Phil. wrote:

Andy,

I've popped out and checked mine. I attached the Optimate and Cteck cables straight to the main battery terminals and its been fine for years. Just be careful not to disconnect either terminal from the battery when fitting the optimate cables as a disruption of battery power to the RR will likely cause issues.

Also, you don't need to remove the spare tyre entirely from the boot, which is a pain to do cos' it's so heavy. Simply prop it up using a piece of wood or similar and you can access the battery terminals easily.

Andy,

I fixed mine to the battery with the connectors rather than the crock clips. Make sure the crock clips don't come off when driving otherwise it won't charge

You will be able to tell if the crock clips have come off without looking in the boot because the optimate charging display won't be flashing. MY23 D350 HSE
On my 7th RR plus various other JLR vehicles

I managed to connect everything up using the posts under the bonnet, feeding the cables back through the door shut at the join with the back of the bonnet, so no cables visible. LEDs came on and initially showed battery needed charging, but after about 10 mins moved to amber. One query though, when locked up with nobody in the car, there is a red lamp pulsing on the right hand side of the dash. It has no ISO symbol, just a red lamp, highlighted in the pic. What is this?




As ever, grateful for advice.

Andy

Andy,

Mine has the same red flashing light when locked. I assume its notification that the RR is alarmed but maybe someone will tell us otherwise. MY23 D350 HSE
On my 7th RR plus various other JLR vehicles

Yes, its the 'alarm set' indicator - flashes about once every two seconds.

I can't find any reference to it in the owners handbook, but is referred to in the workshop manual.

Thanks. I tried the handbook and drew a blank, hence posting the question.

I've had my old c-tek connected for a couple of days now via the tow socket electrics. However not all the LEDs light up is this correct or is it OK and I can just disconnect. Does 8 just light up in recondition mode? I would RTFM if I could find it

Cant answer that question but Im pretty sure you need to set the mode to the snowflake symbol if you have an AGM battery. Current: FF Westminster money pit

Gone:
RRS 4.2 SC
RRS 3.6 TDV8
FL2 TD4

I had to look up exactly this for my MXS10 as I only bought it a couple of weeks ago, and it appears level 8 (the special "pulse charge" feature to monitor condition and do tiny pulses of charge as needed to keep the battery topped up) only comes on after 10 days on level 7 (float charge).

My brand new MXS10 does exactly the same, as I haven't yet left it connected to the same vehicle for more than 24 hours, and it only ever reaches level 7.

I think you're done and you can disconnect. All LR cars from 1984
2021.5 Vogue SE D300 Carpathian Grey
2018 Vogue SE British Racing Green GONE

Yep I got a manual online, charged to “snowflake” as Bradders suggested which apparently is best for AGM batteries and it went strait back to seven lights lit so just disconnected everything. In my new manual it does agree with what you say and the 8th LED only comes on after many days connected to perform pulse charging. Actually the biggest problem I had was finding the connector which after buying from the forum I put somewhere safe.  Geoff

Thats correct, I have a "garage queen" that sits there on the CTEK over winter (not the RR) and after a week or so it lights up level 8 and thats where it stays just monitoring the battery and only adding charge if needed.

Maccaa Current FF Westminster 4.4 V8

I charge mine once weekly on agm setting on the mxs10 until it goes to stage 7, green light then I disconnect it. Can’t leave it permanently on trickle where it’s currently parked. Trip hazard for postie
Stage 8 is when it cuts in on long trickle charges  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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