I don't have a picture at the moment but with the undertray removed the plug is clearly visible hanging down directly above the centre of the cross-bar on the subframe.

I am going to explain my opinion given my experience as an RR owner.

Turbos fail for various reasons on this brand. Never forget that turbos are pieces and as such, they can break.

Causes to consider:

1. Long idle time of the car. It does not matter maintenance (trusted workshop or official service). The turbo actuators get stuck and cause the turbo to fail. With its corresponding power failure. The solution is to check actuators from time to time and ensure that they are lubricated with copper grease. Do not use oil or WD40.

2. High quality oil must be used and in periods of 8,000/10,000 km. The reason is because a good oil lubricates better. And that helps the oil and drain pipes of the turbos.

3. In normal driving operation. These models require uptime or engine idle. Until you can accelerate the car happily. Start the car and wait until the water temperature is at its optimum point, to burn the asphalt. And when turning off the car after a demanding drive, leave the engine at idle (2 minutes) so that the parts cool down properly and the turbo turbine slows down. (preventive measure according to LR).

4. The most important. LR at the time had the turbo actuators designed by the garret brand. They were much more reliable components than the current mounted ones. LR discarded these parts and chose to place "their model", since they know the method and cost of their turbo change procedure. We all know the result...countless cases of turbo failure. This idea at first is a headache for Land Rover. Cars under warranty that need to be fixed. But they are rubbing their hands at the cost of unsecured cars.

Quote:

1. Long idle time of the car. It does not matter maintenance (trusted workshop or official service). The turbo actuators get stuck and cause the turbo to fail. With its corresponding power failure. The solution is to check actuators from time to time and ensure that they are lubricated with copper grease. Do not use oil or WD40.

Quote:

2. High quality oil must be used and in periods of 8,000/10,000 km. The reason is because a good oil lubricates better. And that helps the oil and drain pipes of the turbos.

Quote:

3. In normal driving operation. These models require uptime or engine idle. Until you can accelerate the car happily. Start the car and wait until the water temperature is at its optimum point, to burn the asphalt. And when turning off the car after a demanding drive, leave the engine at idle (2 minutes) so that the parts cool down properly and the turbo turbine slows down. (preventive measure according to LR).

Quote:

4. The most important. LR at the time had the turbo actuators designed by the garret brand. They were much more reliable components than the current mounted ones. LR discarded these parts and chose to place "their model", since they know the method and cost of their turbo change procedure. We all know the result...countless cases of turbo failure. This idea at first is a headache for Land Rover. Cars under warranty that need to be fixed. But they are rubbing their hands at the cost of unsecured cars.

northernmonkeyjones wrote:

pretty sure the following contribute:

EGR failure
running with a split turbo pipe
poor servicing regime, on milage not time, do it every 12 months without fail, sooner if you drive further.
only use good oils to minimum WSS M2C 913 B
blockage of the turbo oil feed pipe caused by sludge build up because the mechanics are only draining one sump plug not both.
running hot then not allowing time to cool before shutting down.

The second plug can be seen sitting just above the subframe. It's a flanged bolt and is drains the turbo.

Not necessary, but some members like to drain it every other oil change. The challenge is that you'll likely get oil running all over the subframe and then onto the driveway.

No need to prime the fuel filter. The 4.4 TDV8 is self-priming. If you don't trust it, just cycle the ignition from off to on several times before starting the engine.

No need for injector cleaner. Just ensure you take the vehicle on a motorway run regularly - it allows the engine to get to full operating temperature and for the DPF to regen.

Also, every 1,000 miles and at service, remove and clean the MAP sensor (1x T20 screw on top of the donut).



I used to dump the oil but I now use the Draper vacuum pump that many members use, because there's no need for jacks, ramps or getting under the vehicle. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Cheers for that - I've made careful note.
The donut?!?

Plastic ring on top of the engine when you take the acoustic cover off.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

garyRR wrote:

The second plug can be seen sitting just above the subframe. It's a flanged bolt and is drains the turbo.
I used to dump the oil but I now use the Draper vacuum pump that many members use, because there's no need for jacks, ramps or getting under the vehicle.

The turbo of course also cycles through oil so it doesn't necessarily sit there and go old. I think it's around another 100ml (ish) that can be removed, so compared to a 9L fill, the figure is insignificant. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Wasn't the vacuum pump thing so that Dealers could cut their service time periods down by not having to remove the under tray thingies? Not that service prices reflected this...

garyRR wrote:

The turbo of course also cycles through oil so it doesn't necessarily sit there and go old. I think it's around another 100ml (ish) that can be removed, so compared to a 9L fill, the figure is insignificant.

Most likely so for maintenance to the turbo.

The workshop manual doesn't say to remove oil from here as part of regular maintenance, even by the draining method.

Click image to enlarge

No need with modern water cooled turbo’s and synthetic oil to do a rundown / cool down / idle before shutdown but be aware that oil temps lag a long way behind coolant temps on cold start - give it at least 20mins more. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

All great tips.
I know I've never pushed ANY vehicle (last was a Jag XK8 - or DB7 lookalike) in the least bit, even on motorways if using them, at least not until engine temps have been reached, or as far as the half way settled mark on the gauge is showing. But you can kinda feel this to some degree - with the engine not responding as freely (obviously quicker to warm up in hot summer time) until everything has heated up and the oils/lubs are free flowing. I do get that clicky clicky sound near the front fan or rad area especially on cold starts, but it has done that since I've had it - four and a half years now. I've forgotten the name of the part (is it viscous coupling or something?!?) but owners have had the part changed and the sound is back a week later. So I just leave the sound to itself.
I remember years ago some of my neighbours (when I lived in London) even during very cold winters would rev the bejesus out of their cars on cold starts - sometimes for ages... 10-mins etc - and then wonder why and then complain that their vehicles were always packing up or blowing up on them?!? And you try telling them it could be harming the engine, and the daggers are soon heading for you.

If check maintanence history on mine, I can see always new drain plug bolt. So on mine 4,4TDV8 oil was drained from turbo reservior always with every maintanence (of course never know was it really drained or just add to invoice).
Yes, there is about 50-100g of oil only, but better to drain it also. And bolt need to be changed as well in this case.
Separate turbo drain reservior is made to allow drive in offroad conditions with inclination to the sides. Without it engine oil level may be higher than turbocharger in steep slope, oil drain is impossible in this case and will sink the turbo. Separate oil pump pumping oil out from there always during engine running.
The idea was good, but this oil pump location is too high. Thatwhy this system is not effective. When reservior goes empty and pump suck air, it stop sucking. Therefore they made drain mod. Its just bypass straight in engine block. So finally its useless system.