I do get the burnt out switch issue as well, that's why I'm reluctant to fork out £120 for a new switch to just have it blow again.

If it helps, this is what I've been able to work out:

Using my (faulty?) switch and with the lower glove box solenoid disconnected the supply to it (2 & 6) are at a permanent 12v. That's wrong as the solenoid only needs a momentary current to flip the latch open. When I measure across the upper glove box pines (1 & 5), I get 0v. Press the switch and it sends a momentary 12v, latch releases. That's how it should be.

When I plug the glove box solenoid in I get that lovely smell of molten PCB and a blown fuse (Aux 16).

Disconnecting the switch altogether I have continuity between the switch pins and solenoid plug with no leakage to chassis and no shorts.

I'm wondering if the problem lies with the TFS(whatever that stands for) and the Inhibit pin. The fuse that blows feeds the TFS input.

How does this compare to what you've found?

My issue is very similar, except the fuse doesn’t blow. I’ve refitted my glove box for now and attached 2 wires to the solenoid to allow me to energise the release mechanism and open the box until I get a solution.
I’m wondering if it might be a simple case of just cutting the TPS and inhibit wires? I’m not that fussed about it staying locked when the car is locked. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Old topic but I too have just run into this issue on my '09 (USA spec).

I know my switch is toast since I can see the burned out chip on the board.

I ordered a new switch AND two new latches (in case one of them is also toast).

I did notice that for the lower glove box there are three connectors; floor illumination, inside glove box light and the latch actuator. I found out the hard way that both the connector for the inside light and the latch actuator both fit in the connector for the latch. I'm guessing that a constant 12 VDC to the bulb or to the latch caused my issue.

When I get my new switch I'll disconnect both latches and check voltage to everything and then label each connector. The lights should have a constant 12 VDC and the latches only when the switch is pressed (I'm assuming, I don't know this for a fact).

Larry. 2009 Range Rover L322 Autobiography
Bournville/Ivory
Save lives, give blood.

Hi Larry,

I wish you luck. I did replace the switch with a new one but unfortunately that lasted about five minutes before it too failed. Having tested all of the cabling and latches without finding issue I gave in. Since the switch, in its failed state, was providing a +12v to the latch I simply interrupted that wire with a new momentary push switch. I hid this away under the glove box on the same panel the footwell light resides.

Problem eventually solved but not as elegantly as I’d have like.

All the best,
Jonathan

I replaced the switch and both latches on Wed (I'm writing this on Sat) and so far all's going well!

I did test both latches with an ohm meter and both latches showed nearly zero resistance while the new replacements were higher (sorry, forgot the actual value but I did take a photograph and will post actual values when I can).

I have no idea if the troubles others have had had the same root cause but in my situation I think that I somehow blew out the switch and the blown switch then blew out the latches. Or, maybe visa versa?

Either way I'm glad I splurged for the extra $100 (USD) for the two latches since in my case I needed them, even if I didn't know that until after I purchased them.

Larry. 2009 Range Rover L322 Autobiography
Bournville/Ivory
Save lives, give blood.