I need to replace the main thermostat on our Td6. It has never got very warm since we bought it 3 years ago and today at 8 degrees doing a steady 75 MPH it was barely out of the blue section.

Where is a good place to buy an OE quality 'stat at a reasonable price?

More likely the egr thermostat. Easy to do as the top front of the engine. Get one for a BMW, there are 2 types of fitting on the BMW so be assured if you get the wrong one the ends are removable so you can swap your old over.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-1-3-5-7-X3-...SwbtNZ9wLW
 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

I was aware that the EGR 'stat could need doing too but from what I have read a lot of people did that first then still had to do the main 'stat.

A guy has recently posted on the L322 Facebook page that you can change the main 'stat without removing the fan, by accessing it from the left side, so I thought that I would give it a go.

Last edited by GDM on 18th Mar 2019 11:18pm. Edited 1 time in total

"the ends are removable so you can swap your old over"

Be aware though that the insides of the EGR thermostat are under spring pressure so as you remove the metal clip the end and probably the insides will try to fly off. Be prepared as you remove the metal clip to hold and slowly release the end section.

There is far less room to replace the EGR thermostat on an L322 than in the BMW video. Things are much easier if you're prepared to cut/sacrifice the short section of rubber vacuum hose so you can get to the second thermostat securing bolt, and you have a short length of generic vacuum hose plus pair of hose clips on hand to replace it with.

I had the same problem with the engine running too cool. Replacing the EGR thermostat certainly increased the temperature, but no to the centre of the gauge where I believe it should run. So the main thermostat probably needs doing as well at some point. Once you've got the old EGR thermostat off, if you can blow through it (when it is cold) then that is certainly part of the problem.

Main and EGR thermostats:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic8731.html .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I did have the EGR stat off once before and I had a replacement one ready to fit but it had the wrong end (ribbed). My son used that on his E46 320d.

So where have you bought your main and EGR 'stats from? Are Behr the OEM. Rimmers do an OEM main stat for a good price, which is unusual for them!

Have you tried Duckworths ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I read on one of the landyzone pages that one alternative to replacing the main thermostat is to fit a second thermostat in the top radiator hose. The thermostat to use appears to be one like this (www.ebay.co.uk/i/293644625064) from a Renault 4, and this appears to be a 'common' mod for the Freelander TD4 as well where replacing the main thermostat is a right pain (although easier than the TD6).

Anyone done this mod, as a 'temporary' fix until there is another need to get down the front of the engine?

I run this mod in the winter, found when got the car three years ago in the first winter even after a twelve mile run the fbh was still running (reckon gauge got to be third of way up before it cuts out) so after egr stat and then engine stat (engine stat of the bay) it was no better so ok fit genuine stat and got to say the £80 it cost might as well stopped in my pocket, ran just the same temp this is with no fan or shroud so bit of internet search came up with freelander mod, got my local factors to order up a reno stat cut the clip off top hose engine end pushed stat it hose secure with jubilee, same run now in winter sees gauge dead in the middle and top of rad maybe just warm,picked up a s/h top hose and swop over in summer only need to drain 5 liters out of rad to do the job well worth the bother I think.

Thanks kds2. Why do you swap the hose back in the summer? Do you find the thermostat restricts the flow too much when the weather is warmer?

General question: there are several colours of coolant available. Original Havoline stuff apparently is orange, most of the L322 parts vendors seem to stock at least two colours (red and blue?), and I've heard green mentioned as well. Presumably the colour signifies a particular type. What's best for the TD6? Does it matter, as long as two types aren't mixed?

It is the pinky-orange stuff for the TD6 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Joe. That looks like the OAT stuff.

The plastic hose connectors - I assume you just remove the lock wire thing then the connector just pulls apart?

Quote:

I assume you just remove the lock wire thing then the connector just pulls apart?

That is the theory.....  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I change over in spring just to be on the safe side stuart_2006, did have to have a run down to wife`s sisters last year after I had changed over and that day saw the outside temprature about 10c but even after 130 miles at mostly 70 mph the bottom of rad was only just warm with cabin temp set at 22c, couple of other reasons for doing the mod most of my trips are often only three or four miles so engine never gets chance to warm up in the winter other thing being after doing remote switch on park heating most of heat generated by the fbh now goes to help defrost and heat the cabin, I always try to keep engine revs below 1750/2000 rpm till I see the temp gauge about third of the way up so not to stress a cold engine.

Just purchased the rover stat to do the TD4 'mod' on my TD6 . which way does the stat fix ? i assume the coolant flows from the engine to the top of the radiator .