely weld as my brother is a coded welder but I had a go at these myself tonight. They’re not the best but once I’ve ground them down and tidied them up they’ll be fine.

My original plan was to use panel bond and rivets to mount them to the boot floor but the more I’m thinking about it spot welding them would be better. I’m just not entirely sold on the idea of welding to the car due to all of the electrics on it.

Time to do some research and see what precautions I need to take. The battery is already disconnected and the alternator is removed from the car but I‘m worried about all of the ECU’s that are still connected.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

24th Jul 2022 8:02pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

Most welders will be absolutely fine, it's only HF start that cause problems, keep the 'ground' (actually +ve on most modern welders) close to the area being welded - have you considered gas brazing? it's not a structural part so will be OK and the temperature is a lot lower.

With a modern welder, the battery is left connected (unless it's in the area of repair) as it's essentially a big capacitor so will absorb any voltage spikes, I don't know what state yours is in so I couldn't say whether it is better as-is or with the battery connected.

24th Jul 2022 8:23pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Other then the heads being removed and a load of things disconnected under the bonnet, everything else is intact and connected on the car.

Our normal mig is way to big for this sort of work and with the 3 phase supply being thicker then my thumb I dug out the small 240v one from the shelf which has the option to have a + or - ground.

I hadn’t considered brazing but it’s not a bad idea. We’ve got the stuff to do it and it would remove the risk of any arc affecting the electrics I guess. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

24th Jul 2022 8:31pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

More parts arrived today

When I made a smoke tester from a disco fog machine last year it left a lot of water vapour on the throttle body which caused it to look like this.

I was going to try and dismantle this one and clean it up as a new one retails at £250 + VAT.

However, a spot of luck on eBay the other night left me with this being delivered today for a total cost of £45.

The other part that arrived today was a new battery for the cars Venture Cam (Wireless Video Camera). The camera on my car was missing when I got the car and they usually fetch £90-100 on eBay. This one was 28 quid as it was faulty.

The usual fault on them is the battery fails due to them very rarely being used and living in the charging dock constantly.

A new battery was ordered from PowerfulUK. Unfortunately the battery arrives with the wrong plug on it so a spot of soldering was required.

I removed the wiring loom from the original battery complete with the thermistor.

I marked up the new batteries positive and negative connector and then soldered on the wiring loom.

Refitting the battery pack to the Venture Cam saw it power on

The camera was then reassembled.

I can’t sit it in the dock yet as I can’t open the glovebox without the battery being connected to the car. I doubt I’ll ever use this but it’s nice to know it’s there and working again.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

25th Jul 2022 7:23pm

Gsxr1250dave

Member Since: 20 Oct 2018
Location: London
Posts: 901

It's the little things

25th Jul 2022 7:48pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

Good find with the throttle body - we were warned off using 'fogging oil' due to the water content, Baby Oil is seemingly a good alternative, although it isn't something you'd want to use for cabin air leaks as it stinks...

25th Jul 2022 7:52pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Yea, I chucked the fog machine and made a new smoke machine from some drainage pipe fittings a few months ago that I filled with baby oil. You’re not wrong about the stench though… it’s horrific when heated! 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

25th Jul 2022 7:56pm

Sandyt

Member Since: 07 Nov 2013
Location: Wraysbury Windsor
Posts: 2266

2007 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Buckingham Blue

dhallworth wrote:
More parts arrived today

When I made a smoke tester from a disco fog machine last year it left a lot of water vapour on the throttle body which caused it to look like this.

I was going to try and dismantle this one and clean it up as a new one retails at £250 + VAT.

However, a spot of luck on eBay the other night left me with this being delivered today for a total cost of £45.

The other part that arrived today was a new battery for the cars Venture Cam (Wireless Video Camera). The camera on my car was missing when I got the car and they usually fetch £90-100 on eBay. This one was 28 quid as it was faulty.

The usual fault on them is the battery fails due to them very rarely being used and living in the charging dock constantly.

A new battery was ordered from PowerfulUK. Unfortunately the battery arrives with the wrong plug on it so a spot of soldering was required.

I removed the wiring loom from the original battery complete with the thermistor.

I marked up the new batteries positive and negative connector and then soldered on the wiring loom.

Refitting the battery pack to the Venture Cam saw it power on

The camera was then reassembled.

I can’t sit it in the dock yet as I can’t open the glovebox without the battery being connected to the car. I doubt I’ll ever use this but it’s nice to know it’s there and working again.

David.

Intersting I need to fix mine as some point didnt know you could get a replacement battery was going to make my own up so thanks David that saved me a bit of time
Everything else is stating to look really good puts me to shame

26th Jul 2022 5:31pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Cheers Sandy

Just wanting to get it finished now! Feels like it’s all taking forever. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

26th Jul 2022 8:02pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Torque wrench has arrived today along with the new head bolts.

