Cheers, will probably buy a multimeter first to check the resistance too.
Thanks guys.
Forgot to ask if I have to disconnect battery or some fuse before trying to check all this.

The suggestion (and a general rule of thumb) is to remove the negative terminal of the battery. I didn't and simply unplugged the connection to the pump, covered it in a plastic bag and tucked away..

PS. You will smell of diesel for a few days Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

It's probably obvious, but use as much fuel as you can before doing this and if you have access to a syphon/pump emptyl the rest. A set of long latex gloves (I have some for chemicals......honest) to keep as much fuel off you as possible helps with the pong.  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

I’m thinking of having a go at this on mine but it’s petrol. An empty tank (or so I’m told) is potentially more dangerous due to the build up of gasses. Any tips to help prevent us gas burners to stop blowing our heads off?!  FFRR 4.2SC/KTM 990SMT Current and cherished.
Honda Accord 2.4 Vtec touring. (Yeah, I know, think: Kids)
Mitsubishi Pajero Evolution Nut-wagon. and a Buell XB12R
TVR Griffith 5.0 (backed up with Vauxhall Carlton road barge for the weekly shop.)
Honda Integra Type R DC2 Possibly the best drivers car. Ever.
Mitshibishi FTO GPX MIVEC.
Honda CRX Vtec Mk2 -NO, Not the del sol!!!
Volkswagen Scirocco GT
Mini 1275GT
MG Midget (Heavily modified)
I'm going to stop now.....

Ok first the pins dint show any resistance, then after cleaning with air spray n few more tries.

Both showed the resistance .32

Turned ignition on and it's working again. Unbelievable.
Looks like the connection is loose or dirty considering the huge amount of dirt/muck in the area.

Thanks for the help guys, this forum is such a huge help.

You won't believe what the indy quoted to change the pump/sender etc. 780 quid.

So I did this fix over the last couple of evenings. Some observations to compliment what has already been said:

1. Getting the carpet out of the way is a right pain - it is very stiff and has tabs under the C pillar trim and is formed around the "step" under the seat bases. I had a real wrestle to get it far enough out of the way.

2. You need to remove the three pipes (flow, return and breather) before you can fully unscrew the knurled ring. The flow and return will leak a little fuel so be ready for that.

3. My knurled ring had the temerity to be stamped "BMW" but that turned out to be useful as I used the stamp as a reference point when re-tightening at the end.

4. There is very little slack in all of the cables. I managed to get about an inch of wire plus the connector out of the tank which made it challenging to hold it and cut, strip and crimp. I only dropped one clamp in the tank! Fortunately I had run her pretty low on fuel (took 70 litres to refill) so didn't have to break out the vet's gloves!

5. Immediately after the repair the fuel gauge reading changed but looked odd (with ignition only on). Once I started the engine the gauge adjusted itself to something more akin to what I was expecting.

6. Note that the engine will run rough for a few seconds until the system has purged the air in the fuel lines.

7. A generous supply of isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner is handy for getting all the diesel off your tools (and hands, arms etc. etc.)

Hope this helps the next guy. Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

Also completed this surgery on my car this evening in the darkness of Scotland. One tip I would recommend is to crimp the ends onto the short wire sections that are within the main harness housing. Then crimp on the longer wire sections that come from the passenger side sender unit. I only changed one connector and this has fixed my issue. I must have only had 10 litres or so left in my tank.

Did the repair on my 2010 TDV8 yesterday. Just after Christmas it bonged 'no fuel' at me near home, so I didn't have to deal with any engine management initiated shutdowns, thankfully.

Pretty much as others have said - I used a ratchet strap to hold the carpet up against the back seats (folded up), I hooked the hooks of the ratchet strap on the headrest supports.

I took out the C pillar upper trim (one torx screw behind the 'airbag plastic cover') then the lower C pillar trim/rear seat side rest by taking out the two 8mm head screws before lifting the carpet.

Getting into the tank was uneventful, getting the pump/swirl pot out of the tank by depressing the spring clip was pretty disgusting given the tank was over 1/2 full. One of the sides of the plastic spring clip had split meaning the spring had gone poing, and the slider was sitting in the swirl pot. Passenger side/jet pump was easy to remove from the tank too. Getting the assembly out of the tank was a messy rigmarole, but I got it out in the end.

I cut the connectors for both sender units out, and soldered the wires together, then insulated with diesel proof heatshrink. Getting the pump(s) into their locating areas was annoying but I got there in the end.

All in all it took 3 hours, working reasonably steadily. Poking my arms into ice cold diesel wasn't ideal, I can still smell the diesel Not a job I care to repeat again!

I have a similar problem with no fuel showing and distance to empty blank.
what are the chances of a dodgy relay being at fault anyone ? RR owner

hi all, so i k ow this is an old thread now but thinking of attempting this fix myself given all of the amazing advice and pictures however I am just wondering......if i take the car to LR dealer along with the bulletin... are they likely to do the fix as per the bulletin or will they tell me i need a complete new assembly and charge me the £1500 to do that. i.e are they obliged to do the fix as per the bulletin even though is not a recall?

So I finally got to the point where I was fed up of filling the tank to the click and the gauge only showing three quarters full. I’d managed to plan my journeys to use all the fuel and get the Rangie home (despite the gauge having gone straight from a quarter full to dead empty and “- - -“ showing as range). So, with an almost empty tank and this excellent guide I opened everything up, only to find the driver’s side has already had the crimps installed by a previous owner.
My passenger side saddle seems only to contain a float, wiring and pipe - presumably to provide its reading to the gauge and for another pump to draw fuel from that half of the tank?
Anyone any ideas what I should look at next? Ultimately it’s not a huge issue as I normally just keep resetting the trip and keeping an eye on distance from last fill, but it would be nice if it was accurate and reliable…

EDIT - having now refilled the tank the gauge is showing full... I'll keep an eye on it, maybe it's just a dodgy connection elsewhere in the loom from the tanks to the gauge? 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
2005 Defender TD5 110 XS: Cairns Blue - Gone but not forgotten