Was swapping out some old swollen nuts for new
22mm wouldn’t fit on some. 23mm was too loose.
Found 7/8th worked a treat.

Then in went the new.
No copper slip. Workshop manual says not to.
But some mechanics I am told think it is a good idea.

Anyone put copper slip on wheel nuts?
If you have a decent torque wrench, does it matter?

I've done the same recently and I read a ton about the grease / no grease arguments.

The majority say no grease. Just torque them up to 140NM dry.

The reasoning is mostly because with grease = over-torquing and stretching the bolts as well as the possibility they come undone.... all sounds fairly unlikely, but like I say most people say no grease.

Also with new nuts you want to check and re-torque them after 30 miles.


.

After seeing a very experienced lorry mechanic do this many years ago, I have always put copper grease on wheel nut/bolt threads and I have never had a problem. I would rather have them greased and the wheels tightened up well, than have rusty threads that don't torque the wheels up properly.

I also put a light smear on the mounting face of the wheels, as this prevents them corroding to the hubs.

The copper serves no purpose in lubricating wheel nuts. It's supposed to be used in applications that burn off the "wet" part of the formula, leaving a smooth copper glide surface. The use of copper grease as an assembly paste is a trend, that the manufacturers of such have used for what it's worth.
Copper between aluminium and steel can increase galvanic corrosion.

If you insist on greasing the bolts/studs, use regular grease, or even better, just a drop of oil on the threads. There are also mounting pastes that does not include active metals. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

I've put copper grease on wheel studs / bolts for over 50years, never use a torque wrench, just tighten them by feel.
Never stretched a stud / bolt or had a wheel come loose in all that time.
Can get my wheels off when I require to do so with ease.
You try getting RangeRover dry wheel nuts off that have been on for a couple of years at the roadside.
Despite the doom mongers I shall continue to apply copper grease as required.
I also strongly recommended that that the hub spigot is given a liberal coating of copper grease before any wheel is fitted to avoid the wheel corroding itself in place. If a wheel does you will need a really big hammer to get it off.

I'm not saying the car's going to melt because you're using copper based anti seize, just that it doesn't serve much purpose as opposed to regular grease. I use it myself when options are not available.

I see there are people selling stainless bolts for the L322, anyone's got long term experience with using these? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

I bought a set of solid nuts off EBay . They are not stainless, but got a galvanised finish which has dulled, but they are still as good as new after 4 years.
I have looked several times to post a link , but can’t find them now.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Would you mind taking a photo of how they look now, after 4 years? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

No problem, except I am away on holiday for next 2 weeks, so when I return.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Galvanic corrosion innit ?

I always slap copper grease on the wheel nut thread and on the back on the wheels touching the hub. I have noticed when its been in for a service my Indy does the same too. Current: FF Westminster money pit

Gone:
RRS 4.2 SC
RRS 3.6 TDV8
FL2 TD4

I’ve been doing it for 50 years because my dad told me to do it never had a problem.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

I researched this a few years back when I had a e46 M3.

I found out that there is a difference between what is known as a dry torque setting and a wet torque setting.

Car wheel nut torque settings are specified in dry torque settings.

If you put copper slip on then you are then creating a wet torque setting.

If your wheel nuts are correctly torqued without any copper slip then there is no reason you need any copper slip.

Putting slip on the huns is however a good idea. Wheels sticking to it corroding to the hub is a nightmare when trying to remove them. Regards

Daz

-------------------------
2011 (61plate) 4.4 tdv8
sumatra black

previous cars

e46 m3
e53 x5

Last edited by dazza1983 on 7th Oct 2019 9:52pm. Edited 1 time in total

nicedayforit wrote:

I've put copper grease on wheel studs / bolts for over 50years, never use a torque wrench, just tighten them by feel.
Never stretched a stud / bolt or had a wheel come loose in all that time.
Can get my wheels off when I require to do so with ease.
You try getting RangeRover dry wheel nuts off that have been on for a couple of years at the roadside.
Despite the doom mongers I shall continue to apply copper grease as required.
I also strongly recommended that that the hub spigot is given a liberal coating of copper grease before any wheel is fitted to avoid the wheel corroding itself in place. If a wheel does you will need a really big hammer to get it off.

It's best to use copper grease on unlike metal surfaces. If the wheels have never been off or put back on without copper grease then loosen the wheel nuts and drive the car a few feet and that'll loosen the wheel. 2017 5.0 Autobiography Supercharged
2005 Merc SL350
2005 Disco HSE 2.7 oil burner

Impact wrenches are the enemy of RR nuts - they cause the caps to become dislodged from the nut underneath & the swelling starts from there.

Copper grease on the back of the wheels but not the nuts for me.

All my wheels come off every 6 months anyway as I run summer & winter tyres - so nothing gets a change to corrode into place too much.