I went into the field today to get one of the trailers and as the entrance to the gate is quite steep I often go into Low Range.

I did this today in the Supercharged and it transferred range without any problems. No warnings or anything and it drove into the field without any issues. I came to a stop, put it into park, walked back and closed the gate.

I started driving again and noticed a funny noise, almost as if something was dragging under the car. I stopped, switched off, got out and had a look and couldn’t find anything. Got back in, restarted the car, put it in drive and had no drive. I then went to reverse and it sounded like there was a machine gun noise under the car and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with transmission faults, handbrake faults, the suspension dropped itself, and the Hi/Lo lights on the switch were flashing.

I performed the reset with fuse 37 and managed to limp the car in high range out of the field back to the drive with no funny noises but as soon as I select reverse it makes a loud noise.

Could it be my transfer box motor that’s seized and hasn’t engaged properly or am I looking at something more sinister?

IID tool has the following errors stored.

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The ‘Fuse 37 trick’ was for earlier L322s with the NV225 transfer case, where you could force the transfer box shift motor to select neutral (primarily for towing the car on all four wheels for recovery purposes). This doesn’t apply to the later DD295 Magna Steyr transfer box because short distance (30 miles) and low speed (<30mph) recovery towing is permitted in high range.

Your symptoms sound very similar to when the transmission output shaft splines fail due to fretting corrosion :

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic47158.html

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post331450.html

Phil

Thanks Phil,

It's strange that it's happened the minute I'd switched it to low range. Would that problem with the drive flange cause constant electrical faults that won't clear? With the ignition on, the faults all return as soon as the faults are cleared without even starting the car or trying to engage drive.

I've removed the transfer box motor from the car and when putting power to it, it is spinning, however, when metering across the pins in the plug, the resistance across the potentiometer doesn't seem to change.

I need to try and find the wiring diagram for the transfer box motor and try and find out what good readings should be from the potentiometer.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Although I can see why the warnings would come up if the spline was slipping, due to the mismatch in speeds, I agree that (after clearing) they wouldn’t be displayed if you just turn on the ignition, before you’ve even started the engine and selected Drive or Reverse. Hopefully, then, it is just an electrical gremlin.

Just to confirm that this is a 2007 4.2 V8 Supercharged that we’re talking about (with the ZF 6HP26 transmission)?

I’ll have a spare shift motor lying around somewhere if you just wanted to try swapping it over to see if it had an effect?

Because the DD295 was used in the RRS and LR3/4 (and is still being used) there may be information/help on other forums, too.

Phil

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic12404.html

Thanks Phil,

I’ll try and do some digging later.

It’s strange, if I hold it on the brakes and put it in D it’s fine. If I put it into R it sounds like a machine gun and the car shakes.

Really hoping it’s not a gearbox out job

There’s someone locally breaking a TDV8 Sport so I’ve asked about his transfer box motor as time is in short supply just now. Wish I’d left the bloody thing in High now.

Calibrating the position sensor nor the clutches with the IID seems to cause anything to happen or any clunks to occur.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

It sounds as though the transfer case isn't engaging properly and that when driving forwards the gears are holding engaged enough to provide drive but when spinning backwards the gears disengage enough to jump teeth.
I would try changing between high and low range many times without engaging D or R, hoping to free-up a sticky selector.

Will it drive forwards and reverse in low range?

Hopefully it's not a stripped gearbox o/p shaft.

Unfortunately due to the electrical fault codes that are stored I can’t do anything. As soon as I turn the ignition on the Lo light on the dashboard flashes and the Hi and Lo lights on the switch both flash so I can’t do anything to change the range.

If I clear the fault codes using the IID tool with only the ignition switched on the faults return immediately, again, without even starting the car.

I reckon something electrical has failed and it’s causing the fault code to be triggered immediately upon powering on.

If I put 12v directly to the transfer box motor is turns but when metering out all combinations of the pins in the plug I’m not seeing any changes in the resistance across the rheostat.

There’s someone breaking a Disco 3 locally so I’m tempted to go and get the motor, solenoid and sensor off it and try swapping components over on mine.

Both of these are available locally too, I just want to be certain that there’s no differences between the transfer boxes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISC...890.l49286

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-SPO...890.l49286

The 2nd open has a damper on it that mine doesn’t appear to have but I don’t know if they just bolt on or not.

I’ve just found this online which suggests I won’t see a resistance change across the sensor if it’s a HALL sensor.



David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

The transfer case numbers have changed over the years but they supersede to the latest number.

Perhaps the drive inside the transfer case has to be manually reset before refitting the motor. I recall reading something about this but it was too long ago to recall the specifics.

Another interesting point is that when the car lost drive it was in Lo range.

I messed around with Fuse 37 but Phil advised that process was for the earlier transfer box.

When I restarted the car and it moved again, it was in Hi range. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I've been giving everything another check over this afternoon.

I've checked all of the wires from the TCCM to the Transfer Box Motor, Selector Position Sensor and Mode Selector Solenoid and have continuity with minimal resistance on all of them.

I've checked the resistance across the coil on the mode selector solenoid and found it at 0.8ohms which is strange. The wires going into it are tiny and with I=V/R that gives a 15A draw. At this point I was fairly certain I'd found my problem so I slid under the TDV8, unplugged it's solenoid and measured that and am getting a resistance reading of 0.9ohms so close enough to rule out a fault on the SC solenoid I think.

Measuring at the ECU plug I'm seeing:

Between pins 7 and 10 (Selector Position Sensor) I'm seeing 163.9ohms
Between pins 9 and 12 (Mode Selector Solenoid) I'm seeing 1 ohm
Between pins 15 - 18 (Transfer Box Motor Power) I'm seeing 1.8ohms

I'm wondering if it could possibly be an ECU fault as everything else seems to be checking out unless it's the HALL sensor on the motor that's failed.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I went to see a friend this afternoon who has a TDV8. I plugged my ECU into his car and tried to clear the fault codes. Despite clearing them, the same 5 codes in the Terrain Response ECU came straight back, as did the one in the TCCM and the one in the Vehicle Dynamic ECU.

So, long story short, I'm fairly convinced it's the TCCM ECU that's failed so I'm going to look for a replacement. I just hope it's nothing on my car that's caused the ECU to fail.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Has the solenoid been removed? If so then it must be energized during refitment according to the D4 WSM.

No, thankfully the resistance was a doddle to measure with it in situ. I was doing my best to avoid removing it as I’d read that online about refitting.

I’ve managed to get a spare ECU from someone breaking a car about an hour away this evening so I’ll get it fitted tomorrow.

Just gotta hope it’s not something on the car that’s killed the ECU.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

A different control module will have to be calibrated.

Have you tried selecting high or low range even though the lights are flashing?

From the D4 WSM...


If clutch control or Range change is not possible due to a permanent fault the driver must seek service assistance at the
earliest opportunity.
If the system suffers a fault, which causes the transfer box to fail in neutral, the control module is designed to continue
attempting to engage the requested range or return to its original range for a fixed number of attempts. If this has not
been successful and the low range lamp is still flashing the driver should bring the vehicle to a halt and attempt the range
change again while stationary. If this does not work after a number of attempts, key off for 30 seconds, restart engine and
request range change again while stationary. The driver must seek service assistance at the earliest opportunity.