Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > 1/0 Gauge Wire From Battery to Rear on 2011 Range Rover |
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Roi354 Member Since: 06 Feb 2020 Location: Essex Posts: 32 |
Thanks both.
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1st Apr 2020 9:58am |
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wayneg Member Since: 05 Jun 2013 Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London ) Posts: 798 |
Absolutely agree, if you go the DIY route fit resettable fuses, I fitted 100amp which is more than enough for my needs, a fridge freezer, and camping lights. I dont plan on starting the car with the 2nd battery
[/url] 2007 TDV8 VSE 2003 TD6 gone. 2002 P38a gone 1999 P38a gone 1997 p38a gone 1993 VSE gone 1992 VSE gone 1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone |
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1st Apr 2020 10:08am |
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Jasdip Member Since: 12 Mar 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 25 |
The installer originally used that same rear fuse box to power my system originally; however, I was getting issues with the truck jerking as I was accelerating and the bass hit hard. When checking the voltage at that rear fuse box under heavy load, it was dropping to under 12v. I was advised to run a power wire directly to the battery to avoid starving that fuse box of power under heavy load. The idea was that crucial electronics for the truck are running from that fuse box and the drop in voltage may have been causing the jerking and RPM issues. One of the full thread about it is here: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/veh...221/page-4 |
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1st Apr 2020 8:13pm |
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