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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > NO power (not limp mode) idle at 500rpm - now non starter .

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Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

Mikey wrote:
Kevhdkent wrote:
(ps when the hoses are off the throttle bodies still non starter)

You now need to loosen off the EGR pipes at the back of the engine and try again

Are these the pipe connections to be removed Mikey ?…,

2nd Nov 2021 7:35pm

Mikey

Member Since: 10 Jan 2008
Location: Dundee
Posts: 1750

No, the metal pipes onto the back edge of the EGR coolers

2nd Nov 2021 8:07pm

AJGalaxy2012

Member Since: 11 Jun 2018
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 1464

2012 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 V8 Bonatti Grey

[quote="Kevhdkent"][quote="AJGalaxy2012"]

Kevhdkent wrote:

If it is a critical loss of pressure across every cylinder could this reasonably be accounted for by anything other than cam belt/chain (which is it ?) failure ?

IF the compression has gone on all cylinders, it has to be a valve issue. It's an interesting one for sure, the blocked exhaust is a nice theory too but the easystart 'test' for want of a better word, does seem to suggest a compression issue unless, back pressure from a blocked exhaust stops the induction of the easystart. Does it sound normal when cranking or does it really load up? If it sounds to be spinning over freely that would suggest no compression, if it really loads up that would suggest excessive back pressure - blocked exhaust. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

3rd Nov 2021 4:14am

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

By “a valve issue” I take it to mean across all valves, therefore down to cam position, therefore cam belt position ?

3rd Nov 2021 6:46pm

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

So, tonight I cable tied a black dustbin bag straight off the roll (ie flat with no air in) onto the exit of one exhaust and placed the palm of my hand across the other.

With the motor spinning over I perceived no build up of pressure on my hand, tho I could feel a little air flow with my hand held just off the exhaust, and the bin bag did not inflate as I would have expected.

3rd Nov 2021 7:10pm

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

Mikey wrote:
No, the metal pipes onto the back edge of the EGR coolers

Can the be got at direct, without removing other components?
I’ll have to try and locate the EGR’s .

3rd Nov 2021 7:13pm

Mikey

Member Since: 10 Jan 2008
Location: Dundee
Posts: 1750

Just the pollen filter housing, 2x 13mm nuts then they can be accessed

3rd Nov 2021 9:59pm

AJGalaxy2012

Member Since: 11 Jun 2018
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 1464

Kevhdkent wrote:
So, tonight I cable tied a black dustbin bag straight off the roll (ie flat with no air in) onto the exit of one exhaust and placed the palm of my hand across the other.

With the motor spinning over I perceived no build up of pressure on my hand, tho I could feel a little air flow with my hand held just off the exhaust, and the bin bag did not inflate as I would have expected.

So it has to be a blocked exhaust OR valve timing issues. I would have thought it nigh on impossible for the exhaust to suddenly block fully, I suppose a DPF may break up but to seal it solid would be difficult.
You really need to open up the exhaust system somewhere surch as EGR points and see if will start then. I cant explain why there are no fault codes but my money would still be on valve timing. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

4th Nov 2021 10:36am

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

Thanks AJ, as Mikey has already suggested taking the pipes off the ERG that is what I’m currently seeking to do, between work and my minimal knowledge.

Thereafter investigating the cam & crank sensors appears to be the way to go.

Incidentally, on turning over today the dash had “engine system fault” displayed. I assume that this will have logged an error code on the diagnostics. Can anyone recommend a diagnostic tool for the home mechanic that is cost effective ?

4th Nov 2021 4:17pm

cass

Member Since: 12 Oct 2011
Location: northumberland
Posts: 731

"With the motor spinning over I perceived no build up of pressure on my hand, tho I could feel a little air flow with my hand held just off the exhaust, and the bin bag did not inflate as I would have expected."
I could be wrong but I wouldn't expect to detect any pressure until the engine fired, I'm sure that I've read that engines crank at about 200rpm on the starter? If so then even assuming no leaks or losses that's only about 60L of gas from a 5 second burst of cranking which isn't much to fill an exhaust and all of the other pipework.
does this make any sense?

