Does not matter, match to existing one.
Its always good policy to replace existing items (if possible) with new when undertaking a major project.
Its worth it for peace of mind if nothing else.

Thanks Pete, will report back with pictures

Researching how I can stop the air getting into the system.. seen a thread in my travels to put a piece of wood to depress the brake pedal but wondering how would it work as the wood could come loose when I take the pipe off Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Scot, I understand that home bleeding the brakes is a daunting task but,

a, you will have air full new pipes,

and more importantly,

b, you are replacing badly corroded brake pipes, thus certainly fluid contamination. Take the opportunity to replace your brake fluid at the same time.

Best, Rich L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. 07MY
ML 320 7 Seat full leather etc. (The Black Pearl)

Thanks Rich, fairly confident to do the job (thanks to everyones advice here)

Just want to make sure the air doesn't get into the abs.. other than that its fairly straightforward (fingers crossed)  Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

check my post on the brake system flush, it is easy and straightforward provided you have vacuum pump. feeder bottle is essential as it will give you 1/2 liter of extra fluid so not to pull air into the system.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44822.html
whale you at it may as well change blleadin nepeles for the SS ones.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic48261.html
 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

Thanks Nino.. this is very useful.

Assume when I take the pipes off Air cant get into the system unless the brake pedal is pressed? I will be using the Gunson bleed kit so going by my understanding I can do the pipe work and then carryout the bleeding.. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

As soon as I undid a fitting I quickly screwed one of my homemade blanking plugs (see below) into the fitting. This prevented backflow of air bubbles and dirty fluid along the brake line.


I tried just crimping the pipe end but it started to weep so made some new ones up and sealed the end with ordiniary electrical solder. no line pressure so worked a treat.

Also its worth considering making some female ones up to screw on the end of the new pipe as your feeding it along the car, this will prevent ingress of dirt and keep the end clean.

Peter

This is super useful Pete.. thank you Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Ok.. so took about 6 hours.. both rear pipes changed and all went to plan.. I have just bled the rears so far as it was getting dark..

All good, no leaks thanks to all the advice for you guys.. cheers !!

I started the car and felt the pedal was soft.. Once I bleed then hopefully I should get a decent pedal.. my reservoir did empty when the line was burst so hoping there was no damage to Servo (read some threads where folk couldn't get a decent pedal even after multiple bleeds)

What is the sequence again for bleeding? I read Joe's thread which has the diagram but I'm confused with LHD and RHD.. my abs is on the driver side so not sure if I start from front driver side as its nearer to the ABS/Servo.

PS. The Gunson Bleed kit is amazing

Please advise.. (.. and any other reason for a soft pedal after brake line burst Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

Left rear, (ie furthest away from master cylinder)
Right rear,
Left front,
Right front (ie nearest to master cylinder).

It worked for me.

Sounds like you still have air in the system if you have a soft pedal after you have finished. L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. 07MY
ML 320 7 Seat full leather etc. (The Black Pearl)

Thanks Rich, this is what confuses me.. whilst the general rule is start from further way and finish at the nearest one to the Master Cylinder, RAVE suggests a different sequence.

i.e.

1- Nearside Front (Passenger)
2- Offside Front (Driver)
3- Nearside Rear (Passenger)
4- Offside Rear (Driver)

Not sure which one it is as the RAVE diagram shows ABS on the front passenger side whereas on the newer L322s the ABS is right in front of the Master Cylinder at the Driver side. Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

The version of RAVE I have shows a completely difference sequence. I am assuming its for the earlier L322s.



Please can someone advise which sequence is correct for my 2010 L322 (ABS pump on the Driver side)[/img] Current:
- L560 Velar HSE R-Dynamic D180
- Peugeot 508 2011 - 2.2 HDi GT

Past:
- FFRR V 2010 - 3.6 TDV8
- Citroen C4 1.6i Petrol
- Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID
- Peugeot 607 2.2 HDi
- Nissan Primera 1.8 SVE
- Honda Civic 1.6 VTEC

UPDATE - All sorted now.

Thank you all for the advice over the past few days. I have now been able to complete the job.

I had never done the brake lines before and this was my first experience. It took me 2 days from start to finish. It wouldn't have been possible without the 2 very useful threads by Joe and Pete (cheers folks)

Joe's guide https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25799.html and Pete's guide https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic47629...ake+pipes.

The pipes on the front were ok so I replaced the pipe from under the wheel arch to rear left and rear right. Used the 25m role and still had about 1 meter left.

Some tips from me: (especially the brake bleeding)

Fitting
1- a good flaring tool is absolute must. I bought the one below and the flare were spot on first attempt.

Click image to enlarge

top job well done

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Well done buddy, great result for you .