Can anyone tell me what the charge volts should be at the battery with the engine running on my 4.4 tdv8 ?

I went out this morning to change the auxilary belts and tensioners as its been squeeling and the new battery i fitted 2 weeks ago is flat so after i charged and started the cari was only getting 12.6-13.6 revving the engine and then dropping back to 12.6 at tickover?
Also no warning lights on the dash

I would have expected about 14v at tickover so is my alternator screwed as well?

I dont have a diagnostic tool yet ive only had the car 6 months and this is my first issue

So before i splash out on a new alternator can i check it with my muti meter

Thanks for any help

Should be around 14.5v unloaded ( no lights, heated seats etc) - sounds like it needs replacing. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Thanks thats what i was expecting but i know these smart alternators charge at different rates

The main noticeable difference is they take longer to kick in from startup.
From a cold start they usually wont start charging for circa 2 mins, then you should have around 14.5 volts with no load on.
Turning a big drain on, eg heated seats and windows, you should still get around 13 volts on tick over rising to 14 volts plus at 2000 RPM. Just be aware if the battery is fully charged the alternator may not put in a full charge as its not required, so best to test form a cold start when the battery requires a boost.

I see mine vary from 13.8 up to 14.9v
Typically 14.2 to 14.4 in summer, a little higher in winter, up to 14.9
My voltage output is not really rpm dependant
So earlier today I saw 14.8 at tickover

I use an LED voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter in the centre console between the arm rests

I occasionally note it takes a few seconds after start up for the shown voltage to rise

NB. The battery management ECU on the MY11 was not designed to keep the battery always fully charged. In fact the battery spends a lot of time at only 80% to 90% charged.

Thanks
Well i have checked some of the leads connections and im still only getting 12.2v-12.3 at tickover when you put all the electrics on its dropping to 11.9v so just not charging

If i rev the engine it will raise to 13.6 and with the electrics on 12.9 it was definately putting out 14v when i got it so its looking like ill be joining the 2011 4.4 new alternator club

i have ordered the fan tools now i just have to get astretch belt tool and the alternator
Maltings off road are doing a new Denso alternator for 250.00 which doesnt seem too bad

Looks like ill be having a fun weekend next week

Worth doing the water pump while you are at it. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I know i will have most of the work done to get to the pump but are they prone to fail then ?

No more prone than any other waterpump but they are not that expensive and why risk it? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Ok thanks i will have a look

I’d personally say it’s best to do it. Stripping down to be able to replace the alternator is a pita job so not having to do it more than once (or twice in your case) makes it worth the expense.
However, looking at my old one it was in good condition for its age/usage.

I get what you are saying although there is not much to go wrong with them except the bearings ill see if i can get it striped to the point of having a good look at the pump to see if its running nice and smooth then if needed i can get one before next weekend when i will be fitting the new alt belts and puleys.

If i decide to leave it and it packs up in the future ill kick myself for you

Ffrr-lover wrote:

I’d personally say it’s best to do it. Stripping down to be able to replace the alternator is a pita job so not having to do it more than once (or twice in your case) makes it worth the expense.
However, looking at my old one it was in good condition for its age/usage.

I could argue it’s wasn’t worth it, but at the same time would kick myself if it failed after all that work

My 112k (at the time) 3.6TDV8 water pump wasn't leaking, but there was fairly significant play in the bearings, so I used the opportunity whilst everything was apart to replace it. Also did all of the aux belt tensioner pullies as they had play and noise..

Water pump bearings eventually fail which leads to the seal leaking. My 4.4's alternator has just failed at 150K Kms so I'll replace the water pump as well as all the idlers and tensioner to avoid any of them failing which could leave me stranded.