When I changed my rear callipers a few weeks back I ended up just gravity bleeding them as I don't have a 2nd person to help out. I tried using a brake bleeder suction pump but it just pulled in air from around the nipple when it was loosened and I've had this before on other cars. I'm not 100% convinced I did a good job and with gravity bleeding there is always a risk air will travel up the lines instead of out as the flow is very slow. I've read the workshop sequence with 28 pedal actuations etc which is in my circumstances not an option and as I'm going to the garage next week to get an aircon regas I'll get them to bleed and flush the brakes but as they are not a LR specialist is there anything radically special about the braking system that means it should only be done by a LR approved method? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

IIRC you need a diagnostic tool to bleed the abs pump but I doubt you will need to do that...

I always use gravity bleeding, never had a problem with it, I let it drip for a few minutes after any air bubbles have finished, as long as the pedal is "there" and not spongy you are OK... Pete

__________________________________________________
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2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
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The pedal is solid after shutdown and a few pumps to bleed the servo but it's a bit vague when running. I'm changing the front disks and pads next week so may have another go at gravity bleeding. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

My brake pedal always seemed spongy with quite a bit of travel even though the brakes worked fine. MD just changed the front to rear steel brake pipes and I could now fart on the brake pedal and they work instantly. There is obviously a bit of kit they must use whether electronically or mechanical. Worth asking a local MD to do it?
I'm still getting used to how little travel there is and avoiding nutting the windscreen.

……….. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Last edited by Gremlin500 on 9th Apr 2024 10:08pm. Edited 1 time in total

Maybe trip to an MD is on the cards. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44822.html 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

……….. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Last edited by Gremlin500 on 9th Apr 2024 10:07pm. Edited 1 time in total

Funnily enough I changed one of my rear calipers today (and have the original genuine stripped down already to refurb and sell on).

All I did was gravity bleed and pump the brake until hard then secured the bleed screw. A few bubbles were still sat at the top of the hose so, I finished it off by running the engine for a minute then repeating the process. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

…………. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Last edited by Gremlin500 on 9th Apr 2024 10:06pm. Edited 1 time in total

Do 1 at a time. Close the bleed screw each time you can see air running up the tube and have the tube immersed in brake fluid so, if it back-siphons, it's not taking in air. Once one is done and bled, move onto the next one? That way, you're minimising chances of air getting into the system when you don't have all the tools or 2 people to do it.

JayGee has an IID tool - there's an ABS pump purge programme in the app which can be run if needed. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

JayGee wrote:

The pedal is solid after shutdown and a few pumps to bleed the servo but it's a bit vague when running. I'm changing the front disks and pads next week so may have another go at gravity bleeding.

When the local Land Rover specialist replaced my rear brake pipes and the master cylinder, I had to take it back the following day as the brake pedal was softer than it used to be.

The owner said that the 6 pot Brembo setup is a right pain to bleed…. And mentioned the 28 pumps or whatever that’s already been mentioned. He said they would happily have another go at bleeding it. I left it there for the rest of the day and they sorted it. Back to how it was…..

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Funny you should say that mj, had a phone call this morning from mj fews as having my front discs and pads changed and i asked if it's worth changing the brake fluid considering I've had both the front and rears done, so thought why not. But then he said it's a real pain to do and may not be the same as before in regards to pedal pressure. I'm not in the UK at the moment to look through the mountain of receipts i have for the car to see when it was last changed, if it ever was, but being an ex robotics technician, I'm a bit anal when it comes to TPM (total preventative maintenance) not tyre pressure monitor lol.

I don't know why there's this perceived problem with brake fluid changes, it's nothing unusual on any vehicle - there's no special ju-ju involved, it's 'just' pushing sufficient new fluid through each circuit to replace (or in reality, sufficiently dilute) the old stuff. I did my 08MY in May, pushed three litres through it as it was the colour of a hangover p*ss using a Sealey pressure bleeder (lots of dealers of various marques and some independents use them). The only advice I'd give is don't go above 2.5 bar or you risk bursting the reservoir and if you're bleeding a new line or caliper, use the brake pedal to assist the process by pumping a couple of times whilst the pressure bleeder is doing it's stuff.
This has worked with the Audi Q5 (or was it Q3?) brake booster & master cylinder service action where bleeding the rear brakes was a right pain to get all the air out, in that case we also had the engine running so the brake booster was helping to push a volume of fluid through to get any remaining air out.