Went out this morning (2010 3.6TDV8) and there was a quarter of a tank registering. After parking up at the park and coming back to the car it said it was empty with 0 miles. Took it and filled up and still says empty. Digital dash. Any ideas? tia

There's a TSB on the in tank pump and connectors doing this. Could be your problem, as could the pump falling about in the tank.

The repair is fairly easy and a search on in tank pump, fuel gauge readings etc. may help.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic46574.html

Let us know what you find. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Thanks, I’ll check that out.

J

I think this is the TSB I referred to.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10102562-9340.pdf

HTH with the investigations.

If you decide to do this mod, I'd suggest removing both off and near side units and checking them over. The offside main unit may show signs of the bridge, white pastic, part cracking. You can do a simple repair to prevent a later problem. Mine failed and the pump fell over, repaired and so far so good.  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Most helpful.

I’d like to do it properly and need to find the tool “ g Crimping Tool 418-116A”
Any ideas. Also my tank is completely full so I’ll need to empty it somehow I guess.

common fault and lots of threads on here about it.

I've seen threads where folk have stated that this issue can make the engine stop but that's not the case with my 2010 3.6 tdv8 2010.

I've fixed this on 3 separate cars inc my own 2010 with success. apparently there are also connectors on the LH side of the tank but in my cases opening that side wasn't necessary

the fault is due to really design which has the wires from the tank connector to the internal sensor going through a 2 way connector inside the tank which just swings around inside the tank without any support.

since those wires are carrying a very low current, the connector just requires a wiggle to make it work again. the connectors have not 'pitted' like electrical switched carrying heavy current have a habit of doing.

you will need a Stanley knife, a screwdriver, hammer, half an hour and a pair of marigolds!

1) tilt RH rear seat forwards and identify the floor bracket that was securing the seat

2) the bracket prevents removal of the carpet so slit the carpet under the bracket so that the carpet can be peeled back (you cant see the slit when you put it back together)

3) identify the curved trim panel that lies between the seat and the door opening (when the seat is in its normal position) and lift / remove

4) remove boot wooden floor covering which covers the spare wheel

5) peel back carpet to reveal the RH round tank access panel and unplug electrical connector and 3 hoses

6) using screwdriver and hammer, knock the panel access cover off (right hand thread) and lift up revealing blue and black wires. the blue ones go to the sensor unit and since your tank is full you will want to use the marigolds.

7) wiggle the 2 connectors which are about 6-9 inches inside the tank.

put it back together!

Thanks for the help. I dove into the tank and ended up replacing the first black plug which did the trick. Didn't fancy taking the whole pump assembly out as I'm just a humble home mechanic. Great tip about the carpet but I found it easier, less fiddly without the marigolds.

Bloody love this forum  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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TheJohnnyH wrote:

but I found it easier, less fiddly without the marigolds.

I did but trying to hold on to the tiny wire with slippery marigolds was impossible. It’s ok, I rinsed them off before dinner.