Doh - I've just gone to charge my other car & found a CTEK in the boot - I now remember buying it last year.... oh well - always good to have spare

Alistair, Is that Age Onset Al...... er, I forgot what I was going to say???

Corbyn.

Thanks Jeremy - I should have voted for you - no doubt every household would have been issued a free CTEK

Yep, free CTEK, mask, gloves and a red labor badge saying ‘Thanks for staying Home’ 👍

Quote:

red labor badge

With that spelling it's Republican not Labour.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

American spell check... Corbyn thinks they have the best English language...just go,check under your hood or in your trunk!

Ordered a Ctek 7 from Tayna late Friday afternoon, delivered this morning. Used the croc clips to attach to the posts under the bonnet and plugged it in. Now fully charged. Will look to hard wire to the posts at the weekend. You can't swim uphill in custard all the time, sometimes you just have to go with the flow.

Update. Ordered the Optimate solar charger/conditioner today, as recommended by Phil at top of the thread. Will be delivered tomorrow!
Went out to the car today and having not moved for 4 weeks was a bit apprehensive. Well, it started on the first touch of the button and the PB released without problems. I drove forward and back about 20ft to move the wheels and then gave the front wheels a turn so that the tyres point into the kerb, put a couple of logs in front of the rear wheels to chock them, having left the car in park with PB off. Let it run for a couple of minutes and then switched off. Will fit the conditioner tomorrow.

A couple of weeks since mine has moved and the solar charger is doing it’s stuff. MY23 D350 HSE
On my 7th RR plus various other JLR vehicles

OK, bear with the technical dunce here. Today’s plan is to hook up the optimate solar charger/conditioner I’ve just bought.

I’ve read up on the wiki about where the main battery is and to access it I need to remove the spare. Reading the WIKI on here I find the following warning:

CAUTION: To avoid damaging the BMS control module, always use the ground (negative (-) terminal stud point on the right side top mount. Never connect directly to the primary battery negative terminal when connecting a slave power supply to the vehicle, the BMS control module can be damaged.
Failure to use the recommended ground point will lead to the setting of a DTC . Incorrect information of battery condition will be retained by the BMS control module due to the unmonitored current flow into the battery. The system will however, recognize and compensate for the change in battery status after a period of time.

Forgive my total ignorance, but what is “the right side top mount” and where in the boot will I find it?

I thought this would be easy, just clip the charger croc clips to the appropriate battery terminals and that’s it. Seems that’s wrong!

I’d be grateful for some wise words from those more technically competent than me.

Thanks

Andy

could it be the neg and pos in the engine bay? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Use the ones under the bonnet

The positive terminal is under a cover & the negative one is exposed

[Edited to add]

Just realised you're talking about a solar charger, so presumably want it inside the car - Sorry - can't help there as I've not done that.

Problem with that is I don’t have off street parking so the car is parked on the street and using the under bonnet points would surely mean having to leave the bonnet unsecured and also mean either leaving the solar charger on the bonnet for someone to help themselves, or running the cable through the door and shutting the door onto it, so possibly damaging it or not getting a good current flow.

As I say, I am a technical dunce, but the more I look into what should be a very simple thing to do, the more confused I become!

Andy,

I've popped out and checked mine. I attached the Optimate and Cteck cables straight to the main battery terminals and its been fine for years. Just be careful not to disconnect either terminal from the battery when fitting the optimate cables as a disruption of battery power to the RR will likely cause issues.

Also, you don't need to remove the spare tyre entirely from the boot, which is a pain to do cos' it's so heavy. Simply prop it up using a piece of wood or similar and you can access the battery terminals easily. MY23 D350 HSE
On my 7th RR plus various other JLR vehicles

I've just had the right-hand boot panel off my '17 L405 and lo-and-behold there is a nice, permanently live battery feed in there! (it is a distribution point from the main battery cable)

So, on went a in-line fuse and cable to a CTEK socket and now I have a perfect charge point tucked in by the right-hand rear seat so to charge my car I simply plug in there and shut the door on the cable (there is plenty of room in the rubber seal around the door)

I used this feed to supply my dash-cam, too - so now that'll work if the car is vibrated and the accessory-control to enable normal recording comes off the back of a cigar lighter/power socket.

A good mornings fiddling! 2017 - L405 SC - WOW! just WOW!
2014 - L405 4.4
2010 - L322 3.6 - Carried me 100,581 miles then broke big-time

There are 10 types of people in this world;
Those that understand binary,
and those that don't.