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Henda



Member Since: 02 Aug 2018
Location: Gateshead
Posts: 282

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Zambezi Silver
Getting ready for rear quarter welding advise please

Hello there
So getting ready to tackle the n/s rear lower rust problem
I tried earlier this year to do a rust cure filler repair but as expected it's back so the next step is to cut out the rot and mig a piece in .
My question is what else do I need ,
I've have or will shortly
1 a mig welder
2 snips
3 angle grinder - with grinding and cutting discs
4 galvanised spray paint ( for behind the panel)
5 filler
6 primer and paint/lacquer
7 masking paper and tape

What I have not got yet is steel plate as I am not sure which thickness is required
So your help will be much appreciated

These photos are from my last repair , and if the permanent repair works good I will post a step by step



Post #530401 9th Oct 2019 2:48pm
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dexion7



Member Since: 06 Jun 2013
Location: Tynemouth
Posts: 291

2010 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Alaska White

well I addressed lots of similar examples on minis when i was younger and learnt that rust usually starts on the inside where you can't see it and what are seeing now is 'the tip of the iceberg'.

you might find that once you hit that with the grinder that the rust extends much further round the arch and along the horizontal section than the picture shows so you will be faced with the quandrary 'how far do i go removing this rust?.

there will also be moisture in the joint between the two panels which will start attacking your workmanship as soon as you're finished!

it's a difficult shape to weld patches onto and the heat from welding will likely affect otherwise sound paint leaving a significant area to fill / paint afterwards.

in addition, when you have finished fixing that section rust will pop up elsewhere.

pretty sure thats not structural so I'd say don't use the mig:

1) use the grinder to remove paint and rust 30mm all around any visible defects
2) use a chisel etc to knock the affected area a few mm below the finished height
3) drill a few holes about 3-4mm here and there to make a key for the filler
4) scrape out as much rust as you can from front and rear
5) heat the area with a hot air gun to dry it out as best as you can
5) put on the filler / paint etc and finish the outside
6) (important) drill a hole somewhere that you can squirt some waxoil / wd40 in behind the repair to slow down further corrosion

Post #530487 10th Oct 2019 1:02pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6409

England 

Plus (if considering welding), you have all the AV electronics just the other side of that panel, these would all need to come out. If you can remove the air vent behind all of that you will see the extent of rust on the inside too... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #530498 10th Oct 2019 3:02pm
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GDM



Member Since: 21 Nov 2016
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 165

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Zambezi Silver

dexion7@yahoo.com wrote:
well I addressed lots of similar examples on minis when i was younger and learnt that rust usually starts on the inside where you can't see it and what are seeing now is 'the tip of the iceberg'.

you might find that once you hit that with the grinder that the rust extends much further round the arch and along the horizontal section than the picture shows so you will be faced with the quandrary 'how far do i go removing this rust?.

there will also be moisture in the joint between the two panels which will start attacking your workmanship as soon as you're finished!

it's a difficult shape to weld patches onto and the heat from welding will likely affect otherwise sound paint leaving a significant area to fill / paint afterwards.

in addition, when you have finished fixing that section rust will pop up elsewhere.

pretty sure thats not structural so I'd say don't use the mig:

1) use the grinder to remove paint and rust 30mm all around any visible defects
2) use a chisel etc to knock the affected area a few mm below the finished height
3) drill a few holes about 3-4mm here and there to make a key for the filler
4) scrape out as much rust as you can from front and rear
5) heat the area with a hot air gun to dry it out as best as you can
5) put on the filler / paint etc and finish the outside
6) (important) drill a hole somewhere that you can squirt some waxoil / wd40 in behind the repair to slow down further corrosion


In other words, bodge it up with filler!

Post #530533 10th Oct 2019 9:52pm
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