My shock is 200km driving is 8000km dropped until service…

at this rate, it will be 2000km between oil changes. SDV8 AB MY 2020
MINI Cooper S Cabrio
Kit: Jaguar XK140 (in progress - the website is link to build)

Luxmoggy
Yeh its brutal

I changed oil &filter about 6 weeks ago traveled about 1100 miles to date, and my distance to the next service reads 7800 miles when it should be 14900 miles. Dealership tested oil and confirmed at the previous oil change (which was 5 months after the change before that) confirmed it was oil dilution, so algorithm etc is telling the truth. its not the case somethings wrong.

I am catching every Active Regeneration and modify my end journey to complete the regeneration and still this is happening, can only assume that interrupted Active Regeneration causes extra dilution as in your case.
I am collecting my data and after the next oil change I need to do a few months to collect data without modifying my end journey and record the number of interrupted Active Regenerations just to see if thats the case. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

I will phone the garage tomorrow for a service. I need it soon.

In 20days we are going snowboarding so need the car for 2*700km... where I am sure my average speed will be above 120km/h. Based on my last journey like this. SDV8 AB MY 2020
MINI Cooper S Cabrio
Kit: Jaguar XK140 (in progress - the website is link to build)

When you get the service, Get the dealers to test the dilution % of the oil to compare with the remote app notifications, and ask "How can this happen" how can you sell a car at x kms service interval and only achieve y kms service interval and watch them squirm

Is there something wrong ??? and insist its a complementary service

Good luck and enjoy your holiday. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Service in 2 weeks. They said I can drive the car. For some journeys I will be using another one.

They were shocked. So I will see what they find. As they think this shouldn’t have happened. SDV8 AB MY 2020
MINI Cooper S Cabrio
Kit: Jaguar XK140 (in progress - the website is link to build)

Straying off topic slightly, does any know what the situation is with extended warranties if oil changes are done at home or by another garage?
The reason I ask is that I have a good local garage just round the corner from my house but my nearest dealership is 2 hrs away. I’d be happy for my local guy to change the oil with the annual service being carried out by the dealership, however I don’t want to fall foul if the warranty provider if I ever need something repaired.

Any thoughts or opinions gents?


Cheers

Jon

To stay in LR extended warranty you need to have the services done by either a LR Dealer or a garage that is VAT registered.
So as long as you do your services as per LR check sheets at what comes first, mileage listed or Year listed ie 4Y or 64000miles (as above) then warranty is valid.

Regarding doing interim oil change in between yearly services, by a local garage, that is covered as long as they are VAT registered which most would be.
But you then may need to ensure the service is registered with Topix service history, so does your local have that access?



However the grey area is, if you do an oil change yourself, that is not explained in the warranty booklet.

You are expected to top up oil/coolants etc yourself, so you are deemed competent to put in the correct oil noted in your owners handbook, so you should be deemed competent to remove it yourself

I guess it could be argued that you have it serviced as per warranty and in-between yearly services, you are taking extra precautions to look after the Engine, by doing extra oil changes. Is that significant enough to add to service history? if so how are you going to do that if at all? How would they know anyway?
Any legal people on viewing lol

That point may well need clarifying with the Warranty people. It would be very interesting what their reply would be.
Some people are perfectly competent to do this, but as you know some people are not  2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

im sure i have heard or read someone saying that they were having same sort of problem .....turns out that there throttle body/maf were all gunked up they cleaned it out and all sorted maybe worth a look ?

Would removing the DPF solve the oil dilution problem? Would using 5W-40 C4 oil also help? At my wits end with this. I love the car (4.4 SDV8 Autobiography 2017 low mileage) but the oil/DPF issues are driving me mad. Had a new DPF fitted late last year as it was completely clogged up. Probably the previous owner set it on its way to being like that. Any help welcomed. It is either that or a take a bit hit on the value of the 4.4 and get a P400e

Tony,
Don’t even think about removing the DPF.

Get yourself a Gap iid and “monitor “ the following 4 parameters about once a month.

Click image to enlarge

Get a Vacuum pump and do oil changes yourself in-between your yearly service, its super easy.
JLR only recommend C1 oil
As discussed in your other post removing the DPF will fail MOT and Insurance is void so car could be crushed if you are caught!
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic60839.html 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Baltic Blue wrote:

Tony,
Don’t even think about removing the DPF.

Get yourself a Gap iid and “monitor “ the following 4 parameters about once a month.

Click image to enlarge

This is mine that I have just measured.
It takes 5 minutes.
If the soot level gets up over 17.5g , take it out for a good 20 minutes minimum run 40/50mph.

If the oil fuel dilution figure gets up to 4- 5, change the oil and filter (as Adrian Ajac8 says, ) get a sucker and it’s done in 20 minutes easy.,but make sure you only use C1 spec oil.

I have got screenshots of mine going back 8 years and I have never had any problems.

Mike.

Baltic Blue wrote:

Tony,
Don’t even think about removing the DPF.

Get yourself a Gap iid and “monitor “ the following 4 parameters about once a month.

Click image to enlarge

This is mine that I have just measured.
It takes 5 minutes.
If the soot level gets up over 17.5g , take it out for a good 20 minutes minimum run 40/50mph.

If the oil fuel dilution figure gets up to 4- 5, change the oil and filter (as Adrian Ajac8 says, ) get a sucker and it’s done in 20 minutes easy.,but make sure you only use C1 spec oil.

I have got screenshots of mine going back 8 years and I have never had any problems.

Mike.

C4 has a higher ash content and will block the DPF faster.

5W-40 C1 simply does not exist. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?