![]() | Home > Technical (L322) > Heater not heating at all!! |
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Chris1573 Member Since: 30 Jan 2021 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 162 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
check you coolant level in the engine. There is a bleed screw on top of the water bottle. L322 2007 TDV8 3.6 |
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Dolphinboy Member Since: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Bristol Posts: 3200 ![]() ![]() |
if the coolant pipes are getting hot but no heat in cabin, it could be the internal heat flaps sticking. press the individual buttons (windscreen/face/feet) to get them moving again. also, (this worked for me once) take the pollen filter out and re-seat back in again (it's in the back of the engine compartment right under the windscreen) |
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umitbat Member Since: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Space Posts: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Coolant level is ok. Dolphin I will try but I am confused about Polen filter and heating. How does it affect heating? 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km. sold 06 td6 160k Sold 03 td6 260k |
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Dolphinboy Member Since: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Bristol Posts: 3200 ![]() ![]() |
dunno but it may have been incorrectly inserted originally and was putting pressure on the flap mechanism?
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umitbat Member Since: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Space Posts: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes pipes going in are not hot enough.
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It could be the single heater control valve, located on the left hand side bulkhead (as you look at the engine). It has three hoses connected to it and the valve is solenoid operated. There's some internals in the valve, consisting of the solenoid, a plunger and a couple of rubber washers. The washers and plunger sometimes get stuck, as the rubber degrades over time, stopping the valve from passing hot fluid through to the heater matrix. You can get repair kits to refurbish the washer, plunger, etc., there's plenty on eBay. Get the valve out and replace the internals, refit valve and all should work again.
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umitbat Member Since: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Space Posts: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Disco for great help.
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Here's a link to the typical repair kits on ebay:
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umitbat Member Since: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Space Posts: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry for your health problems mate:(
sold 06 td6 160k Sold 03 td6 260k |
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Are you looking at item 10 on the diagram, that's the FBH control valves and is actually a 2 solenoid valve unit. The main heater control valve only has one solenoid. I'll try and dig out a diagram for you so you know what you need to look at.
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It's item 5 on this section of the WM I'm talking about.
You'll see that this single solenoid valve is way more expensive than the twin solenoid valve for the FBH. It's just held on with 3 fasteners and comes with the bracket. Just noticed it's in the same location regardless of LHD or RHD models, and for some reason the WM calls it the 'Changeover Valve'. The LR Part No. is: JEO500120, it seemingly can only be bought from LR dealers / Britcar / etc. and costs a ![]() ![]() |
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umitbat Member Since: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Space Posts: 433 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Mate I think single one is the FBH unit.
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The double solenoid valve unit is for the coolant to the heater matrix, but it's not the valve that causes the main problems, its the changeover valve that channels hot coolant to the heater matrix either from the FBH or from the engine. The double solenoid valve routes coolant to either side of the matrix, but coolant first has to go through the single valve. When the FBH operates the changeover valve routes coolant to the matrix, but if this valve is not working properly, i.e. when the rubber washer is knackered, the engine coolant won't get to the matrix.
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Discotigger Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 804 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just to further clarify the above, I realised in one of the above posts I'd accidentally referred to the double valve as being the FBH control valve.
This means that one of the rubber washers has perished / swollen to the point where no coolant can pass through the valve to the relevant side of the heater matrix that the particular valve controls. The single solenoid valve (Changeover Valve, Item 5 in the diagram below) only operates when the FBH is running and the engine is off, and ensures that hot coolant from the FBH is routed through to the Dual Coolant Valve.
If you are getting no heat at all, or very little heat through either side of the cabin, then it's this valve at fault. The rubber washer in this valve is more likely to get swollen or perish, as it is constantly subjected to hot engine coolant flowing over it. I would recommend, as a first step, getting the repair kit and replacing the solenoid plunger, rubber washer and o-ring on the single Changeover Valve, and see if that solves the (lack of heat) problem. Most of the repair kits come with two sets of replacement parts, so the spare parts can also be used on the Dual Valve as well. With the Dual Valve, it's most likely only one of the two valves that is faulty/not working. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than forking out the money (£100 odd for the Dual Coolant Valve and £200 - £300 for the Changeover Valve, versus £20 - £30 odd for the repair kit) to replace one or other of the two different solenoid valves. Hope this is of use to help solve the various heating issues people experience. |
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