Finally got round to doing the replacement condenser following these excellent instructions.
I found a lot of the plastic trim very brittle and broke. The clips that hold the top of the headlights!
Once condenser was out I discovered two small leaks on the radiator! Sourced a Behr Hella repalcement on eBay for £200 the same day and started the next task. All went well except I could not get the bottom big coolant pipe off! Was a nightmare , took over an hour! In the end had to cut it off and remove with pliers, had to take the viscous fan off and cowling to get acces which made the job harder! Managed to break the fan cowling too, gutted , had to gaffer tape it up.
Got it all back together , refilled and bled coolant, took the car for a regas and now all sorted. I just hope it holds pressure.
The rad and condeser were filthy, all that driving through deep grass!!

Click image to enlarge

Did this job today. Made easier by this thread  2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Glad it helped  If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but am doing this job at the weekend, I've bought the condenser from coolparts uk however they don't supply the 2 "O" rings, so I ordered them from land rover but they dont seem to be the correct size when tried on the new condenser, so for those of you who have done the job did you use the ones from the old condenser or could you tell me where you bought the new ones. Thanks

I fitted one last weekend also purchased from coolparts. I also purchased the o ring kit from them, it is a generic kit full of different sized o rings but not a pair so had to use two that just fitted. Just need to fix an engine fault before I can drive it to get the system recharged.

Well thanks to the write up I managed to change my condenser at the weekend, took about 2hrs in total but that included aralditeing the passenger side headlight brackets back on ( very brittle ) . and also worth mentioning that the self tapper under where the pipes connect is a 25TX bit, took me a while to figure out after try different screwdrivers as you can't really see the head.

Had the system tested,re-gassed and the anti bacterial treatment done yesterday for £45, now ice cold 3.4 degrees at the vent

Gonna tackle this job hopefully tmw will have the thread up on my phone for reference.
Hoping it goes fairly straight forward looking how “welshdragonâ€� has done it. 2004 Autobiography TD6 Java Black

I swapped my condenser today on my 4.2SC after it failed a leak test. The guide was a real life saver. Thank you.

Just one thing to note. When I went to lift my condenser out it came up an inch or two then was blocked by something in the plastic cowling on the near side where the dryer tube on the condenser slots in. Tried all the usually things, involving foul language, mole grips, pry-bars and blood. None worked. On close inspection with a lamp, there is a plastic ridge near the bottom of the cowl, presumably designed to keep the condenser from rattling around. I ended up using a long thin screwdriver from underneath the condenser to prise the cowl open a few mm to allow me to pull the condenser up past the plastic ridge.

Everything else went to plan except all the emotion had resulted in me forgetting where all the various bolts and screws went. Thank god for the guide and thank you once again. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

I replaced the condenser and one of the alu aircon pipes in the engine bay this weekend. I didn't have to worry about capturing the old gas as it had all escaped previously.

Whilst this thread was helpful to get me started, I found that there were some additional steps necessary to remove the condenser. This is probably because my FF is 2010MY TDV8.

First steps are the same as for earlier models. You need to remove the grill and slam panel and the fixings for that appear largely unchanged from earlier years. Then you need to remove the electric fan and fan shroud, which is where things are a bit different.

You need to remove the front bumper cover. It's a bit daunting, but actually isn't that hard. There are 4x screws, with access / blanking plugs at the bottom of where the grill was. Then there are two screws tucked away underneath the bumper cover, roughly in line with either side of the grill, but lower down. Finally there is one screw each side and some plastic clips at either side of the bumper cover, behind the wheel arch liners. Having removed all of those, the bumper cover just pulls away. You can either disconnect the wiring or just lay it on the floor. I recommend a blanket or something to prevent scratches.

Behind the bumper cover, there is a transverse item of hard plastic - don't know how else to describe it - which goes below each headlight from one side to the other. You will need to remove this. Then remove the fixings for the fan and fan shroud. Its a bit fiddly, but the fan shroud will come out first, followed by the fan. There is an electrical connector for the fan top driver's side (UK, RHD) which can be unplugged to remove the fan completely.

There are then two smaller radiators/coolers to move aside before the much larger condenser can be removed. One of these needs a coolant pipe to be disconnected and then can be moved aside. The other slides into a bracket on the driver's side of the condenser. This can be slid out and there is enough room to remove the condenser. I would recommend supporting both the smaller coolers whilst you extract the condenser with cable ties or similar.

Re-assembly is fairly straightforward.

I also had a pinhole in the high pressure alu pipe from condenser back to bulkhead. Access to the condenser end connections is easy enough (I removed coolant expansion bottle), but I couldn't see how to get to the bulkhead end of the pipe for a while. In the end, I removed the cabin filter housing (just two nuts, then pulls out) and it was easy enough.

Hope this helps someone else in future trying to do the same thing.

Like others, I ordered my replacement condenser from autoairconparts.co.uk and the product supplied and service were excellent. Condenser c.£80. I got a replacement pipe from local main dealer and didn't find the price too bad £56.

Re-gas, check for leaks etc was done by local Kwik Fit for a reasonable price. Their machine is completely automatic and pulls a vacuum as the first step in the process, checking that the vacuum can be held for 15 mins, so it doesn't really require any specialist knowledge. They connected it up and then were quite happy to let me watch the displays etc. on the machine for the next 40 mins or so whilst is went through the process, whilst they carried on a fitted tyres to other cars. Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
-----------------------------------
Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

Thanks to this original post, replaced mine today �

Excellent guide, took me about 2hours 30mins.. the bolts from air con to condenser were extremely tight to say the least !! 2003 Range Rover 4.4 Litre V8 - Adriatic blue

2003 Range Rover 4.4 Litre V8 -Maintenance History Click Here = http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39687.html

great post i have to replace my compressor nd this looks like a front end strip down same as when i did my belts and tensinors so may as well change the condenser at the same time as it will be out. 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

I've just changed my condenser, wish i had looked in the forum first, as I took a different approach.
I didn't take the top panel off as I feared breaking some of the plastic items.
My gas had run off earlier in the year due to the pin hole in the normal place
I removed the engine fan and fan shroud
undo the alloy pipe connections and the securing screw under the pipe connections
undo the 2 big plastic screws in the slam panel
Gently but firmly pushed the radiator toward the engine, it only needs to move the thickness of the condenser
Have another pair of hands to help undo the plastic end caps that hold condenser in
Together lift the damaged condenser out I used a big pair of mole grips on the opposite side to where the inlet pipes are
Then clean out debris in lower section of condenser holder
Slide new condenser into the holder
lubricate o rings screw pipes back into new condenser
replace securing screw
reverse the removal process

I have just had my condenser replaced by John Delaney motors, Stockport.
Non L/R part used ,12 month warranty on the condenser.

£820 including VAT, Is this reasonable ? RR owner

Too late to ask if the price is right, if they've already done the work.