4th Nov 2021 4:37pm

jagracer

Member Since: 14 Aug 2021
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 113

2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Zermatt Silver

Hello Kev, I suggest that an Icarsoft V2 will read most of the module codes, mine does twenty four modules. I have a Freelander 2 that I have fitted a low mileage engine, it started and ran for twenty seconds and will not go again. It has gone into Crash Mode. Crash Mode disconnects the ECU from the dash and Central Junction Box, DTC U160, I believe. Any U codes are main system programming codes as far as I can see. A dead lift pump will stop the engine, but I think you might be looking at a sheared crank end, broken cam chain or broken camshaft. There are lots of people on you tube with those faults to look at. The Freelander was diagnosed by a local "Expert" as needing a new starter motor and alternator as it drained the battery and turned over very slowly. In actual fact, the motor was seized solid, jumping on a three foot bar on the crankshaft did not move it. As has been said before, if you have compression, and fuel in the injectors, it will run. I had a Mini once that emptied the sump in fifty miles, following vehicles all had their lights on in the fog, but it still ran, and got me home. I replaced the engine with a race tuned engine I built, it would keep up with a Porsche 911 turbo up to 115 MPH! Good old days before camera's everywhere! Read the codes first, best of luck, do tell when you find the fault, please.

4th Nov 2021 4:53pm

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

cass wrote:
"With the motor spinning over I perceived no build up of pressure on my hand, tho I could feel a little air flow with my hand held just off the exhaust, and the bin bag did not inflate as I would have expected."
I could be wrong but I wouldn't expect to detect any pressure until the engine fired, I'm sure that I've read that engines crank at about 200rpm on the starter? If so then even assuming no leaks or losses that's only about 60L of gas from a 5 second burst of cranking which isn't much to fill an exhaust and all of the other pipework.
does this make any sense?

Makes perfect seance.

4th Nov 2021 6:20pm

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

jagracer wrote:
Hello Kev, I suggest that an Icarsoft V2 will read most of the module codes, mine does twenty four modules. I have a Freelander 2 that I have fitted a low mileage engine, it started and ran for twenty seconds and will not go again. It has gone into Crash Mode. Crash Mode disconnects the ECU from the dash and Central Junction Box, DTC U160, I believe. Any U codes are main system programming codes as far as I can see. A dead lift pump will stop the engine, but I think you might be looking at a sheared crank end, broken cam chain or broken camshaft. There are lots of people on you tube with those faults to look at. The Freelander was diagnosed by a local "Expert" as needing a new starter motor and alternator as it drained the battery and turned over very slowly. In actual fact, the motor was seized solid, jumping on a three foot bar on the crankshaft did not move it. As has been said before, if you have compression, and fuel in the injectors, it will run. I had a Mini once that emptied the sump in fifty miles, following vehicles all had their lights on in the fog, but it still ran, and got me home. I replaced the engine with a race tuned engine I built, it would keep up with a Porsche 911 turbo up to 115 MPH! Good old days before camera's everywhere! Read the codes first, best of luck, do tell when you find the fault, please.

Thanks for the recommendation. A little peeved I just missed an unused boxed one for 50 quid !😡

4th Nov 2021 6:22pm

Kevhdkent

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Kent
Posts: 69

Mikey wrote:
Just the pollen filter housing, 2x 13mm nuts then they can be accessed

Gonna give this a go, tho having just trawled thru Edfors post of 2015 using over 100 photos to illustrate regards lacing EGR’s on a L322, it appears quite daunting just to get sight of them !!!

4th Nov 2021 6:25pm

Kot

Member Since: 10 Mar 2021
Location: broadland
Posts: 1194

Kevhdkent wrote:
Can anyone recommend a diagnostic tool for the home mechanic that is cost effective ?

I use an Autel AP200 its Bluetooth and can be used with Android or IOS phones.
Cheapest is here https://www.autelstore.co.uk/wholesale/aut...anner.html but 7 to 14 working days.

Or Amayzon its next day with prime. But £69.99 you can always use it and send it back if it doesn't work

It will work and you will be pleasantly surprised on what this can do---read the spec 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

4th Nov 2021 7:54pm

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