Wow. The difference when you change the fluid for the first time in years!
If you haven’t changed yours in a few years (ever ?), I recommend you do.

I plan to do this the old fashioned way of syringing out and topping up. Repeat.
How did you do yours? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Local Indy in East Sussex

DrRob wrote:

I plan to do this the old fashioned way of syringing out and topping up. Repeat.
How did you do yours?

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:46pm. Edited 1 time in total

Not sure if you can do this on the L322 but may be worth a read. Carried this out on my Freelander 2 so instructions come from the freel2 forum :

What you need to do:

Raise the front wheels off the ground to make turning the wheels easier without the engine powering the PAS. Trolley jack is helpful here and a couple of axle stands.

Cover the auxiliary drive belt and the area around and under the reservoir and pipes to avoid contamination, which is difficult to remove.(don�t forget to remove these before you start the engine later on)

Remove the PAS fluid from the reservoir by sucking it out with a fuel hand primer bulb which has a one-way valve. They are cheap to buy on the internet (I got one for �4.70 + postage) and makes the job a lot cleaner. If you don�t have a bulb place a receptacle under the reservoir of at least the capacity of the reservoir to catch old fluid that will poor out of the reservoir � very messy!

It is useful to lift the reservoir from its mounting bracket to gain better access to the pipes underneath.

Remove the �supply to pump� pipe (the larger of the two pipes fitting straight onto the reservoir stub pipe to one side of the base of the reservoir) by decompressing the spring clip. Very messy here if you have not pumped out the reservoir! Removing this one first from the reservoir makes access to the �return to reservoir� pipe much easier as its connector can be awkward.

Remove the �return to reservoir� pipe by depressing the button on the 90 degree elbow connector at the end of the pipe and pull it to release it from the lip on the pipe stub. My connector was a bit stubborn but a bit of jiggling sorted it out.

Remove the old reservoir.

Plug the �return to reservoir� pipe connector on the new reservoir ( the one in the middle � I used insulation tape as no fluid pressure) and connect the �supply to pump� pipe to the new reservoir.

Put a long clear hose in or on the free �return to reservoir� pipe and run it into a container to catch the old fluid (sufficient for the volume of fluid being used). Ideally use a clear hose so that you can see the colour change of the new fluid. I cut off the pipe connector stub on the old reservoir with a hacksaw to ensure a good fit in the connector (needs to be cleaned after cutting to avoid contamination) and attached the clear hose into the cut off stub and sealed with insulation tape. This needs to be done quite well to avoid it being pushed out by the pressure of the fluid being forced through. When you are removing it later on, the stub may come away from the tube and stay in the elbow connector so long nose pliers may be needed to extract the stub from the pipe clip of the connector. It may be easier for you to remove the elbow connector from the pipe and connect the return pipe directly to your clear pipe � I could not do this as I could not separate the elbow from the pipe.

If your clear pipe is long enough, say 2 metres, it is useful to extend it to a large receptacle placed about 3 feet from the front offside wheel so you can turn the steering wheel, see the reservoir and the collecting receptacle or at least the clear pipe all at the same time so it is a one-man job and the wife doesn�t get oily and cross.

Fit the new reservoir into the bracket in the engine bay.

Still with the engine off pour new fluid in to the plugged reservoir.

Turn the steering wheel back and forth, from lock to lock to force the fluid in the rack out of the tube. Keep the tank topped up to avoid drawing in air and keep turning the steering wheel back and forth.

After a few tanks full clean fluid should come out. About one litre of PAS fluid should be enough to flush most of the old fluid out but have two litres to flush a bit more and have enough to top up at the end. My old fluid was a mucky grey so obviously full of swarf from the rack.

When the fluid is flowing clean, make the tank nearly empty by turning the steering wheel back and forth so that there is limited spillage when the return to reservoir hose is reconnected to the reservoir. Reconnect it quickly and there should be limited spillage.

Refill the reservoir.

Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock quickly several times to bleed the air from the lines, then look into the tank and see if there are any air bubbles.

Remove all the rags you used to cover the auxiliary belt etc.

Start the engine and turn the wheels back and forth to circulate the fluid.

Turn off the engine and repeat this step until no more air bubbles appear but make sure the fluid level in the reservoir does not get too low.

Check the fluid level with the road wheels in the straight on position. 2011 TDV8 Vogue SE

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:46pm. Edited 1 time in total

Nothing wrong with doing it the old fashioned way. Did it myself with a small hand suction pump and took six goes to get the liquid bright green. After each top up switch the engine on and turn steering lock to lock and repeat. If you don't have a suction pump a bike pump will work.

Thanks all for the tips and advice. Really good info Seems reasonably simple to do.

Is it ATF Fluid that's needed?

nicedayforit wrote:

Nothing wrong with doing it the old fashioned way. Did it myself with a small hand suction pump and took six goes to get the liquid bright green. After each top up switch the engine on and turn steering lock to lock and repeat. If you don't have a suction pump a bike pump will work.

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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 2:47pm. Edited 1 time in total

Bolert wrote:

nicedayforit wrote:

Nothing wrong with doing it the old fashioned way. Did it myself with a small hand suction pump and took six goes to get the liquid bright green. After each top up switch the engine on and turn steering lock to lock and repeat. If you don't have a suction pump a bike pump will work.

Good to know, did you have engine off and jacked while doing this and turning steering each time to move fluid??

Thanks

Just had the car on the ground and when doing the steering bit just drove the car back and forth.

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Going to do this on mine soon. Not sure I need the cold climate fluid as it's not that cold here so I'll go with normal PAS fluid.

The RR manual states you should remove the reservoir return hose and direct into a bucket, then top up whilst getting the steering turned lock to lock until 4 litres have been passed through the system.

Just changed mine using the syringe way over a couple of weeks, as I rarely use the FFRR (Genuine cold climate 2 ltrs). Not cheap £25 per Ltr.

I syringed out the reservoir & then topped back up. Left if for a couple of days driving & then repeated the process, pretty straight forward.
To be honest, I haven;t noticed any real difference.