Hi,
First time poster so apologise if this topic has been covered elsewhere.
I was getting a random fault that popped up every journey. It happened a various time intervals and speeds which killed my ABS, HDC, DSC, suspension lowered and no Terrian Response plus all the lights and dongs! This would clear and reset when you shut off and switched back on.
I read probable culprit was an ABS sensor so i changed all 4. Brought from British Parts and after a lot of difficulty and drilling got them out and swapped. As soon as the igntion was switched to ll all the lights and faults came on immeadiatly. It really did not like aftermarket sensors. So i bit the bullet and brought 2 front sensors from LR. Bingo eveything was ok. Could not buy any rear as there is a country wide shortage, basically there are none in the UK!
Now i have a different issue. Everything is fine when you start up but when i drive all the above faults lights etc pop up. This happens at various times or speeds but always in under say 5 mins.
My Autel Maxidas live data shows that all 4 change speeds up and down at the same time so i guess all 4 sensors are working.
I am really at a loss and would value any help you can offer.
Cheers.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic2582....bs+hdc+dsc

Found a thread (Click on above link ) that seems relative to your car / problems, it may be worth reading as a starting point. First thing to do is to check that your battery is good, a poor battery causes all kinds of fault warnings on these cars.

A good search of the threads and a look at the wiki section ( Top right ) will reveal a wealth of reliable info.

Welcome to the mad house, hope this helps

Hi Merchy
Many thanks for helping me out with this.
It’s been driving me crazy.
I agree that the faults etc in that post are somewhat similar but the only question would be why has this gone phut since changing the sensors. Before changing it was random but now you know it’s going to happen within a few mins.
I have also read on some other forum that these aftermarket sensors can still show as working fine ie the mph goes up and down on a live scan but still cause a world of pain
To be honest I’m a little scared to attack the ABS module I did have a look and could not even see how the power plug came off. My original plan was to weight until LR got some sensors in but they tell me that there is not even a lead time for them
I will try and find a link as to how to pull the plug off the ABS module me thinks
Many thanks again

One more thought, this is most likely a long shot, try a hard reset on the battery terminals, there will be info about this in various threads, may be worth a go, and it won't cost you a penny.

I have used sensors from Britpart before and not had any issues with them, I got mine from LR Parts, Liverpool, may be worth checking one of the site sponsors, Duckworths or Advanced Factors they are both very good.

Have you read the fault codes from the ABS module prior to switching off the ignition?

Graeme5,
I have but cleared them. No problem though as a short drive will soon have them back up.
I will post the codes here for you when done
Regards
Paul

Graeme5
Fault code C1A95-62 is the only code listed.
To be fair I have had different codes come up but this one is the most popular! One code even suggested that the cause is I have the sensor the wrong orientation which is impossible.
Regarding removing the battery.
Some say leave for at least 10 mins before touching the positive and negative leads together so as not to effect the airbags but also some say DO NOT touch the leads together as it will fry the ECU
Any advice on this issue or the fault code welcome
Cheers
Paul

I suggest that you test with one of the non-genuine sensors disconnected at a time to see what faults that produces. Hall effect sensors detect the direction of travel of the passing trigger and the RR's ABS ecu checks the wheel direction so a non-genuine sensor might not operate with this capability.

Regarding touching battery leads together, my test of the theory was to remove 1 battery lead then check the voltage between that lead and the still connected lead in order to get a reading as quickly as possible, but found zero voltage within a second or 2 which meant that any capacitors in ecus had already been discharged. Hence after taking the time to disconnect both leads, touching them together would achieve absolutely nothing.

Mitch2312 wrote:

Graeme5
Fault code C1A95-62 is the only code listed.
To be fair I have had different codes come up but this one is the most popular! One code even suggested that the cause is I have the sensor the wrong orientation which is impossible.
Regarding removing the battery.
Some say leave for at least 10 mins before touching the positive and negative leads together so as not to effect the airbags but also some say DO NOT touch the leads together as it will fry the ECU
Any advice on this issue or the fault code welcome
Cheers
Paul

Hi
Now that’s strange. As when I did a live data reading all 4 sensors ie 2 LR & 2 none all 4 showed the mph going up and down changing at the same time. The numbers just went up 12345 etc. But when I went backwards they didn’t show a negative. I would have thought going backwards they would have read -1, -2 etc.
Does this mean they are all showing the wrong orientation or is that how the read out is ?

Paul

My guess is that the ABS ecu provides the data unsigned to diagnostics rather than the diagnostic tool not showing the sign. It's a short-coming that the fault code doesn't identify the particular sensor.

Phoenix wrote:

WRT the battery disconnect, other than for welding / plasma cutting, I've never seen any manufacturer instruct that the battery leads are connected together as a means of carrying out any kind of reset.