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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand
Heater not heating at all!!

Hi
Today I realised that the heater is not responding.
Not even warming a little.
Any help?? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608608 8th Oct 2021 5:42am
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Chris1573



Member Since: 30 Jan 2021
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 162

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Zermatt Silver

check you coolant level in the engine. There is a bleed screw on top of the water bottle. L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

Post #608617 8th Oct 2021 7:42am
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Dolphinboy



Member Since: 07 Dec 2009
Location: Bristol
Posts: 3143

United Kingdom 2015 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Baltic Blue

if the coolant pipes are getting hot but no heat in cabin, it could be the internal heat flaps sticking. press the individual buttons (windscreen/face/feet) to get them moving again. also, (this worked for me once) take the pollen filter out and re-seat back in again (it's in the back of the engine compartment right under the windscreen)

Post #608622 8th Oct 2021 8:26am
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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand

Chris1573 wrote:
check you coolant level in the engine. There is a bleed screw on top of the water bottle.

Coolant level is ok.

Dolphin I will try but I am confused about Polen filter and heating. How does it affect heating? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608628 8th Oct 2021 9:18am
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Dolphinboy



Member Since: 07 Dec 2009
Location: Bristol
Posts: 3143

United Kingdom 2015 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Baltic Blue

dunno but it may have been incorrectly inserted originally and was putting pressure on the flap mechanism?

All I know is that I made sure it was properly fitted and the heat started coming through. But the button pushes work the most for me.

Post #608640 8th Oct 2021 1:26pm
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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand

Yes pipes going in are not hot enough.
Flaps are working fine.
It seems like valve problem. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608721 9th Oct 2021 12:48pm
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

It could be the single heater control valve, located on the left hand side bulkhead (as you look at the engine). It has three hoses connected to it and the valve is solenoid operated. There's some internals in the valve, consisting of the solenoid, a plunger and a couple of rubber washers. The washers and plunger sometimes get stuck, as the rubber degrades over time, stopping the valve from passing hot fluid through to the heater matrix. You can get repair kits to refurbish the washer, plunger, etc., there's plenty on eBay. Get the valve out and replace the internals, refit valve and all should work again.
Hope this helps.

Post #608844 11th Oct 2021 11:19am
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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand

Thanks Disco for great help.
The valve is so badly placed so small place to work.
I saw the repair videos looks easy.
I could not find a valve replacement video. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608878 11th Oct 2021 7:02pm
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

Here's a link to the typical repair kits on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283092778301?fi...SwxNxbaqwL

It costs a small fortune to get a replacement valve, much easier to repair them. You only need a spanner to get the valve and mounting bracket off and 3 pipe clamps to stop the heating water coming out of the hoses. Yes, access is fiddly but can be done without too much hassle.
There's also a double valve control coming from the FBH mounted on the other side of the engine bay, but it's very rare fo that one to fail.
My heater control valve went a while ago, ordered the kit and have just got my local indy garage to replace the internals whilst they do some other work on the FF. It'll only take them a short while to do the job as they've done a few of these before and it's easier for them to do it, due to me having a bad back and leg at the moment.
Hope this helps.

Post #608881 11th Oct 2021 7:59pm
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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand

Sorry for your health problems mate:(
I found Febi part for 90£ so it feels better to change and look how the old one is inside.
The diagram shows only one valve.
And I started to loose coolant after flushing can the valve cause a leak?

Click image to enlarge
 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608893 11th Oct 2021 9:34pm
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

Are you looking at item 10 on the diagram, that's the FBH control valves and is actually a 2 solenoid valve unit. The main heater control valve only has one solenoid. I'll try and dig out a diagram for you so you know what you need to look at.
I've just thought, do you have a Left Hand Drive vehicle? If so, it's possible the unit you need to look for could be on the opposite side of the engine bay. Again I'll need to have a look and get back to you. I'll try and respond as soon as possible, but it might be in the morning (to me at least).

Found a link to the heater control valve you need to look for. It's not really shown well in the WM, so can be confused for the FBH control Valve(s).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193889058494?ep...SwAuVgJbou
It's mounted on the bracket as shown in the link. Have a look in the engine bay and check you're looking at the right one.

