... Oh and I also discovered that there is no hitch with the car, which is a little disappointing.

I guess today was a little disappointing given the prospect that I need to source a hitch and also possibly 3 new PDC sensors.

Anybody know if the sensors can be saved via ultrasonic cleaning etc?

I will be inspecting the loom first though.

I'll stick money on the temp being air locked. Mine done the same when I bought it, drove it 200 meters and it was in the thr red. Logic says a car won't get to 130° from cold in 200 meters. Just bear in mind these can be an absolute pig of a job too bleed up. It's also worth checking that the fan is engaging. Genuine thermostat only cost me £40 but I also done the pump and belts as they wasn't too much extra work. Bleed it up with water first and see if you can get the temperature stable. I know a lot of people will argue this but its cheaper then using coolant and loosing it. Once your satisfied its holding temp, you MUST empty it and do the process with the correct coolant.

Battery

Go and get your battery tested too see what the score is with that. Soon as the battery I'd on thr blink these cars don't like it and have a hiss fit. My blue v8 had an issue with these so get the bumper off, disconnect the main loom, get the connectors cleaned up and spray some electrical contact cleaner on it. Once you done this do thr same to each sensor

Good luck

Allen

That's great advice, thanks Allen.

I'll have a look around and see what is required to bleed the system. Makes sense alright that there could be an air lock, especially given the bubbling.

Good shout on the battery. The car sat for about 12 months so not sure if that has messed it up or not. I'll pull it out and get it tests and recondition etc.

I'll have a play with the parking bits down the line, I will want to get the bumper off now anyway, as paint tape lines pi$$ me off no end.

Oh and, I just noticed that there were no PDC errors on the GAP IID report, I wonder why that was.

It's pretty much same as any car with the bleed procedure. You have a nipple on the coolant tank you have too undo and wait until it comes out as a continous flow. I done mine over a few days.

Find a few bricks and park the front wheels on them so the front is higher. Chuck some water in and fill it too the top and let it go down. Keep doing this as the air will naturally try to go to the highest point. Once you've done this a few times, start the car up and see if the water drops instantly, I'd it does just add some more water and run it for 10 mins. Let it cool down and check the water level again and see where your at with the cap off. Once you've done this a few times, you should have sufficient water in the system then it's a case of getting it pressured up. Once you've done this and it's holding pressure you should be able to drive it around the block a few times so you can see what the deal is with the temp needle spiking. By now it should start to slowly rise, if that's the case and it remains at the same level after its cooled down. Do it again to make sure, after the 2nd time assuming it stays the same, drop the water and refill with coolant.

Given its had a flat battery for a year, I'd guess its the battery not firing on all cylinders. If you've got a Halfords trade card you can get a yuasa hb020 battery for a nice healthy £100. It's a tight squeeze getting it in and you'll need the bonnet in access mode as well as removing the front air intake on the top with two 13mm bolts but it fits and does the job nicely

Thanks @Bean19844

When you say it's a pig, what's so bad?

Remind me again, why are we using water first time around? Is it in case of a leak somewhere, not to waste coolant?

When go for it second time with coolant, am I supposed to completely drain the system first then go through the bleed process as before?

I don't know why I find this so confusing in my head.. I mean I can follow simple steps, but I think (me being me). I need to understand how the whole system works and flow and the effects of the valves, cooling etc before going at it.

Why do some people talk about compressed air? I remember a mechanic told me that he flushes using compressed air?

I do it with water the first time mate so you can make sure there's no leaks from any of your pipes as the coolant can get expensive. My old v8 took 8 litres but as it had a leak at the back I kept loosing the coolant and money so done it with water, found where the leak was and addressed that then refilled it with coolant

Quick project update..

I moved my Landy indoors for a while. It's a temporary spot i've been able to secure to save me from working out in the elements to get this thing driving.. I didn't get a pic, but did snap this video



Did really do a huge amount to it other than pour in a little brake fluid to see if I could identify the leak(s). To my surprise, the system didn't take much fluid at all.. strange I though.

Anyway, I proceeded to pump the pedal. Felt a bit harder. After looking under, I found the following puddle directly under where the Master Cylinder is.. and the fluid level was still reasonably high.

Looks like MC is broken some how. Either just plain broken, perished seal or loose nut. I need another set of hands feet to pump while I look to see where it's coming from....

On the other hand... from typing this, I have just realised that I don't think I put the cap back on.. so maybe the fluid just cap out the top. Silly me.. Still odd that not much fluid was needed.

🤣🤣🤣

ROFLMAO I think most of us have been there I most definitely have done that.

Most of those look pretty explainable, although the airbag fault does worry me slightly.
The brake pipes are notorious for corroding and leaking. You can either buy pre-formed from LR or use copper and do the bends yourself. This will help with the rears as they run over the top of the rear diff etc.

The brake master cylinder seal has a habit of drying out, so you’d be best to replace that as well.

Good luck Mr Bond  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Bl4ckD0g wrote:

🤣🤣🤣

ROFLMAO I think most of us have been there I most definitely have done that.

Quote:

Most of those look pretty explainable, although the airbag fault does worry me slightly.
The brake pipes are notorious for corroding and leaking. You can either buy pre-formed from LR or use copper and do the bends yourself. This will help with the rears as they run over the top of the rear diff etc.

The brake master cylinder seal has a habit of drying out, so you’d be best to replace that as well.

Get yourself a gap iid tool mate. I had an airbag on my 4.4 for about 6 months. Didn't realise it was only on because the battery wasn't being fully charged as the alternator was faulty. That gave up so changed that and the battery the cleared the fault and its never come back.

Gap will tell you 90% of the issues on the car and give you a good starting point

Oh yea Bean..

I got a Gap IID tool. First thing I sorted lol.

The list of errors above are from Gap. When I get the brakes and air suspension sorted, i'll be fixing up the airbag and seeing what's what.

Enjoyed reading the post and progress - good luck. With regards to Wing Mirror glass I used this company for my FF and very pleased with it and the service - https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/wingmirrorstore Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
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Alright you wonderful lot... i've finally gotten my hands dirty... let's see what we have on our hands heh!

So just to say straight off that the primary objectives are currently:

1. Get the suspension and brakes working so I can drive it around the factory yard where I am working to assess the engine and transmission state (is it a lemon or worth continuing)
2. Assess the rest of the body rust wise and check if it's worth doing and no key areas that would effectively write the car off.

I started off at the O/S Front as I knew that's where the leaking brake line and air spring was.

Removing the air strut / bag

The components were pretty rusty, which meant a pain in the ass to remove. MAPP gas helped, as did my hammer. Damaged a nut banging the bolts out so that will be replaced. The rust here doesn't bother me as I can clean it all up with my die grinder and wire brush, then treat quite easily.

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..Where were we?

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