Hey Guys, I have a 2011 Range Rover Supercharged and am trying to run a 1/0 gauge power wire from the battery to the rear for a sound system.

I found an old thread where a member posted where he ran his wire for a rear amp install; however, my 1/0 gauge wire seems to be too thick to run down that same location. It was along the bottom floor trim panels on the passenger side. the thread is at this link:

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/amp-su...ver.49297/

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to run this wire instead? I took all the passenger side panels off and had to put them back together, would driver’s side work?

Would running the wire along the outside of the truck be better/only option? If so, where should it be run along to be safe and not be affected by heat, etc.?

On the driver side is room enough even for an entire cable loom. I used the driver side on my 2004 when I changed the system to an Android Head unit. It's a pain in the but it’s the only way. Going outside would require an armored cable to be safe.

Thanks for that info! Any tips for running the cable down that side?

The wire harness cover that I have to get under, do I just need to remove the 3 screws and pull it up? I noticed that it extends to further under the carpet.

Perhaps amp vs wiring needs a look?

May I suggest you see if you can upgrade your Harmon Kardon amp to HD 1200w (assuming your have standard Harmon Kardon).

PowerfulUK did a YouTube vid plus there are some threads here.

I have the HD system and it is silly loud.

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Did you just upgrade your amp only and keep the original speakers? I watched one of his videos which is the Range Rover Sport L494 Amplifier Upgrade, I’m not sure if that was the one you were referring to.

I have the upgraded 19 speaker Harman Kardon sound system in my truck already. I am happy with the sound from my speakers and even the subwoofers for that matter. My truck just jerks a bit when the bass hits at high volume as I’m driving. I suspect that since the installer took power from the rear fuse box for the aftermarket amps, the vehicle is being starved of power and that is causing the jerking. The rear fuse box voltage drops to under 12V when the sound system in cranked up. The weird thing is that for the first few year when I bought this truck I didn’t have this problem and it started later. The battery and alternator have both been replaced already.

I have 2 Alpine Type X subs and 2 Alpine PDX-M12 amps (one to each sub) installed. The sound system is amazing, it’s just the voltage drop to the fuse box I am trying to eliminate which could potentially cause bigger problems if not taken care of I would think.

Not only would it be easier to wire but would also protect you better if you fitted a leisure battery in the boot with a split charger.

Just a thought

I was looking into fitting a second battery into the trunk. I can modify my amp rack in the spare tire wheel well to accommodate the battery and use that same power while I will be running from the main battery to power that battery instead. I even have a battery already that I could use but it doesn’t match the specs of the main battery which was recommended. I currently have a capacitor installed in the back at the amp.

I was told on another forum that the second battery would just be an additional load on the alternator and unless I was listening to music while the engine was off, I wouldn’t see much benefit to that.

I was told to look into a high output alternator instead. Any thoughts on that?

Jasdip wrote:

Thanks for that info! Any tips for running the cable down that side?

The wire harness cover that I have to get under, do I just need to remove the 3 screws and pull it up? I noticed that it extends to further under the carpet.

The middle pillar (B-Pillar) was going to be my next question. Did you have to remove the pillar pieces or were you able to get by just by removing the black piece at the bottom of the pillar?

Problem is, you can't remove the black part without partially remove the upper part.
As the 1/0 gauge wire is quite stiff you may be able to push it true without removing the B-pillar pieces completely.

Quote:

Did you just upgrade your amp only and keep the original speakers?

Quote:

I watched one of his videos which is the Range Rover Sport L494 Amplifier Upgrade, I’m not sure if that was the one you were referring to.

Yes

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

I ended up getting it done. That was tough!

I went from the spare tire area (where the amps are) to the fuse box area (right side), then along the passenger side under the trim. At the B-pillar, I wasn't able to go along it since the wire was too thick so I had to cut across the carpet a bit and go under the passenger seat (had to remove the seat). Then back on the other side of the B-pillar and went under the wire harness cover on the passenger side and dropped it into the existing wiring channel. Then up the right side of the glove box. Behind the glove box is a plastic grommet which I drilled a hole in exactly the size of the cable and passed the cable through. I put silicone around the cable for extra protection. Then up to the battery. The battery and battery tray had to be removed to get to the grommet to retrieve the wire from the inside.

I have never done something like this before and was able to get it done, even though it took me many hours!! I doubt the installer would have done as clean of a job as this. If anyone would like more details or has any questions, post a reply or send me a message.

Am I missing something here, there is a thick cable running from the battery direct to the fuse box in the rear RHS, why not take a feed from there? I believe like me all those with a second battery make connections from here.

@wayneg is that part of a DT90? I've been toying with the idea of one of those - if it is, can you share your experience with it?

Roi354, I grabbed that photo from Google images, I believe its one from the Traxide instructions, http://www.traxide.com.au/diy-dual-battery...t90-c.html

I did my dual battery set up from scratch, it's very simple. From that thick red cable at the fuse box, I ran a cable to a voltage sensing relay then to the 2nd battery. The battery fits in the well in front of the rear fuse box. Traxide has a very good reputaition so you can use their kit or DIY the parts

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