Post #608895 11th Oct 2021 9:48pm
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

It's item 5 on this section of the WM I'm talking about.
Pic attached:

Click image to enlarge


You'll see that this single solenoid valve is way more expensive than the twin solenoid valve for the FBH.
It's just held on with 3 fasteners and comes with the bracket.

Just noticed it's in the same location regardless of LHD or RHD models, and for some reason the WM calls it the 'Changeover Valve'.
The LR Part No. is: JEO500120, it seemingly can only be bought from LR dealers / Britcar / etc. and costs a Censored fortune! All the dual solenoids can be bought for under £100, probably because so many vehicle models will use them and most supplied will be aftermarket units, not 'Genuine LR'. The repair kits work on this single solenoid unit, it's just that you get 2 sets of spares as they're geared for the twin solenoid valves. The single solenoid valve is identical, so you just use 1 set of the spares to repair it from the kit. Thumbs Up

Post #608896 11th Oct 2021 10:01pm
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umitbat



Member Since: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Space
Posts: 433

A Trap 2010 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Atacama Sand

Mate I think single one is the FBH unit.
I need the double selonoid one for cabin heating. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

Post #608905 12th Oct 2021 4:24am
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

The double solenoid valve unit is for the coolant to the heater matrix, but it's not the valve that causes the main problems, its the changeover valve that channels hot coolant to the heater matrix either from the FBH or from the engine. The double solenoid valve routes coolant to either side of the matrix, but coolant first has to go through the single valve. When the FBH operates the changeover valve routes coolant to the matrix, but if this valve is not working properly, i.e. when the rubber washer is knackered, the engine coolant won't get to the matrix.
When I had the same problem as you, i.e. no heat or limited heat through one side only, I replaced the double solenoid valve first to no effect. It was the changeover valve at fault. My mechanic tried to clean and grease up the washer in the single changeover solenoid valve, it would work briefly and we would get heat through the heater, but the rubber was too perished to do its job, the valve would get jammed and then no heat at all, or limited heat through one side of the matrix, as only a small amount of hot coolant was passing through the valve. This is why I've got the repair kit and am getting him to replace the internals on the changeover valve.
Hope the above helps to clarify things.

Post #608920 12th Oct 2021 9:16am
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Discotigger



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 804

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Westminster TDV8 Orkney Grey

Just to further clarify the above, I realised in one of the above posts I'd accidentally referred to the double valve as being the FBH control valve.
The double solenoid valve (Dual Coolant Valve) routes coolant to either side of the heater matrix, enabling either side of the cabin to have different temperatures relative to the other. The changeover valve routes heated coolant from either the FBH (when it's operating) or the engine (when it's running at the correct temperature or warming up).

If you are consistently getting hot air out of only one side of the matrix, for example the passenger side is hot but the driver's side is cold, then it could be that one of the two valves on the dual coolant valve (Item 10 in the below diagram) is faulty.

Click image to enlarge


This means that one of the rubber washers has perished / swollen to the point where no coolant can pass through the valve to the relevant side of the heater matrix that the particular valve controls.

The single solenoid valve (Changeover Valve, Item 5 in the diagram below) only operates when the FBH is running and the engine is off, and ensures that hot coolant from the FBH is routed through to the Dual Coolant Valve.


Click image to enlarge


If you are getting no heat at all, or very little heat through either side of the cabin, then it's this valve at fault. The rubber washer in this valve is more likely to get swollen or perish, as it is constantly subjected to hot engine coolant flowing over it.
I would recommend, as a first step, getting the repair kit and replacing the solenoid plunger, rubber washer and o-ring on the single Changeover Valve, and see if that solves the (lack of heat) problem. Most of the repair kits come with two sets of replacement parts, so the spare parts can also be used on the Dual Valve as well. With the Dual Valve, it's most likely only one of the two valves that is faulty/not working. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than forking out the money (£100 odd for the Dual Coolant Valve and £200 - £300 for the Changeover Valve, versus £20 - £30 odd for the repair kit) to replace one or other of the two different solenoid valves.

Hope this is of use to help solve the various heating issues people experience.

Post #608924 12th Oct 2021 10:33am
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