Hi all

Well I will have owned Sylvia for 2 years on 28th February and in that time she has been (dare I say it...) a very reliable and comfortable car.

I have recently been toying with the idea of rust proofing her underside and cavities, but thinking back to my Disco owning days I was not looking forward to the normal messy waxoyl method.

Over the last few months I have been looking at DIY options and have finally settled on Lanoguard. Lanoguard is the new boy on the rust proofing block, however it is very easy to apply and nowhere near as messy as the alternatives. I ordered a 5L container of the stuff along with a smaller spray bottle and a 360 cavity wand. It came to £125.00 or there abouts.

I’ll update you all on my experience of using it. In the meantime there a few videos over on YouTube of it being applied to various vehicles.

Funnily enough I was only reading about that the other day, Dinotrol has always been my choice but very interested to hear what you think of Lanoguard... Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

This chap applied it to his Defender and compared to Ditrinol, waxoyl and the like it looked simple..



Jim

I know Lanoguard is highly regarded for it's rust prevention / self healing properties, but my understanding is it needs to be re-applied at least every year.

Probably ok for the rear wheel arches / cills and other vulnerable areas, but I wouldn't want to do the complete underside every year.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
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Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

I have done my 2010 L322 over a year ago and still looking good and haven’t need to renew it yet but it’s so simple it wouldn’t bother me doing every year

Darren - did you use Lanoguard on yours then? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Yes used Lanoguard used about 3.5l underneath and while I was at it took plastic wheel arch liners out and side trims and also did under there

ive just bought some as well will be giving mine a good coating shortly. L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

Yes seen this on you tube, as mentioned I understood it's life span short before needing topping up so that and price put me off. I paid £28.00 for 5L of waxoyl and that will do everything and last a few years. Lanoguard does look less messy so will be interested in users comments. 2009 Range Rover Vogue 3.6TDV8, Bournville, Parchment/Navy
2005 Jaguar XJ350 3.0 V6 Sovereign, Jaguar Racing Green, Ivory
1997 TVR Chimaera 450, Formula Red, Grey

I am probably going this way as well, how bad are the plastic trims to get on and off will I need some clips etc ?

I broke 3 trim clips on the first side and none on the other ( sill trim )

I managed to get both sill covers off without breaking any, first time that's happened. I do have a plastic fittings kit so did have some spares if needed.

Thanks are they anything special or will my mixed box (bought for repairing a 5 series) be enough ?

Mine was just a mixed box of fasteners bought off EBay and they were in there. Picture below of what they are like, just check your kit.
 2009 Range Rover Vogue 3.6TDV8, Bournville, Parchment/Navy
2005 Jaguar XJ350 3.0 V6 Sovereign, Jaguar Racing Green, Ivory
1997 TVR Chimaera 450, Formula Red, Grey

Perfect thank you