Hi All
I'm about to change the brake fluid on my 2011 Tdv8
Has anyone tried using a vacuum bleeder? It almost looks too good to be true. a Sealy kit for £25 looks like it will make it so much easier/cleaner.
Any thoughts?

Nino is your man.
He has written about when he did his 2012.
Cheers
Mike G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Brilliant Mike
Thanks for that, I've ordered the kit and a couple of litres of DOT4

here you go , cass,
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44822.html
 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

used an eezibleed many times and they work fine - when they work! typically, the seal at the top of the bottle starts to leak after you've used them a few times and brake fluid everywhere (buy a sheet of 3mm cork and produce new seals).

however, biggest problem i found when bleeding my 2010 was that the (rear) steel bleed screws were corroded into the aluminium calipers and took huge torque to turn them (not just to 'crack' them but every single degree of movement) felt like they were going to shear like fighting a galled stainless screw.

because of the above, most of the torque involved in tightening them up again was wasted in overcoming the thread friction and when I checked a few days later they were both damp - i.e. not fully tight. finished up replacing the calipers at £75 / pair.

dexion7 an easy fix

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic48261.html
 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

I'm not sure that the corrosion on those nipples would have caused the problems that I experienced.

the corrosion in the pictures seems to be limited to the seat area which might well cause a problem when first cracking them loose but mine were very tight suggesting there was corrosion right up the threads.

Thanks Nino, some great ideas there, I hadn't thought about changing the bleed nipples but it seems daft not to!

dexion7@yahoo.com wrote:

I'm not sure that the corrosion on those nipples would have caused the problems that I experienced.

the corrosion in the pictures seems to be limited to the seat area which might well cause a problem when first cracking them loose but mine were very tight suggesting there was corrosion right up the threads.

When you replace the bleed nipples and have tightened them and put the caps on, cover them with a liberal coating of grease.
They won't corrode then and will be easily undone if needs be in the future.