Airlock in the system I reckon...
Can't see what engine you have on my device, but it took me an age to get my 4.2 sc bled, resorted to removing the thermostat housing and purging with the garden hose.

dingg1 wrote:

Airlock in the system I reckon...
Can't see what engine you have on my device, but it took me an age to get my 4.2 sc bled, resorted to removing the thermostat housing and purging with the garden hose.

The tdv8 3.6
Maybe a lot easier, I haven't worked on them sorry, just thought if it was the 4.2 sc it is one of the classic symptoms of an air lock

That's 4.2 drawing but I think fbh side is same.
What hoses must be connected to try direct flow?
 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Is it normal it's blurping each time I open air valve on water tank after I turn off the engine? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Did you check the auxiliary coolant pump, that's fitted on the bracket directly underneath the double solenoid valve. If that's not working properly it could be affecting the heating.
The additional valve is only fitted where the FFRR has the remote park heating module, i.e. you can activate the FBH with a seperate fob whilst being out of the vehicle and you don't have to activate it using the display screen. I would think that an airlock is unlikely to be the cause, as when you did the flush you said that you added coolant into the expansion tank whilst bleeding from the return hose.
It might be a good idea to take some photos of the LHS and RHS of the engine bay. then we can see if you do have the changeover valve fitted.

And the fbh valve is cold no heat at all..

Click image to enlarge

Discotigger wrote:

Did you check the auxiliary coolant pump, that's fitted on the bracket directly underneath the double solenoid valve. If that's not working properly it could be affecting the heating.
The additional valve is only fitted where the FFRR has the remote park heating module, i.e. you can activate the FBH with a seperate fob whilst being out of the vehicle and you don't have to activate it using the display screen. I would think that an airlock is unlikely to be the cause, as when you did the flush you said that you added coolant into the expansion tank whilst bleeding from the return hose.
It might be a good idea to take some photos of the LHS and RHS of the engine bay. then we can see if you do have the changeover valve fitted.

I have seen the pump but did not check.
It says for its for coolant turnover when stationary or when engine is turned off.
Owners say for 4.2 engines even adding water must be done slowly for not to have air I don't know if 3.6 is so sensitive too.
The fbh valve and all hoses are cold under Polen filter cover. Valve or radiator? we will see.
And this is left side facing the car.
 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

The radiator is fine.
The fhb valve doesnot respond it's selonoid is gone or stuck.
The problem is if it is the jeo000010 unit it is not available.
So Can I use the coolant valve selonoid in it? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post495181.html

İ think this is it.
Can the fbh block coolant flow? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Yes, that is the valve I originally referred to, it's called the changeover valve. It has a single solenoid as opposed to the other valve which has two solenoids. The 3.6 engined FF must have that valve located in a different position to the 4.4 engined FF. I have just got my FF back from the mechanics and he wasn't able to replace the internals in this valve, it has a different plunger and washers inside, so the repair kit I gave him wasn't correct. To get a genuine replacement valve is damned expensive, it is possible to bypass this valve with a plastic hose tee piece to connect all three hoses together. The valve is normally open, so won't affect the cooling system if it's bypassed.
I've noticed that you can get a solenoid valve, Part No LR016848 off ebay for £137 (posted) which looks identical to the solenoid valve, just without the mounting bracket. I've taken the plunge and bought one and will see if it can be used to successfully replace my existing broken solenoid valve.

Yes it is much easier to check changeover valve on 3.6 if the hoses are hot or not.
I opened the changeover valve and the seal that the needle sits on was swollen.
So it can't go forward to open the circuit.
Since I don't have repair kit I took some swollen part of the seal and it started working.
But the system itself does not open the circuit.
Only when we give direct current circuit is open and heating is ok.
Electric guy said the current coming to the socket is too weak.
So another issue to go after:(
So no solution yet.

If I connect hoses directly will I be able to get cold air?
And we need these?

Click image to enlarge

If you connect the three hoses directly with one of those two tees, you should still be able to get cold air as it is the double solenoid valve that controls the flow of coolant to the two heater matrixes.
You can get the changeover valve new Part No. JEO000010, but it costs a damned fortune, see below
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/123...n_ba334342

I've taken a punt and bought a solenoid valve as per Part No. LR016848, it looks identical to the changeover valve but without the mounting bracket. I've ordered it (Cost £140 odd from ebay) but it isn't listed now (maybe I got the last one the supplier had in stock?). There are cheaper ones from China:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R4...p;_sacat=0
but the one I got is genuine LR stock. Will see when it arrives on Friday if it will do the job and report back.

But the valve operates when we give direct current from battery.
It is ok I guess.
Why is there no current on the socket?
Chinese ones are a gamble as far as I know.
Hope it works. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k