I had an alternator start to fail at about 120k so replaced the lot all pulleys water pump and alternator in one go been good as gold for last 100k agree with the others well worth doing if you have it stripped down

ffrr14 wrote:

Is that a water pump?

firstly i did my water pump when i did all belts and pullies nothing wrong with it but all were original and i have had experience from other brands of bearings failing when doing the same job.

as for voltage on your battery these cars have smart chargers on them and revs are not required to pump more to the battery from my recent experience it can range from 13.2 right up to 14.9. on a really cold day it can take some time before the battery gets priority over running the systems of the car so you really need to monitor when the car is running and warming up. if the voltage varies then Alternator and smart charge system are functional.

I just fitted a new LR battery to my TDV8 and the charge state was not full when i fitted it (Even though it was brand new) and my problems did not fully resolve until i fully charged the battery. in a full charged state my battery shows a voltage of 13.2v i seem to get issues if the charge state is 12.2v or below. When i tested the battery at 12.2v the results were a pass at 90% but that figure takes into account a number of things like cranking power, amps and voltage, when you switch to charge only mode it shows it at 60% charge!! and this led to errors and a number of faults showing. Since i left it to fully charge my issues have gone and the battery seems to be stable at between 75 to 90% charged (Two weeks have passed now covering average driving conditions)
I also noted it takes an age for all systems to shut down a good 20 mins of draw on the battery before it drops to 0.01amps.

hope this is useful 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Ffrr-lover wrote:

I’d personally say it’s best to do it. Stripping down to be able to replace the alternator is a pita job so not having to do it more than once (or twice in your case) makes it worth the expense.
However, looking at my old one it was in good condition for its age/usage.

I could argue it’s wasn’t worth it, but at the same time would kick myself if it failed after all that work

Ok so there seems to be a small amount of play in the old water pump did your old one have any movement in the bearings?

Its looking like i might have to get one ordered

Mine had no play at all iirc. I’ll check a little later and will confirm… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Update
So checking my battery voltage yesterday as i have a drain issue i noticed my 3 month old Denso alternator is doing exactly the same as the alternator i replaced

12.5 at tickover raising to 13.5 at 2000 revs then dropping back when you take your foot off with no difference with all the lights on

So is my new Genuine Denso alternatoy now screwed as well or was my old one ok to start with???

the new one was chucking out a regular 14.5 at tickover when i put it in

This is not a job i wanted to be doing again especialy after such a short time

The system for AGM charging is not a constant voltage. It only supplies max volts when needed and if the battery is charged and there is low load it will deliver less. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Yes but the battery ony had 12.4v before starting and was dropping to 12.2 and as low as 11.9 with the lights on which is what my old alt was doing?

If the alternator has failed i want to make sure 100% before i go changing it again!

12.4v before start is normal 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I got myself an Icarsoft LRV3 code reader and was trying it out yesterday when i noticed on the live readings the voltage.

After clearing the historic fault codes i only have one fault code remaining which is for an egr sensor fault thats actualy in the manifold and seems another common fault on the 2011 tdv8 so i have nothing else to go on except the voltage readings?