Wife says I’m not allowed to play tonight so I’m hoping to make a start at reassembly tomorrow now. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

28th Jul 2022 5:21pm

strongstuff

Member Since: 26 Jun 2019
Location: North Wales
Posts: 44

2007 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Stornoway Grey

dhallworth wrote:
Part of me was a bit gutted that I wasn't doing my own valve clearances and part of me was a firm believer in paying someone to do a job that would mean hours and hours of strip down if I got it wrong wasn't a bad idea.

This morning I got an email from Automotive Comp to tell me that my heads were ready to collect and that the valve clearances are all set. He got them all spot on using tappets that he had in stock which meant that none of the valves needed grinding

I am now 100% sure that sending the heads to him was the right decision as he noticed something that I hadn't and it would have been catastrophic if I'd fitted them!

The cylinder heads for the 4.4 Naturally Aspirated V8 and the 4.2 Supercharged V8 are identical but the 4.4 has variable valve timing and the Supercharged doesn't. This means that there is one critical difference in the heads - the oil ways!!!The Supercharged engine has a bung pressed into the heads whereas the 4.4 doesn't.

I hadn't noticed this when comparing the heads but the chap at Automotive Comp picked up on it and told me about it. I am eternally grateful to him as if I'd have fitted these heads I'd have had no oil pressure. Goes to show you that paying someone who knows an engine inside out to do a job that you're not sure of is 100% worthwhile.

So I'm breathing a sigh of relief whilst eating my toast and drinking my morning coffee today!

He's also going to sort out the silver steel pins that mount the timing chain guides for me so that the heads are ready for refitting when I get them back next week.

David.

Really pleased that Roland was as good as I was told he was!

Can't wait to see this running now, very best of luck with the remaining work. 2008 L322 4.2 V8 SC Stornoway Grey
2006 L322 4.2 V8 SC Java Black

29th Jul 2022 8:11am

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Finally had everything I needed to get the heads back on today

Both heads refitted, new bolts installed and then torqued down as per the manual.

The first pass was 20nm, second pass was 35nm, followed by another pass at 90 degrees, and a final pass at 90 degrees. My new torque wrench wouldn’t do the 20nm stage so I used the 3/8” torque wrench for them before switching to the new Snap-On wrench. The Snap-On one was great. It’s got the length in the handle to make it effortless to use. The final pass at 90 degrees didn’t even feel difficult.

The cams are also lubed up with the caps fitted and torqued in sequence too. These only go to 10nm.

The new timing chains, guides, tensioners and bolts are all laid out on the toolbox ready to sort the timing tomorrow.

Always seems a shame when fitting nice new shiny things to cover them up with the rest of the engine/intakes/supercharger on reassembly.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

30th Jul 2022 7:40pm

Phoenix

Member Since: 16 May 2022
Location: Gone
Posts: 1631

Nice one, the part I like is the hissing & wheezing when you turn the crank a few times by hand before checking the timing - even though you know it's correct!

30th Jul 2022 7:51pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

I’m looking forward to that but I must admit!

Hopefully tomorrow if everything goes to plan!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

30th Jul 2022 10:32pm

dhallworth

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 3113

Everything was about timing this afternoon…

I started with everything laid out on the toolbox so I could identify things as the tensioners for the secondary chains are sided.

After that I pulled up the manual and set about following the process for setting up the timing to a tee.

It was very straight forward, you put the secondary chains on the sprockets then put the sprockets on the cams and put the new bolts into the cams whilst leaving them loose so the sprockets can turn. Once you’ve done this you pull the pin out of the secondary tensioners.

You then build up the LH and RH primary chains by installing the guide, then installing the chain, then you add the guide for the tensioner and then you fit the tensioner. Once this is done you pull the pins on these too.

Once you’ve done this lot you use the special tool from the timing kit to hold the exhaust sprocket stationary whilst you tighten the inlet sprocket bolt to 20nm, then a further 90 degrees. Once the inlet sprocket is tight you do the same for the exhaust sprocket, and then repeat for the other head.

It was very simple and went without a hitch. I then removed the timing tools that lock the cams, lifted the car up and then pulled the pin out of the flywheel.

I then spun the engine over. 1 360 degree rotation of the crank is only a 180 degree rotation of the cams so I spun the crank around 8 times which is 4 complete rotations. Everything moved very freely and felt lovely when turning it by hand.

However, and unfortunately with this car there’s always a “However” 😩… the cams and crank were slightly out of line when I went to repin them.

So, everything was removed and the process was started again following the workshop manual to the letter. The results were the same

These tools should sit flush with the heads. One side was nipped so it was flush, the other side wouldn’t sit flush.

LH Head:

RH Head:

The pin for the crank was also out:

Click image to enlarge

It took fractions of a turn to get everything to line up again when I stripped it but it’s still not right and at the moment I’m not sure what the solution is.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

31st Jul 2022 7:39pm

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