Now all my works on the front end are finished I'm about to start on the rear.

Having had a look at everything yesterday, it looks like all the rubber bushes are original and they don't look great. One of them looks as if it's started to turn to liquid as if it's been hot so the plan is to replace everything at the rear in one go too.

The top wishbones look a bit of a sod to get to as you need to lower the subframe anyway and there's some surface corrosion on the subframe so I started to ponder how difficult it would actually be to drop the whole rear cradle in one go.

Looking in the workshop manual it looks like the air lines into the rear air springs need to be removed and then there's the brake pipes going into the rear calipers, and the rear shock absorbers which I'd probably disconnect at the bottom and leave on the body.

The rear diff is coming out and getting sent for rebuilding so I'll have plenty of time to get everything sorted on the subframe whilst it's away. All the bushes and stuff would likely be easier with it on the bench than on the car I'd guess.

So... has anyone removed the rear subframe? Is there a lot more to it then I'm anticipating? It'll be on a ramp so shouldn't be too bad to work on.

As always, thanks for the answers, I appreciate other peoples thoughts.

Thanks,
David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Last edited by dhallworth on 8th Mar 2022 11:39am. Edited 1 time in total

Hi David I have at some time or another replaced all the bushes on the rear as well as the shocks and the brake pipes - it seems logical to replace them when the subframe was partially dropped - its more fiddly than anything and dont forget the electrics to everything. Cant remember there being anything terrible other than the usual seized bolts.
If the worse comes to the worst and it is heavily corroded you can get a good second hand one for about 200 to 250 wish I had done it all in one go
Good luck

Thanks Sandy, I agree, seems a waste of time to go this far and not do everything in one go. Especially now there's not a bush or ball joint on the front that hasn't been changed.

It's going to need the tracking doing as the track rod ends have been changed so might as well do the rear and then have a full geometry setup done properly on it.

I hadn't considered the metal brake lines so good point to check and replace them where necessary!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

What's everyones thoughts on rust treatment for the rear subframe?

Thinking of shot blasting/soda blasting it or maybe a bit more gentle with a wire brush on a grinder?

Then either galvanising/powder coating/painting?

Shot blasting might be a bit brutal?

Would it distort when galvanising?

Would appreciate everyones thoughts

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Seen as you've got the time, space and skill set to remove the subframe I think I'd go and hand it in to a shot blasting place, get them to go through it so you'll find any rust patches. Least that way you'll know where you stand with the frame I guess

Allen

Once you have got it back to bare metal, I would paint it with Galverfroid. It’s brilliant stuff.
Back in my work days, it was used to treat any repairs or new brackets etc. fitted to steel masts , which are galvanised, but the painted cold galvanised bits were as good as any bits that had been hot galvanised dipped.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

That's a good thought, Mike.

There's a couple of tins of Galvafroid on the shelves in the workshop.

A coat of that and then a matte black over the top to keep it looking original underneath would work nicely.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Get plenty inside and it will outlive the rest of the car by years and years.
Mike G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Am watching this with interest David - I am considering the same thing currently.

What brand parts are you using for the bushes/replacement arms. I'd be happy with Meyle from AF but they only seem to do a comprehensive kit for the front. The rear full arms from AF come from Hotbray apparently - had never heard of them before but they seem to do aftermarket parts for JLR.

I decided to with genuine Land Rover bushes to be honest. I’ve spent a fortune but at least it’s done properly.

Got the subframe stripped today so will be updating my other thread soon. Have a look at “Back with another Supercharged” in My Range Rover as I’m documenting the whole process on there.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Excellent. I will have a read. Was dropping the frame relatively painless?

Not too bad.

I dropped it complete with the brakes, etc all intact.

I disconnected the flex’s from the calipers and unbolted them from the subframe. The ABS sensors and brake pad wear sensor were disconnected from the body as were the air lines, and I started to drop it. The only thing I didn’t notice to disconnect was the Emergency Brake Release cable from inside the boot.

I’m incredibly lucky to be doing it inside and on a ramp so I had the car in the air and positioned a transmission jack underneath the diff and dropped it slowly.

There’s pictures of the whole process in the other thread. I’ll be updating it with todays progress again shortly.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Brilliant. Thanks.

I have a ramp etc too so I might just follow your lead here! Its a rusty crusty mess and the tyre has worn badly on thendriver side (wish i had spotted that when I bought it...). Rather than mess around with one or two bushes, i plan tomdo as you have done and renew the lot and forget about it for a bit. Have to do front nearside cv boots and arb drop link too but they arent so much of a pain as the rear end.

I think I've decided I'm going to have this shot blasted and galvanised this week.

It's a solid chunk of metal so am hoping it won't distort or I'll be looking for another subframe

At least galvanising it will do the insides and the outside.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Hi David,

Well done dropping this rusty thing. Might have to do that in a few years to come.
Be aware that if you galvanise it when bushes are removed, you have to ream every hole to the appropiate diameter....Perhaps better to leave them in and remove them later.

Where can I find the other post with photos you mentioned before? Very interested in it

Good luck!! and keep us posted